The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The neglected side-wall of the buttress, on sloping holds to a fierce undercutting move and an easier finale. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Stokes 1979.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Nige M | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: This route is very reach dependent. I'm 6 foot and found the stretch between the mid-height sloping breaks desperate, though well protected. The top is somewhat easier but a touch bold. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This route is very reach dependent. I'm 6 foot and found the stretch between the mid-height sloping breaks desperate, though well protected. The top is somewhat easier but a touch bold. |
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Tyler | 4 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Only seconded this but the move is incredibly reachy and I think the top out might provide the odd "moment" | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Only seconded this but the move is incredibly reachy and I think the top out might provide the odd "moment" |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)