60m, 2 pitches. Recently checked and found to be a reasonable proposition at the grade for a very well equipped leader. The protection and belays are mainly boreholes which take friend two's (carry several), pink and red tricams and inverted walnuts (inc no. 10). The peg can be backed up with cams large and small to left and right.
1.36m Start 4m right of St Gregory and scramble easily up and rightwards with virtually no protection to take a belay beneath a black wall.
2. Traverse left and then move up with difficulty and clip the peg on your right(big cam to left and small one to right). Tricky moves over the bulge soon ease. Trend right up shallow grooves to the top taking care with the rock.
Nick White Jerry Grogono Jul/1986
hyperbolic name, dyabolic climb.feels a bit pointless.no protection on loose bottom pitch, dodgy ass belay with a rock 10 and friend just perched in a bore hole- would do sfa if the second came off. top pitch ok but not worth the bother. w.pettet-smith - 26/Jul/08
fell off pitch two colin milton - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/96 with eric milton