Rockfax Description
The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Veale 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

FlavioL1989 07/May Solo O/S
adi bryant 20/Mar Lead O/S
admackie 12/Mar Lead
dr_botnik 12/Mar Lead

Got mackie to throw me up his bouldering pad to put on the ledge. Ethics?

with Mackie, Paul Renwick
sopaz 12/Mar 2nd
with Rob, Mackie
amccann 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Nina
ninastirrup 17/Oct/15 Lead
JEP 07/Jun/15 2nd
MSchobitz 24/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Matthew Ferrier 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 19/Apr/15 TR dog
with Ben S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jan/15 Lead
pete_naylor 18/Jan/15 Lead dnf

Made the climb but could not top out due to the amount of snow/ice on the top. Figured I'd come back to it.

JasonK ??/2015 Lead
drobin ??/2015 Lead
Olli-C 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Matt Harmon 03/Oct/14 Lead dnf

couldn't quite make the span- managed to get the second pocket once with a desperate attempt but ended up back on the ledge

Bernie L 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

First E1 very bouldery

Teappleby 03/Oct/14 2nd

still well hard if you can't span.

amccann 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tom A
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Last 09/Aug/14 Lead

1st half of this. Couldn't fathom the move so finished up Greydon Boddington. Start probably 5b too. Followed by a Lancaster flyby!

with Billy
Teappleby 03/Aug/14 Lead

very long! if you can reach I'm sure it's fine but it was a committing move when you're short.

WillDoyle 17/May/14 Solo
giuly 14/May/14 2nd dog


with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd O/S
drysori 05/May/14 Lead
bede.west 04/May/14 2nd O/S

odd one to grade. did it as the leader went up the hvs. gears good but you would hit the slab which is scary but safe unless you fell off the top. no way E1 for shorties

Lazytraveller 19/Apr/14 Lead G/U

Fell at bouldery start, did the rest clean. Then seconded it clean after Ric.

RichyBOYY 19/Apr/14 Lead β

on jords gear

alooker 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great little route. Take thin slings for the threads... At least top end 5b if not 5c

MarkRoe 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
BRoe 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Niels, Heather O, whitehouse_rhys, Rob L, Mark Roe
DanOsb 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

rescued lynsey with my tallness. dogged still. pencil tick.

with lyns
stemill 28/Sep/13 2nd dnf

Finished up HVS next door. Ridiculously technical move for shorties is probably just a big reach for lanks.

with Mark, Graham
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead
Jim Slater 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
john_ni 22/Sep/13 2nd
Gudge 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

2 pockets as only holds & runners - weird but awesome! Found crux very reachy - 5c? Didn't bother trying to faff around threading top pocket and just went for top.

with Helen B
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
climberchristy 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Finally led it clean. Still really hard for the short and really hard to thread the final pocket without stuffing it up as a handhold. At least 5c.

with Ben Cole
RM199 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Tamati 13/Apr/13 2nd
PeteWilson 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Matt, Andrew Graham
Hillson 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson
dominic lee 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Humm1985 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf
JamieSparkes 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant little micro route, definitely 5c to get between the pockets. Take thin slings and something to pull at them with, though at least the tricky thread is the lower one!

with CCJohnD
ColinD 14/Oct/12 Lead dog

Faffed for ages on second pocket threading cord, slipped out just as I threaded it through. I should of used smaller tat and key to hook... got back on and finished it fine, grrr.

freemanTom 23/Sep/12 2nd

6a to link the pockets for the short I reckon, fun route.

with Kyle Rance
georgedunton 16/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd rpt
CharlieMack 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Bit of a tricky move for the short, short-lived, but enjoyable

with Jen Maxfield
Jake Young 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jem
Bry 03/Sep/12 2nd
harold walmsley 28/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Colin Struthers
pete1993 26/Aug/12 2nd
with Nick
Nick1812P 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Pete
Andy Hardy 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
will_benfold 15/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Could not find a way up the upper half; finished up Greydon Boddington instead.

with Cameron
cameron_hall 15/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Took a rest trying to get up the first bit, and then couldn't find a good way of reaching between the pockets and doing the top.

Haydn Jones 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ed morris 19/Jun/12 2nd

One fall messing up the crux.

deacondeacon 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
MartinWilliams87 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 12/May/12 Lead dog

Very bouldery. Also run out at the end unless you want to hang around and place gear in the second pocket.

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 05/May/12 2nd
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Woodiee 05/May/12 2nd O/S

one for those with baboon arms ! glad i was seconding this one - foot slipped at the crux but held it on the pocket - then found an intermediate crimp, pretty cool route !!

kenneM ?/May/12 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Gambit 23/Mar/12 2nd
with Barney
mark20 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
ianjfsutcliffe 19/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with Kenny
ianjfsutcliffe 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 06/Nov/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
The Big Sender 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S

a wee bouldery bastard

tradguy 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Graeme Hammond 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

thought the reachy direct start was the crux (5c). reach to get the 2nd pocket wasn't to hard if you move your feet up (lay-backing/smearing)! My threaded nut in the 2nd was hard to place and took up half the hold. Not as good as i expected it. One to do again to see if it is better 2nd time round??

with Gavin Singleton, Matt Fennelow
max_chan 30/Jun/11 2nd
pmurdy 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Jonny Reay
JRae 11/Jun/11 Lead

Fun little route. Felt like the top thread might blow with a fall though.

with Paul M
Hidden 10/May/11 2nd rpt
AMarchant 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Cracking route

ajc 24/Apr/11 TR RP
Jonathan Hall 17/Apr/11 2nd

Bloody reach!

disturbed_one51 17/Apr/11 Lead
with Wee man
Gustav 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with James H
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Peakology 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lovely ledge to look at the next bit. Managed to shout 'TAKE' and nearly come off when I didn't even have a first piece in. Gave Cat a moment of confusion as to what she was supposed to do..

with cat
Chalky Cat 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Lovely route on second - a tentative reach and smear for the top pocket and topout which was fine on a rope.

with Dom
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd β
Gustav 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Owen, Matt G
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Cake 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Jon, Matt
Tim_C7 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S

My first E1, bit of a cheat given im 6'3" and able to reach between the holds.

with Kevin Kilroy
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andy S
Flash29 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
Rob84 17/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Flash
ojp 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

First E1. Bottom bit took a while to work out. Decided to press on without the 2nd thread for a nice run out. Good moves quite tough! enjoyed it

with Dave
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 16/Oct/10 2nd β

Tried the lead in the rain, much too slippy to top out came back and seconded no problem

Dave Foster 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Si's first E1.

with Si
DKaye 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Got up the start easily, got the thread, then for the life of me could not reach the pocket by mantling. Boo. Finished up the HVS to the left. Tall second reached from a ledge a foot below where I was stood.

with Duncan MacNeil
willsm11 30/Aug/10 Lead

First E1. Thought it was Soft but dont have much to compare to.

with Twisty
Twisty 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
sce8 01/Aug/10 TR
with John Sergeant
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 30/May/10 2nd O/S

Good stuff.

with Todd, Tom, Ivan
g_quaglia 23/Apr/10 Lead dnf

made just past 2nd pocket but ended up eating slab. nice long walk back to car with ruptured tendons in ankle. good times

highrepute 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
steveb2006 09/Apr/10 Lead
with David Andrew
Hidden 20/Mar/10 Lead β
swoosh 11/Mar/10 Lead
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
BeccaSnowden 31/Oct/09 2nd dog

Long reach is compulsory

with Tom
thomasadixon 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Tough move to get the second pocket, definately at least 5c (although a long span would probably make it 5a!).

Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
mic_b 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tom.e 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 16/Aug/09 Lead
minaturechris 08/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Could not reach the pockets and never likely to until I can pull up on pebbles. Not one for the short! Finished on Greydon Boddington (HVS 5B) to the left.

with Barra
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/09 2nd O/S
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S

Felt a little committing to solo, would've probably felt better if it wasn't 25 degrees at the time too.

Twisty 15/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Black ice on the top out- perfect friction.

with Phil Baxter
dicky79 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Pete
towdman 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Armitage
Brown 18/Apr/07 Solo O/S
with John
chiverstom 21/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Katherine
cia05js 18/Feb/07 2nd
with David Moir
dmoir 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with James Sexton
dannyboy83 18/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Ben Harper 18/Feb/07 Lead
Lewis Stewart ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Aston Mountineering
Hidden 19/Dec/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Dec/06 Lead
alaan 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Definately 5c- very reachy but a lovely move for one of my stature. Threading the top pocket was a little fiddly...

A Crook 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

5c for me. Massive rock up on an insipid little edge, thread runners where fun.

with Duncan Hassell
Ben1983 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
maybe_si 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with danger john
jchenoweth 15/Jul/06 2nd dog
Nicos 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2006 -
petellis ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/05 2nd dog
Rob Davies 26/Jun/05 Lead dnf

Couldn't stretch far enough

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 31/May/05 2nd
Alex Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S

sling in the lower pockets. i think this sould get e2 6a i did a cut looe move with just a toe hook to get the other pockets after much deliberation powerful and then the top out was not so easy

with christov ramsden
Shad ?/May/05 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

tried to solo this. didn't facy it so got rope chucked up to ledge

with Chris Ramsden
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2005 Lead O/S
mikeski ??/2005 2nd
cem 15/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 25/Oct/03 Lead O/S

In the rain.

Hidden 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 18/Mar/00 Lead rpt
with jon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 23/Mar/95 Lead
with Martin Veale
Hidden 24/Aug/80 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DeanD, puppythedog, adamre12, Hidden, Hidden, crag_hopper_Jay, Sam Marks, ajc, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 56
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set