Derbyshire > Bamford Edge >
Fizz* E1 5b

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[Myself making the crux stretch to the second pocket (unfortunately obscured by heather)on Fizz (E1 5c), 3 kb]8m. The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Veale 1980

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Photo: Myself making the crux stretch to the second pocket (unfortunately obscured by heather)on Fizz (E1 5c) © PeteWilson
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This climb is in 145 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Great little route. Take thin slings for the threads... At least top end 5b if not 5c
alooker - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Heather Osborne

BRoe - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Niels, Heather O, whitehouse_rhys, Rob L, Mark Roe

rescued lynsey with my tallness. dogged still. pencil tick.
DanOsb - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with lyns

Finished up HVS next door. Ridiculously technical move for shorties is probably just a big reach for lanks.
stemill - 2nd dnf - 28/Sep/13 with Mark, Graham

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/13

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/13 with James

john_ni - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with James Lismore (PCC), Jim Slater (PCC)

2 pockets as only holds & runners - weird but awesome! Found crux very reachy - 5c? Didn't bother trying to faff around threading top pocket and just went for top.
Gudge - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13 with Helen B

Jams - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13

Finally led it clean. Still really hard for the short and really hard to thread the final pocket without stuffing it up as a handhold. At least 5c.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Ben Cole

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13

Tamati - 2nd - 13/Apr/13

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Matt, Andrew Graham

Hillson - 2nd - 17/Feb/13 with Andrew Graham, Pete Wilson

dominic lee - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/12 with nathan lee

Humm1985 - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/12 with Pete Naylor

Brilliant little micro route, definitely 5c to get between the pockets. Take thin slings and something to pull at them with, though at least the tricky thread is the lower one!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with CCJohnD

Faffed for ages on second pocket threading cord, slipped out just as I threaded it through. I should of used smaller tat and key to hook... got back on and finished it fine, grrr.
ColinD - Lead dog - 14/Oct/12

6a to link the pockets for the short I reckon, fun route.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd - 23/Sep/12 with Kyle Rance

georgedunton - Lead RP - 16/Sep/12 with tom folley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/12

Bit of a tricky move for the short, short-lived, but enjoyable
CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Jen Maxfield

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Jem

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/12

harold walmsley - TR rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Colin Struthers

pete1993 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Pete

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Could not find a way up the upper half; finished up Greydon Boddington instead.
will_benfold - Lead dnf - 15/Jul/12 with Cameron

Took a rest trying to get up the first bit, and then couldn't find a good way of reaching between the pockets and doing the top.
cameron_hall - 2nd dnf - 15/Jul/12 with Will Benfold

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with andy gardner, deacon, ed morris

One fall messing up the crux.
Ed morris - 2nd - 19/Jun/12 with haydn

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Richard Williams

Very bouldery. Also run out at the end unless you want to hang around and place gear in the second pocket.
jonleighton - Lead dog - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 05/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

one for those with baboon arms ! glad i was seconding this one - foot slipped at the crux but held it on the pocket - then found an intermediate crimp, pretty cool route !!
Woodiee - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12 with oliwarlow

kenneM - Lead - May/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12

Gambit - 2nd - 23/Mar/12 with Barney

mark20 - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

ianjfsutcliffe - 2nd rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Kenny

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd dnf - 06/Nov/11 with ianjfsutcliffe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11

The Big Sender - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Fergus Cuthill

a wee bouldery bastard
allyrocke - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Tom Eadington

tradguy - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with John Mitchener

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Jul/11

thought the reachy direct start was the crux (5c). reach to get the 2nd pocket wasn't to hard if you move your feet up (lay-backing/smearing)! My threaded nut in the 2nd was hard to place and took up half the hold. Not as good as i expected it. One to do again to see if it is better 2nd time round??
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Gavin, Matt Fennelow

pmurdy - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Jonny Reay

Fun little route. Felt like the top thread might blow with a fall though.
JRae - Lead - 11/Jun/11 with Paul M

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/May/11

Cracking route
AMarchant - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Ally Hurst

ajc - TR RP - 24/Apr/11

Bloody reach!
Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 17/Apr/11 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with Wee man

Gustav - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/11 with James H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/11

Lovely ledge to look at the next bit. Managed to shout 'TAKE' and nearly come off when I didn't even have a first piece in. Gave Cat a moment of confusion as to what she was supposed to do..
Peakology - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with cat

Lovely route on second - a tentative reach and smear for the top pocket and topout which was fine on a rope.
Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Dom

Hidden - 2nd β - 19/Mar/11

Gustav - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Owen, Matt G

Didn't quite make the stretch properly.
LakesWinter - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11 with gustav, Cake

Cake - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Jon, Matt

My first E1, bit of a cheat given im 6'3" and able to reach between the holds.
Tim_C7 - Lead O/S - Jan/11 with Kevin Kilroy

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2011 with Andy S

Flash29 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Rob

Rob84 - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/10 with Flash

First E1. Bottom bit took a while to work out. Decided to press on without the 2nd thread for a nice run out. Good moves quite tough! enjoyed it
ojp - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Tried the lead in the rain, much too slippy to top out came back and seconded no problem
samsimpson - 2nd β - 16/Oct/10 with Ally Hurst

Si's first E1.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Si

Got up the start easily, got the thread, then for the life of me could not reach the pocket by mantling. Boo. Finished up the HVS to the left. Tall second reached from a ledge a foot below where I was stood.
DKaye - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/10 with Duncan MacNeil

First E1. Thought it was Soft but dont have much to compare to.
willsm11 - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Twisty

Twisty - 2nd rpt - 30/Aug/10 with Will Smith

sce8 - TR - 01/Aug/10 with John Sergeant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

Good stuff.
Tez29 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Todd, Tom, Ivan

made just past 2nd pocket but ended up eating slab. nice long walk back to car with ruptured tendons in ankle. good times
g_quaglia - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/10

highrepute - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/10

Gav A - Lead β - 20/Mar/10 with Tom Harvey

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2010

Long reach is compulsory
BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 31/Oct/09 with Tom

Tough move to get the second pocket, definately at least 5c (although a long span would probably make it 5a!).
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

tom.e - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/09

Coel Hellier - Lead - 16/Aug/09

Could not reach the pockets and never likely to until I can pull up on pebbles. Not one for the short! Finished on Greydon Boddington (HVS 5B) to the left.
minaturechris - 2nd dnf - 08/Aug/09 with Barra

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09

metal arms - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/09

chris sm - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Felt a little committing to solo, would've probably felt better if it wasn't 25 degrees at the time too.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/08

Black ice on the top out- perfect friction.
Twisty - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/07 with Phil Baxter

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Pete

towdman - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Adam Armitage

Brown - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/07 with John

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/07 with Katherine

cia05js - 2nd - 18/Feb/07 with David Moir

dmoir - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07 with James Sexton

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Ben Harper

Ben Harper - Lead - 18/Feb/07 with Dan Barbour

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 2007 with Aston Mountineering

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Dec/06

Hidden - Lead - Dec/06

Definately 5c- very reachy but a lovely move for one of my stature. Threading the top pocket was a little fiddly...
alaan - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06

5c for me. Massive rock up on an insipid little edge, thread runners where fun.
A Crook - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Duncan Hassell

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with danger john

jchenoweth - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/06 with maybe_si

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/06 with rich howels

sdht - 2006

petellis - Lead O/S - Dec/05

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Nov/05

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/05

sling in the lower pockets. i think this sould get e2 6a i did a cut looe move with just a toe hook to get the other pockets after much deliberation powerful and then the top out was not so easy
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - May/05 with christov ramsden

Shad - 2nd - May/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/05

tried to solo this. didn't facy it so demanded that a harness, rope, sling & crab were thrown up to me on the ledge. got duely sorted, threaded the pockets and led it. good fun. 1st route at bamford
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 2005 with Chris Ramsden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

cem - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/04 with Graham Dolman

In the rain.
Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/03

Easy to second, but Thea had a desperate time leading it - somehow managing to thread both pockets (the only gear) while still hanging on. Impressive!
Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Mar/02 with Thea Williams

Hidden - 2002

Roget - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/00 with jon

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/97

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/95 with Martin Veale

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, crag_hopper_Jay, Sam Marks, Hidden, ajc, RM199

Total votes cast 152
hard E20 of 50
E20 of 50
easy E21 of 50
hard E18 of 50
E138 of 50
easy E13 of 50
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS0 of 50
easy HVS0 of 50
hard 5c0 of 54
5c1 of 54
easy 5c41 of 54
hard 5b4 of 54
5b8 of 54
easy 5b0 of 54
hard 5a0 of 54
5a0 of 54
easy 5a0 of 54
3 Stars1 of 48
2 Stars29 of 48
1 Star13 of 48
0 Stars4 of 48
Bag of .....1 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 145 (3.4%)
Lead85 of 145 (58.6%)
Followed50 of 145 (34.5%)
Toproped3 of 145 (2.1%)
Unknown2 of 145 (1.4%)

'Climbed'32 of 145 (22.1%)
clean O/S81 of 145 (55.9%)
clean β3 of 145 (2.1%)
clean rpt9 of 145 (6.2%)
clean RP2 of 145 (1.4%)
dogged8 of 145 (5.5%)
dnf10 of 145 (6.9%)