Rockfax Description
The deep slanting cleft to a taxing exit. A perverse affair. A steep direct start is 4c and misses out on some of the fun. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Layback up the corner crack or thrutch up the deep chimney to a cramped ledge then work out a way to the top.

FA. Dick Brown early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Hidden 26/Jun Solo O/S
FlavioL1989 10/Apr Solo O/S
Bloke on a Rope 05/Oct/14 Solo O/S

Very nearly blew the topout on this! Getting a bit bla'se after soloing 3 E3's.

John Bish 04/Oct/14 Solo
with James Martin
andyclimber 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
TomCooksey 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Made a complete meal of this, got scarred and wedged myself. Awkward move out round and over the top was probably the most scared I've been on a lead!

Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Angeline 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

It looked easy until I had to leave the comfy cave and go around the top. It actually was easy, but it did mess with my head.

with Simon
Emma Reynolds 30/Jul/14 Solo O/S
AshBash 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 15/Apr/14 Lead dnf

didn't fancy the left hand side and fell off the right hand crack

with Tom
yarrow 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Becky P
vinni 15/Jun/13 Solo O/S
with James
blackholesun 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
giuly 19/May/13 2nd
with Ben Abell, Neil Shephard
sparkass 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
deacondeacon 04/Jun/12 Solo
michaelmurray 26/May/12 2nd

Interesting route!

with Ray Birch
Alex Thompson 12/May/12 Solo β

Entertaining after watching others struggle.

Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
Daniel Heath 30/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Contemplated calling for help sat below the topout. Worked it out in the end.

gavster2405 ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
65m moderate millington 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

rob got stuck and had to back off :)

Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead
CharlieC 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tarryn
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Solo O/S
john_ni 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Richard Payne
matt0759 16/Apr/11 Solo
sylwia ??/2011 Lead

A squeeze for anyone.

ryansb90 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Hall
gingerdave13 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with stefan
DKaye 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Horrid and unenjoyable! Quite enjoyed watching the party ahead of us trying to rescue a wayward hex from the depths of the crack.

with Duncan MacNeil
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
KarlH 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

A real struggle. Sadistic fun!

Hidden 05/Aug/10 Solo O/S
simeclimb68 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Rhythm24 31/May/10 Solo RP
joe.91 17/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Oceanic ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
altairego 09/Jun/09 2nd
with Jim and Paul
howlingbaboon 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First climbed up the inside of the chimmney looking for a squeezy through route (there isn't one however). Tried to climb the chimmney crack on the outside but got stuck. Returned up the inside of the chimney and traversed out along the ledge to the interresting finish. Provided excellent entertainment all round during a shower.

with Pippa and Graeme
howlingbaboon 15/Apr/09 Solo O/S
pippa_g 15/Apr/09 2nd O/S

interesting if a little slimy!

with howlingbaboon/graeme
MJP 11/Apr/09 Lead dnf
charley 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Lea, MarkB
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Brown 17/Jan/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
Hidden ??/2009 -
popebenedictus 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
with Soloed
mullermn 16/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Interesting. Not for the lardy.

with Paul
Sankey 06/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Andy E
andyebbens 06/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve E
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
liamnkaz 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Richard L 10/May/08 Lead O/S
idiotproof (Buxton MC) ??/2008 -

Traditional punishing of the fat but actually quite good fun. Had to de-gear and de-helmet for the squeeze out. One of those routes where you think modern gear hasn't made an arse of difference

dfbpdave 16/Dec/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
mol 03/Nov/07 Lead
with Fiona Bangs
Grimbough 03/Nov/07 Solo
Alfredo ?/Oct/07 Solo
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
whiting.jp 15/Sep/07 2nd

I was impressed that James lead this without significant difficulty, it felt awkward as hell to me.

with jamesca
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Solo
Chris Ellis 08/Sep/07 Lead
with Roger Brown
Abu777 11/Aug/07 Lead dog

Very messy climb, but great fun. Tried numerous times to avoid going up into the void by trying to climb up the face, but couldn't do it (think that would be off-route anyway). Eventually forced my way up the narrowing chimney and got stuck before straining through the narrowest point and twisting out onto the face. Worth it for the sense of relief when emerging from the darkness! Dad didn't attempt the second - his girth predicted insurmountable difficulty!

Hidden 14/Apr/07 Solo O/S
chrissloan84 ?/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rjukan ?/Oct/06 Solo
Alaric 18/Jul/06 Lead dog

1 rest :-( Thrutchy Neil hated the climb so much I thought he was going to punch me on arriving at the top.

with Neil
loonyclimber 16/Jul/06 Solo
with Ian
Wilbur 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
simonw1 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Allan Watson
victim of mathematics 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Cornish Merlin 08/Jun/06 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S
earlsdonwhu ??/2006 -

Best avoided unless you are an anorexic dwarf covered in lard.

Nicos 24/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
rob k 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with A Parks
Hidden 28/Mar/05 Solo
Tom V ??/1985 -
mikej 27/Dec/69 Solo
with Dave Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexCib, Hidden, SuperLee1985, Hidden, Hidden
High HS
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High S
Mid S
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High HVD
Votes cast 7
High 4b
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High 4a
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High 3c
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Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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