Low in the grade, though the loss of a hold has made it even harder for the short than it used to be. The face right of the arete has hard moves above the roof to the ear. Escape right below the roofs or throw yourself at the next offering. © Rockfax
FA. John Gosling 1971
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Neal Jobling||03/Oct||Lead G/U||
First E2 lead. Got pumped at the roof so lowered off and led clean 2nd go.
Mike, Ryan Baird
Rob made it look easy.Wonder how long the flaky rock around crux will last.
Fell. Had a little pump going in and wasn't strong enough to pull it off. Next time if I make it back to Bamford
Desperate climbing in the rain great adventure feeling at the top traverse section.
Puzzling crux. Lovely route. An unlikely ascent in the conditions - rain soaking the route and then blustery wind drying it in seconds, freezing fingers, a bit gloomy etc... very grateful to Simon for retrieving the gear on second despite even gloomier conditions, even colder fingers etc..!
Slipped off, just a bit too short! Charley made it look easy, damn his tallness!
Tricky/reachy moves getting past the overlap but felt very soft for E2. Was pretty happy with the gear behind the flakes.
|Bernie L||19/Apr||Lead G/U||
Second go after not getting the good part of the flake first time on a long reach.
Reach needed a 2nd attempt at a different angle but no rest.
|Tala M||18/Apr||2nd dog||
Couldn't make the reach, 2 inches off and not much else to pull on.
Finally!! Was trying it completely the wrong way!
|Alex the Alex||02/Nov/14||Lead β||
On Rog's gear.
Hard for the short! Great climbing though.
Second go after falling trying to reverse from midish crux, still felt pretty hard!!
sacked off as couldn't reach the hold properly in the incoming rain
|Nick Wallis||05/Oct/14||2nd dog||
Long reach on crux
So creaky, the route that is not me
This has got seriously harder so must have lost a hold, from obvious rock scar. Hard 5c or 6a now. One move only and still very well protected but a shame it is so unbalanced now.
What a shame this route was damaged. I'm bemused by comments below. It's a very hard move, 6a in my opinion. Clearly very reach dependent.
Felt like a long way to a not very good hold. Next time.
|Calum Wadsworth||03/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Quite nice, not too bad if your lanky like me...
|Rich Malcolm||02/Aug/14||Lead β|
|Guy Atkinson||20/Jul/14||2nd dnf||
Couldn't do the move, i'm rubbish at coming up from overhangs, even once I got my hands on the good holds I couldn't pull onto the face.
|Jim Slater||03/Jul/14||Lead rpt||
didn't think it was soft. gear placements are good but in suspect flakes.
|Alex Thompson||22/Jun/14||Lead dnf||
Downclimbed off the crux move, let Jam take the tick. Save it for another day.
Jam, Sam Carey
|Lawrence Beesley-Peck||08/Jun/14||Lead O/S|
|Anne Gumbley||05/May/14||2nd dog|
|Gabe Oliver||04/May/14||Lead O/S||
First grit E2. Big thumbs up
Take 2, still can't do the move. Bogey route
Failed on crux of this a year ago on cold day. Glad to get it today when I could feel my fingers!! The crux is a very long reach. The rest is easy!!
|David Kay||10/Apr/14||Lead rpt||
Went up to give Jumping Jack Longland a go, but after one failed excursion over the roof my arms were giving up so I bailed on the normal finish to this route.
|Tim Rodgers||29/Mar/14||Lead dnf|
|nick ferro||22/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
one desperate move sandwiched in a 2 star hvs
Undercut. Get feet high. Reach with right hand, then left laying away slightly. Wouldn't be a bad E2 to lead; well protected crux move.
James Lawson, Max Pendleton
Tried to lead after seconding, but couldn't do the crux, then seconded it again quite easily. Next time!
Ground up. Easy when you get it right.
|Louise Hall||09/Jun/13||2nd dog||
Cheated the crux... one day.
|Jimbo C||13/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
First E2 lead. The moves felt like solid 5c but the crux is short-lived and well protected with a good rest at either end. probably puts it at the lower end of E2, but no push over.
|Will Hunt||03/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
|kate tarrant||?/Mar/13||2nd dog|
|Mike Hegarty||16/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
|Neil D||02/Feb/13||Lead dnf||
Fell once on the crux, then clean, great route
Quite tough, difficult to get the flake in the right way.
deacon, Jon Stewart
|David Kay||14/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
|Haydn Jones||19/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
|Ed morris||19/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
|Oliver Houston||12/May/12||Lead β||
Had some recommendations... Safe crux, definitely a soft one for the tall.
awesomely cool, bit too well protected for E2, but cool all the same !!
|Richard P Coates||04/May/12||2nd dnf|
With lower gear in place
|Richard P Coates||06/Nov/11||2nd dnf|
rested between crux attempts
Desperate reach to get established above the roof!
|henry peter jenkins||03/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
Very fun, climbing felt safe with one hard move above a nest of bomber gear. .....
Really nice route but seems very low in the grade. Only one tough move which is very well protected.
Paul Jones, David Proctor
|Jake Young||04/May/11||2nd dog|
power! wins over technique. although I could have made it easier for myself. a brilliant climb throughout, low in the grade but high in quality.
|crazy pierre||17/Apr/11||2nd O/S|
Made the wrong decision to climb this at the end of the day. Rested after trying the under-cling several tries.
Thwarted by freezing fingers and feeling sick. cleared the gear and absailed off the bush.
Rob Middleton, Sam Stringer
1 fall. Should have done it clean but rushed it first time.
paul jones, tom ireson
|tim newton||18/Sep/10||Lead dog||
fell off the crux the first time. found it quite easy the second time.
|brian watson||05/Sep/10||2nd dnf||
On Chungs gear. All out jug fest. Brilliant climb
|Graeme Hammond||01/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
Nat, Paul Runnif
|Andy Moles||23/Apr/10||Lead β||
Ferdia led initially but couldn't quite get the crux so came down and I led on through.
|Kyle Rance||17/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
First E2, really nice route, definitly recommend it.
After leading it I then seconded it, Ste couldn't make crux move.
Failed to commit first time, too tired second. A couple of good falls. Easy E2, one to come back to...
|Andy Peak 1||06/Mar/10||Lead|
Fell on the crux, got it 2nd go. My first E2.
|Cragrat Rich||05/Dec/09||Lead O/S||
Much faffing and wrming of hands pre crux, up and down a bit, then went for it. I'm not sure about this being easy E2. It required much faith in marginal finger holds (inc during foothold loss) followed by deep breathing and intense staying power to reach sanctuary. Very fulfilling experience, loved it!
|Simon Davenport||15/Nov/09||Lead dnf||
Can do - didn't have the balls!
Brian and Dave
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||18/Oct/09||Lead|
|david morse||12/Sep/09||2nd O/S||
mikey em BB andy G anna x2
Joe went up and backed off. I nearly had it, but didn't commit. Then Joe went again, fell a few times then got it. I seconded cleanly.
|Si dH||25/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
The reach is harder than it would presumably have been had the broken flake still been there - you have to go up to the hold out left which is 3 or 4 inches further - but I could still just about reach at 5ft11 with short arms. You cant do it now (at least not unless youre much stronger than me on crappy sandy sidepulls) in the way the guy is doing it in the old photo on here. Felt right at 5c.
|London Luke||?/Jul/09||Lead O/S|
Fell, pulled the ropes and did it clean. That's a *long* reach to a not good hold! Easy other than that though.
Slab at the bottom is relatively easy, some good gear in the break, then a huge reach. Found a different way from the humongous span of Mike, moved slightly further, got a decent undercut with right hand, then swing up and left to the almost invisible but good hold, feet up and get other hand on the good flake. I can imagine it being much easier when the ear was there! Finish wasn't too bad, will definitely lead this sometime.
Went up this with tom again soon after.
got the crux second time
Apparently 'ear' hold came off in June 2007 leaving a smaller hold.
|Jim Slater||25/May/09||2nd O/S||
|chris wyatt||25/May/09||Lead O/S||
If the ear came off, it left a positive crimp. Good route, easy for E2 probably E1
|Dave Foster||25/Apr/09||Lead rpt||
Left foot slipped on crux. Pulled ropes and lead clean second go. Annoyed as it's far easier than Nemmes Pas Harry which went fine.
the "ear" move has become harder as the lower flake has snapped off! - more of a lay away crimp for the short (like me) before the security of the upper flake can be gained
|keith leonard||??/2009||Lead dog|
|chris sm||23/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
E1 5b and then only for a couple of moves. Nice route though. The crucial small flake above the roof seems to have been larger in the past!
|Owen W-G||07/Oct/07||Lead O/S||
Pleasant well-pro E1.
|Alex Mason||08/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
tricky move over bulge, attempted the roof to find hardly any solid rock.
|Tony Little||17/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
|Daniel Armitage||16/Jun/07||Lead O/S|
|craig d||02/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
Overgraded, should be E1 5B
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||28/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|adam carless||14/Apr/07||2nd O/S||
Actually seconded twice, once with Nick and once with James. The long move doesn't get any easier second time round.
|Luke Brooks||26/Mar/07||Lead O/S||
It's a long way for shorties!
clean enough climb, but having only really led v-diffs out door, id have tae say it was flamin pumpy
|Mark Riley||05/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
|Joe Costello||11/Jul/06||Lead O/S||
|Ram MkiV||29/Jun/06||Lead O/S||
Tom anfd Mike
Geoff, Frances Taylor
|Rich Malcolm||31/May/06||Lead O/S||
Rick Asher, Mick Brohan
Had seconded Dan 10/04/06
|dan gibson||10/Apr/06||Lead O/S||
my first e2
First E2 :o)
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2000||-|
My first E1, turned out to be E2 :)
|Rich Kirby||15/Feb/98||Lead O/S|
|Chris Reid||07/Feb/93||Lead O/S||