Rockfax Description
Low in the grade, though the loss of a hold has made it even harder for the short than it used to be. The face right of the arete has hard moves above the roof to the ear. Escape right below the roofs or throw yourself at the next offering. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

amccann 17/Oct Lead O/S
with Nina
jamesb101 17/Oct Lead RP
with lucy
Stroppy 17/Oct Lead O/S
with James Bevan
ninastirrup 17/Oct 2nd dnf
Neal Jobling 03/Oct Lead G/U
with Antonio
ralphio 25/Sep Lead G/U

First E2 lead. Got pumped at the roof so lowered off and led clean 2nd go.

with Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 25/Sep 2nd
with Ralph
kleinej 13/Sep 2nd dnf
with Vince
ned_85 13/Sep Lead
with Mike, Ryan Baird
No? Yes! 12/Sep 2nd

Rob made it look easy.Wonder how long the flaky rock around crux will last.

Alkis 30/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug Lead dnf
RosePearson 09/Aug Lead dnf

Fell. Had a little pump going in and wasn't strong enough to pull it off. Next time if I make it back to Bamford

with Veronica
Maken 01/Aug 2nd O/S

Desperate climbing in the rain great adventure feeling at the top traverse section.

Hidden 11/Jun 2nd
chrishedgehog 28/May Lead O/S

Puzzling crux. Lovely route. An unlikely ascent in the conditions - rain soaking the route and then blustery wind drying it in seconds, freezing fingers, a bit gloomy etc... very grateful to Simon for retrieving the gear on second despite even gloomier conditions, even colder fingers etc..!

with Simon, Graham
PLM 16/May Lead β
with Ruairi
Jackwd 10/May 2nd dog

Slipped off, just a bit too short! Charley made it look easy, damn his tallness!

charley 10/May Lead O/S

Tricky/reachy moves getting past the overlap but felt very soft for E2. Was pretty happy with the gear behind the flakes.

with JackD
Bernie L 19/Apr Lead G/U

Second go after not getting the good part of the flake first time on a long reach.

cdpuk 19/Apr 2nd O/S

Reach needed a 2nd attempt at a different angle but no rest.

Hidden 19/Apr 2nd dog
Tala M 18/Apr 2nd dog

Couldn't make the reach, 2 inches off and not much else to pull on.

mjeffery 16/Apr Lead G/U
with Steve
Mr Wild 05/Apr 2nd
RKirke 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Alex T
lena.drapella 02/Nov/14 2nd dog
with Niels
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 02/Nov/14 Lead G/U

Finally!! Was trying it completely the wrong way!

Alex the Alex 02/Nov/14 Lead β

On Rog's gear.

with Rog
Jack93 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
spidermonkey09 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Hard for the short! Great climbing though.

shaunhumphreys 22/Oct/14 Lead G/U

Second go after falling trying to reverse from midish crux, still felt pretty hard!!

benkelsey 22/Oct/14 Lead dnf

sacked off as couldn't reach the hold properly in the incoming rain

with rory wadsworth
Nick1812P 22/Oct/14 Lead β

pre-placed gear.

John Bish 18/Oct/14 2nd
with James Martin
Nick Wallis 05/Oct/14 2nd dog

Long reach on crux

with Dave Hollinger
masonwoods101 28/Sep/14 Lead β
danjimwill 28/Sep/14 -
Gambit 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt

So creaky, the route that is not me

tatz45 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Lisa Morgan
simon1965 22/Sep/14 2nd

This has got seriously harder so must have lost a hold, from obvious rock scar. Hard 5c or 6a now. One move only and still very well protected but a shame it is so unbalanced now.

with James
Stig 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S

What a shame this route was damaged. I'm bemused by comments below. It's a very hard move, 6a in my opinion. Clearly very reach dependent.

Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd dnf
MYox 30/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Felt like a long way to a not very good hold. Next time.

with Barbara
Calum Wadsworth 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Quite nice, not too bad if your lanky like me...

with Emma
Rich Malcolm 02/Aug/14 Lead β
Guy Atkinson 20/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the move, i'm rubbish at coming up from overhangs, even once I got my hands on the good holds I couldn't pull onto the face.

with Tom Butterworth
Jim Slater 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Katie Mouritz
theomoore 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

didn't think it was soft. gear placements are good but in suspect flakes.

with Roisin
Jam_sandwich 22/Jun/14 Lead β
Alex Thompson 22/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Downclimbed off the crux move, let Jam take the tick. Save it for another day.

with Jam, Mr SCarey
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lawrence Beesley-Peck 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
PeteWilson 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dave
Anne Gumbley 05/May/14 2nd dog
markfairbank 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 04/May/14 Lead O/S

First grit E2. Big thumbs up

ashtond6 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Take 2, still can't do the move. Bogey route

Hidden 03/May/14 Lead β
climberchristy 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Failed on crux of this a year ago on cold day. Glad to get it today when I could feel my fingers!! The crux is a very long reach. The rest is easy!!

with Ben Cole
David Kay 10/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Went up to give Jumping Jack Longland a go, but after one failed excursion over the roof my arms were giving up so I bailed on the normal finish to this route.

Tim Rodgers 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
marconi 17/Dec/13 2nd
admackie 17/Dec/13 -
with mark
MarkRoe 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Smithy
Oo 06/Oct/13 2nd dnf
mksmith35 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
nick ferro 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Oli Birkill
rurp 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

one desperate move sandwiched in a 2 star hvs

with bill farmer
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S 08/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
Gudge 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tim_C7 ?/Aug/13 Lead
with Toby D
Brown 30/Jul/13 2nd
with James T
claregardiner 10/Jul/13 Lead
i.fish2000 07/Jul/13 Lead dnf
MikeLeeds 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Clark
Roberttaylor 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Undercut. Get feet high. Reach with right hand, then left laying away slightly. Wouldn't be a bad E2 to lead; well protected crux move.

with James Lawson, Max Pendleton
Kirill 16/Jun/13 2nd

Tried to lead after seconding, but couldn't do the crux, then seconded it again quite easily. Next time!

cem 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
ig248 16/Jun/13 Lead
with Kirill
EeFu 16/Jun/13 2nd dnf
Nathanie1 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

Ground up. Easy when you get it right.

Louise Hall 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Cheated the crux... one day.

Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Marq 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead rpt
Jonathan Hall 19/May/13 2nd
mhawk 16/May/13 TR O/S
Jimbo C 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

First E2 lead. The moves felt like solid 5c but the crux is short-lived and well protected with a good rest at either end. probably puts it at the lower end of E2, but no push over.

with Chris
Tamati ?/Apr/13 2nd
Will Hunt 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S


Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
Maxim2023 ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
Mike Hegarty 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Dave
Neil D 02/Feb/13 Lead dnf
with Nadeem Rahim
maria85 21/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Will
riddle 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Elliot
sopaz 07/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd rpt
claregardiner 01/Sep/12 Lead

Fell once on the crux, then clean, great route

Jethro ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Helen Marsden, Simon Lindley, Mark Watkins, Richard Sharpe, Adam Lindley
James Oswald 27/Jul/12 2nd

Quite tough, difficult to get the flake in the right way.

with deacon, Jon Stewart
jwpil 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mel Michon
Hidden 14/Jul/12 2nd
Haydn Jones 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ed morris 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
pmurdy 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mike W
mwatson 18/May/12 2nd O/S
Simon_Letman 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 12/May/12 Lead β

Had some recommendations... Safe crux, definitely a soft one for the tall.

Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Woodiee 05/May/12 2nd O/S

awesomely cool, bit too well protected for E2, but cool all the same !!

Richard P Coates 04/May/12 2nd dnf
stuaart 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Neil Redgrave
Gambit 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

With lower gear in place

with Barney
Hidden 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
ianjfsutcliffe 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 06/Nov/11 2nd dnf
bwestwood 28/Oct/11 Lead

rested between crux attempts

JamieSparkes 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
allyrocke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead RP
drysori 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Alex
Rob84 24/Sep/11 2nd dnf

Desperate reach to get established above the roof!

with Rob Adie
Hidden 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
tom.ireson 03/Sep/11 Lead rpt
henry peter jenkins 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd dog
smollett 24/Jul/11 Lead
with oliver
max_chan 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Phil PCC
jonnybull 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Mags
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd RP
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead RP
dprctr 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very fun, climbing felt safe with one hard move above a nest of bomber gear. .....

tom.ireson 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Really nice route but seems very low in the grade. Only one tough move which is very well protected.

with Paul Jones, David Proctor
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead rpt
pie_eater_pete 20/May/11 Lead O/S
Jake Young 04/May/11 2nd dog
with Mike
Steeve 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

power! wins over technique. although I could have made it easier for myself. a brilliant climb throughout, low in the grade but high in quality.

marcduhig 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Stewart
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
crazy pierre 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
riddle 16/Apr/11 Lead dog

Made the wrong decision to climb this at the end of the day. Rested after trying the under-cling several tries.

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
nadeem 11/Jan/11 Lead dnf

Thwarted by freezing fingers and feeling sick. cleared the gear and absailed off the bush.

with Pete
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 07/Nov/10 Lead
with Rob Middleton, Sam Stringer
stephenhartley 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Si teasdale
mark20 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

E1 5c

bigdrew 17/Oct/10 Lead
with Mark R
bigdrew 10/Oct/10 Lead dog

1 fall. Should have done it clean but rushed it first time.

donkster 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with jus
Gazleah 05/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with paul jones, tom ireson
tim newton 18/Sep/10 Lead dog

fell off the crux the first time. found it quite easy the second time.

with roger bennion
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead β
r@bag 18/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
brian watson 05/Sep/10 2nd dnf
with scott titt
Twisty 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
LankyPaddy 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Austen Clark
peppermill 11/Jul/10 Lead β

On Chungs gear. All out jug fest. Brilliant climb

Graeme Hammond 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with federico
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
DavidR 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd dog
Tez29 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Todd, Ivan
geddicakes 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with Nat, Paul Runnif
pabbage 15/May/10 2nd
keefe 15/May/10 -
with Tansy
Andy Moles 23/Apr/10 Lead β

Ferdia led initially but couldn't quite get the crux so came down and I led on through.

with Ferdia
ferdia 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Andy
Kyle Rance 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First E2, really nice route, definitly recommend it.

vanderz 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
leon 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

After leading it I then seconded it, Ste couldn't make crux move.

with Steven Davidson
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead
mic_b 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Failed to commit first time, too tired second. A couple of good falls. Easy E2, one to come back to...

with mic_b
Andy Peak 1 06/Mar/10 Lead
nickmattia ??/2010 Lead dog

Fell on the crux, got it 2nd go. My first E2.

with ryan jones
Hidden ??/2010 2nd dog
Cragrat Rich 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Much faffing and wrming of hands pre crux, up and down a bit, then went for it. I'm not sure about this being easy E2. It required much faith in marginal finger holds (inc during foothold loss) followed by deep breathing and intense staying power to reach sanctuary. Very fulfilling experience, loved it!

Hidden 05/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Simon Davenport 15/Nov/09 Lead dnf

Can do - didn't have the balls!

with Brian and Dave
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Oct/09 Lead
david morse 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with mikey em BB andy G anna x2
HIGHTOWER 23/Aug/09 2nd

Joe went up and backed off. I nearly had it, but didn't commit. Then Joe went again, fell a few times then got it. I seconded cleanly.

with Joe (Hotrock)
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead
Ben1983 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The reach is harder than it would presumably have been had the broken flake still been there - you have to go up to the hold out left which is 3 or 4 inches further - but I could still just about reach at 5ft11 with short arms. You cant do it now (at least not unless youre much stronger than me on crappy sandy sidepulls) in the way the guy is doing it in the old photo on here. Felt right at 5c.

with Gary
London Luke ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
smudge 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
djp1 24/Jun/09 2nd
with smudge
thomasadixon 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Fell, pulled the ropes and did it clean. That's a *long* reach to a not good hold! Easy other than that though.

with Becca
Reaver2k 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Slab at the bottom is relatively easy, some good gear in the break, then a huge reach. Found a different way from the humongous span of Mike, moved slightly further, got a decent undercut with right hand, then swing up and left to the almost invisible but good hold, feet up and get other hand on the good flake. I can imagine it being much easier when the ear was there! Finish wasn't too bad, will definitely lead this sometime.

with Michael Watson
Reaver2k 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Went up this with tom again soon after.

JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
hash 25/May/09 2nd dog

got the crux second time

max_chan 25/May/09 Lead O/S

Apparently 'ear' hold came off in June 2007 leaving a smaller hold.

with Lou
Jim Slater 25/May/09 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
chris wyatt 25/May/09 Lead O/S

If the ear came off, it left a positive crimp. Good route, easy for E2 probably E1

with hash popat
Dave Foster 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Left foot slipped on crux. Pulled ropes and lead clean second go. Annoyed as it's far easier than Nemmes Pas Harry which went fine.

with Andy
Woodiee 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

the "ear" move has become harder as the lower flake has snapped off! - more of a lay away crimp for the short (like me) before the security of the upper flake can be gained

Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
jimbonfire 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Sankey 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Luke
chris sm 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 23/Aug/08 Lead
with Emma
climbergg 23/Aug/08 2nd
tlr 24/Jun/08 Lead
mattyork2 11/May/08 Lead O/S
tom.e 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Misha 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

E1 5b and then only for a couple of moves. Nice route though. The crucial small flake above the roof seems to have been larger in the past!

Hidden 12/Feb/08 Lead dnf
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
drysori ??/2008 Lead
Owen W-G 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Pleasant well-pro E1.

with Max
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead
hailtryfan ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Pythonist 18/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Jennions
Hidden ?/Sep/07 -
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
BallsofBritishSteel 04/Aug/07 TR dog
with Charles
Hidden 01/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Alex Mason 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S

tricky move over bulge, attempted the roof to find hardly any solid rock.

with mick radford
Mick r 08/Jul/07 2nd
bullwinkle 19/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Paul
Tony Little 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with skydivingbluecat
Daniel Armitage 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
craig d 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Overgraded, should be E1 5B

with Simon Kincaid
Joe Dove 05/May/07 2nd
with kev
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Actually seconded twice, once with Nick and once with James. The long move doesn't get any easier second time round.

Luke Brooks 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

It's a long way for shorties!

with Kim Hayward
seemore ?/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Jim Dale
Hidden ??/2007 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Peakpdr ??/2007 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza ?/Oct/06 2nd dog

clean enough climb, but having only really led v-diffs out door, id have tae say it was flamin pumpy

with james
stuart100 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Brown
Hidden 02/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Mark Riley 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Pete Oates
maybe_si 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with danger john
jchenoweth 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Joe Costello 11/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
SMc ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Anne
Ram MkiV 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tom anfd Mike
cem 04/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Geoff, Frances Taylor
Rich Malcolm 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with Rick Asher, Mick Brohan
AJ007 10/Apr/06 Lead rpt

Had seconded Dan 10/04/06

with Mike H
dan gibson 10/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Dad
Boy ??/2006 -
mattwyles1 ??/2006 2nd
Nicos 29/Sep/05 Lead O/S

my first e2

with mick b
Hidden 23/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 13/Jul/05 TR
cem 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Miles Butteriss
Skell ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
SteveM 08/May/05 Lead RP
with Steve Foster
Hidden 25/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ??/2005 Lead
Chris M ??/2005 -
nickcanute ??/2005 Lead O/S
LankyPaddy 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S

First E2 :o)

with Chris Schurch
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??/2004 -
with Pete Robinson
chris warner ?/Oct/03 2nd
with james raitt
Hidden 30/Mar/03 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/03 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 28/Oct/01 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/00 Lead
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
sadams 20/Feb/00 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dog
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/99 Lead O/S
steveriley ?/Aug/98 Lead

My first E1, turned out to be E2 :)

Rich Kirby 15/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/97 Lead
Hidden 28/Oct/95 Lead
John Southworth 08/Jul/95 Lead
Roget 20/Mar/95 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
IanD353 ?/Feb/94 Solo O/S
D Tempest 24/Oct/93 Lead
with Michelle, Rick
Hidden 10/Oct/93 Lead
Chris Reid 07/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
shark 09/May/87 Lead
with Phill Dickens
Hidden 18/Jul/82 Lead
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High E3
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Votes cast 99
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 88
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set