Derbyshire > Bamford Edge >
 
Auricle** E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Neb Buttress Direct
 
Jumping Jack Longland >>
[Bamford, Auricle, 3 kb]16m. Low in the grade. The face right of the arete has hard moves above the roof to the 'ear'. Escape right below the roofs. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Gosling 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Bamford, Auricle © overdrawnboy
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 277 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

Quite nice, not too bad if your lanky like me...
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Emma

Couldn't do the move, i'm rubbish at coming up from overhangs, even once I got my hands on the good holds I couldn't pull onto the face.
Guy Atkinson - 2nd dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Tom Butterworth

Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/14 with Katie

didn't think it was soft. gear placements are good but in suspect flakes.
theomoore - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Roisin

Jam_sandwich - Lead β - 22/Jun/14 with Alex Thompson, Sam Carey

Downclimbed off the crux move, let Jam take the tick. Save it for another day.
Alex Thompson - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/14 with Jam, Sam Carey

First E2
Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Mari Ijas

Lawrence Beesley-Peck - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Jamie Paterson

Hidden - Lead - Jun/14

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Dave

Anne Gumbley - 2nd dog - 05/May/14 with Mark Fairbank

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Anne Gumbley

First grit E2. Big thumbs up
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Take 2, still can't do the move. Bogey route
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 03/May/14

Hidden - Lead β - 03/May/14

Failed on crux of this a year ago on cold day. Glad to get it today when I could feel my fingers!! The crux is a very long reach. The rest is easy!!
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Ben Cole

Went up to give Jumping Jack Longland a go, but after one failed excursion over the roof my arms were giving up so I bailed on the normal finish to this route.
David Kay - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/14 with Moritz Lesserman

Tim Rodgers - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/14 with Mark Anstiss

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead - 2014

marconi - 2nd - 17/Dec/13

admackie - 17/Dec/13 with mark

MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Smithy

Oo - 2nd dnf - 06/Oct/13

Smithy Smith - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13 with Mark Roe

nick ferro - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Oli Birkill

one desperate move sandwiched in a 2 star hvs
rurp - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with bill farmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Wayne S - 2nd - 08/Aug/13 with Deacon

Gudge - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Coel Hellier

Brown - 2nd - 30/Jul/13 with James T

claregardiner - Lead - 10/Jul/13

i.fish2000 - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/13 with David P.

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Dave Clark

Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Liam Ingram

Undercut. Get feet high. Reach with right hand, then left laying away slightly. Wouldn't be a bad E2 to lead; well protected crux move.
gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 16/Jun/13 with James Lawson, Max Pendleton

Tried to lead after seconding, but couldn't do the crux, then seconded it again quite easily. Next time!
Kirill - 2nd - 16/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych, Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong, Kirill Spiridonov

ig248 - Lead - 16/Jun/13 with Kirill

EeFu - 2nd dnf - 16/Jun/13 with Charles Moreton

Ground up. Easy when you get it right.
Nathaniel Larsson - Lead RP - 09/Jun/13 with Louise Hall

Cheated the crux... one day.
Louise Hall - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13 with Nathaniel Gjoderum-Symons

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Marq - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Kev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/May/13

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Rob Middleton

mhawk - TR O/S - 16/May/13 with Kai Ren Ong

First E2 lead. The moves felt like solid 5c but the crux is short-lived and well protected with a good rest at either end. probably puts it at the lower end of E2, but no push over.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Chris

Tamati - 2nd - Apr/13

Creaky!
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - Mar/13 with Kate Tarrant

kate tarrant - 2nd dog - Mar/13

Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Dave

Neil D - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Nadeem Rahim

maria85 - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/12 with Will

riddle - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Tom Elliot

sopaz - 2nd - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/12

Fell once on the crux, then clean, great route
claregardiner - Lead - 01/Sep/12

Jethro - 2nd - Sep/12 with Helen Marsden, Simon Lindley, Mark Watkins, Richard Sharpe, Adam Lindley

Quite tough, difficult to get the flake in the right way.
James Oswald - 2nd - 27/Jul/12 with deacon, Jon Stewart

jwpil - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with James Oswald

David Kay - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Mel Michon

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with andy gardner, deacon, ed morris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with haydn

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/12 with Andrew Deacon

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with Mike W

mwatson - 2nd O/S - 18/May/12

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Mark gillanders

Had some recommendations... Safe crux, definitely a soft one for the tall.
Oliver Houston - Lead β - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

awesomely cool, bit too well protected for E2, but cool all the same !!
Woodiee - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12 with oliwarlow

Richard P Coates - 2nd dnf - 04/May/12 with Courty, ianjfsutcliffe

stuaart - 2nd - 14/Apr/12 with Neil Redgrave

With lower gear in place
Gambit - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Barney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

adie84 - 2012

ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Coatesy

Richard P Coates - 2nd dnf - 06/Nov/11 with ianjfsutcliffe

rested between crux attempts
bwestwood - Lead - 28/Oct/11

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Liam Ingram

allyrocke - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Jamie Sparkes

cam1401 - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Andy O

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Oct/11

drysori - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Alex

Desperate reach to get established above the roof!
Rob84 - 2nd dnf - 24/Sep/11 with Rob Adie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/11

tom.ireson - Lead rpt - 03/Sep/11 with Charlotte Latter

henry peter jenkins - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with emilio bachini

good slab climbing to the break, took a coupe of goes to work out the crux. will be back to lead it.
LukeP LCC - 2nd dog - 28/Aug/11 with steve kirman

smollett - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with oliver

max_chan - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Phil PCC

jonnybull - Lead dog - 24/Jul/11 with Mags

slacky - 2nd RP - 14/Jul/11 with Ben

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jul/11

Very fun, climbing felt safe with one hard move above a nest of bomber gear. .....
dprctr - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Tom Ireson

Really nice route but seems very low in the grade. Only one tough move which is very well protected.
tom.ireson - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Paul Jones, David Proctor

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/May/11

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

Jake Young - 2nd dog - 04/May/11 with Mike

power! wins over technique. although I could have made it easier for myself. a brilliant climb throughout, low in the grade but high in quality.
Steeve - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Stewart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

crazy pierre - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Rory Juss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Made the wrong decision to climb this at the end of the day. Rested after trying the under-cling several tries.
riddle - Lead dog - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Thwarted by freezing fingers and feeling sick. cleared the gear and absailed off the bush.
nadeem - Lead dnf - 11/Jan/11 with Pete

mwatson - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Rob Middleton, Sam Stringer

stephenhartley - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Si teasdale

E1 5c
mark20 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10

bigdrew - Lead - 17/Oct/10 with Mark R

1 fall. Should have done it clean but rushed it first time.
bigdrew - Lead dog - 10/Oct/10 with Alistair

donkster - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with jus

Gazleah - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/10 with paul jones, tom ireson

fell off the crux the first time. found it quite easy the second time.
tim newton - Lead dog - 18/Sep/10 with roger bennion

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Sep/10

r@bag - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10

brian watson - 2nd dnf - 05/Sep/10 with scott titt

Twisty - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Will Smith

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

LankyPaddy - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/10 with Austen Clark

On Chungs gear. All out jug fest. Brilliant climb
Troy Tempest - Lead β - 11/Jul/10

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/10 with federico

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

DavidR - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/10

Tez29 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Todd, Ivan

geddicakes - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with Nat, Paul Runnif

pabbage - 2nd - 15/May/10

keefe - 15/May/10 with Tansy

Ferdia led initially but couldn't quite get the crux so came down and I led on through.
Andy Moles - Lead β - 23/Apr/10 with Ferdia

ferdia - 2nd - 23/Apr/10 with Andy

First E2, really nice route, definitly recommend it.
Kyle Rance - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ben Watts

vanderz - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Graham Plant

After leading it I then seconded it, Ste couldn't make crux move.
leon - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Steven Davidson

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/10

mic_b - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Failed to commit first time, too tired second. A couple of good falls. Easy E2, one to come back to...
Jon_Warner - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/10 with mic_b

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/Mar/10

Fell on the crux, got it 2nd go. My first E2.
nickmattia - Lead dog - 2010 with ryan jones

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2010

Much faffing and wrming of hands pre crux, up and down a bit, then went for it. I'm not sure about this being easy E2. It required much faith in marginal finger holds (inc during foothold loss) followed by deep breathing and intense staying power to reach sanctuary. Very fulfilling experience, loved it!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/09

Can do - didn't have the balls!
middle aged slob - Lead dnf - 15/Nov/09 with Brian and Dave

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Sarah Stirling, Mick Ryan

david morse - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with mikey em BB andy G anna x2

Joe went up and backed off. I nearly had it, but didn't commit. Then Joe went again, fell a few times then got it. I seconded cleanly.
HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 23/Aug/09 with Joe (Hotrock)

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/09

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

The reach is harder than it would presumably have been had the broken flake still been there - you have to go up to the hold out left which is 3 or 4 inches further - but I could still just about reach at 5ft11 with short arms. You cant do it now (at least not unless youre much stronger than me on crappy sandy sidepulls) in the way the guy is doing it in the old photo on here. Felt right at 5c.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Gary

London Luke - Lead O/S - Jul/09

smudge - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Dan Poulter

djp1 - 2nd - 24/Jun/09 with smudge

Fell, pulled the ropes and did it clean. That's a *long* reach to a not good hold! Easy other than that though.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Becca

Slab at the bottom is relatively easy, some good gear in the break, then a huge reach. Found a different way from the humongous span of Mike, moved slightly further, got a decent undercut with right hand, then swing up and left to the almost invisible but good hold, feet up and get other hand on the good flake. I can imagine it being much easier when the ear was there! Finish wasn't too bad, will definitely lead this sometime.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Michael Watson

Went up this with tom again soon after.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Tom Dixon

JPGR - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Yvette

got the crux second time
hash - 2nd dog - 25/May/09 with Chris Wyatt

Apparently 'ear' hold came off in June 2007 leaving a smaller hold.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with Lou

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with Trevor

If the ear came off, it left a positive crimp. Good route, easy for E2 probably E1
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with hash popat

Left foot slipped on crux. Pulled ropes and lead clean second go. Annoyed as it's far easier than Nemmes Pas Harry which went fine.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Andy

the "ear" move has become harder as the lower flake has snapped off! - more of a lay away crimp for the short (like me) before the security of the upper flake can be gained
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Tom Pitchforth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09

keith leonard - Lead dog - 2009

Hidden - 2009

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Luke

chris sm - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Tim M - Lead - 23/Aug/08 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 23/Aug/08 with cheesesarnie

tlr - Lead - 24/Jun/08 with James Turnbull

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Rebecca Ellis

tom.e - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Claire

E1 5b and then only for a couple of moves. Nice route though. The crucial small flake above the roof seems to have been larger in the past!
Misha - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/08

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

drysori - Lead - 2008

Pleasant well-pro E1.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Max

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/07

hailtryfan - 2nd O/S - Oct/07 with AJ Bowley

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/07 with Chris Jennions

wolverine - Sep/07 with John Nightingale

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/07

BallsofBritishSteel - TR dog - 04/Aug/07 with Charles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/07

tricky move over bulge, attempted the roof to find hardly any solid rock.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with mick radford

Mick r - 2nd - 08/Jul/07 with Cragdog al

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/07 with Paul

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with skydivingbluecat

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/07

Overgraded, should be E1 5B
craig d - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Simon Kincaid

Joe Dove - 2nd - 05/May/07 with kev

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with John Nightingale

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/07

Actually seconded twice, once with Nick and once with James. The long move doesn't get any easier second time round.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/07 with James Rowe

It's a long way for shorties!
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Kim Hayward

seemore - Lead dog - Mar/07 with Jim Dale

Hidden - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

John Lisle - 2007

pauldr - Lead rpt - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06

clean enough climb, but having only really led v-diffs out door, id have tae say it was flamin pumpy
fatbuoybazza - 2nd dog - Oct/06 with james

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Ian Brown

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/06

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Pete Oates

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with danger john

jchenoweth - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/06 with maybe_si

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/06 with Matt

SMc - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Anne

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06 with Tom anfd Mike

cem - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/06 with Geoff, Frances Taylor

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with Rick Asher, Mick Brohan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/06 with AJ

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Dad

Boy - 2006

mattwyles1 - 2nd - 2006

my first e2
Nicos - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/05 with mick b

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/05

JohnHutch - TR - 13/Jul/05 with L

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/05 with Miles Butteriss

Skell - Lead O/S - Jun/05

SteveM - Lead RP - 08/May/05 with Steve Foster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/05

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2005

Chris M - 2005

First E2 :o)
LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/04 with Chris Schurch

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/04

Tim Sparrow - 2004 with Pete Robinson

chris warner - 2nd - Oct/03 with james raitt

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/01

Hidden - Lead - 01/Oct/00

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

sadams - Lead - 20/Feb/00 with Tom Briggs

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2000

Hidden - Lead dog - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/99

My first E1, turned out to be E2 :)
SteveRi - Lead - Aug/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/98

ChrisJD - Lead - 26/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead - 28/Oct/95

John Southworth - Lead - 08/Jul/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/95

IanD353 - Solo O/S - Feb/94

Hidden - Lead - 10/Oct/93

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/93 with Oliver Allen

shark - Lead - 09/May/87 with Phill Dickens

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jul/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Ash Sayers, Hidden, pete_naylor, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Gary Coggon, Hidden, i.fish2000, gavinpeach, givemetea, Dean177, Hidden, Hidden, RM199, Hidden, Aufton, jak.kelly, joese7en, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden, Chris the Tall

Voting
Total votes cast 247
hard E30 of 86
E30 of 86
easy E30 of 86
hard E21 of 86
E217 of 86
easy E247 of 86
hard E121 of 86
E10 of 86
easy E10 of 86
hard 6a0 of 85
6a0 of 85
easy 6a1 of 85
hard 5c8 of 85
5c49 of 85
easy 5c20 of 85
hard 5b7 of 85
5b0 of 85
easy 5b0 of 85
3 Stars8 of 76
2 Stars63 of 76
1 Star5 of 76
0 Stars0 of 76
Bag of .....0 of 76
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 277 (0.4%)
Lead185 of 277 (66.8%)
Followed68 of 277 (24.5%)
Toproped3 of 277 (1.1%)
Unknown20 of 277 (7.2%)

'Climbed'80 of 277 (28.9%)
clean O/S124 of 277 (44.8%)
clean β6 of 277 (2.2%)
clean rpt18 of 277 (6.5%)
clean RP6 of 277 (2.2%)
dogged26 of 277 (9.4%)
dnf17 of 277 (6.1%)