UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Begin as for Steamin' and but trend rightwards to a ledge - the Corbel. Move right then up to the break, then right and up to finish a bit bold in places. © Rockfax

FA. Harry Kelly 1921.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage 'Difficults' , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
slacky 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: jamesturnbull: sorry missed that. However, there seems to be a discrepency between the desciption of The Pinion on this site and the 1989 BMC guide. The later has the Pinion finishing up the arete on the left, whilst the description here says finish on the right.
βeta?
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βeta: jamesturnbull: sorry missed that. However, there seems to be a discrepency between the desciption of The Pinion on this site and the 1989 BMC guide. The later has the Pinion finishing up the arete on the left, whilst the description here says finish on the right.
The old James turnbull 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: to slack line, its givin e1 5b in the rockfax guide, look one to the left here. think hvs 5b would be better. steamin that is not this route
βeta?
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βeta: to slack line, its givin e1 5b in the rockfax guide, look one to the left here. think hvs 5b would be better. steamin that is not this route
slacky 15 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The direct finish over the capping roof is fun (Steamin' HVS 5a (1983), BMC Stanage (1989))
βeta?
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βeta: The direct finish over the capping roof is fun (Steamin' HVS 5a (1983), BMC Stanage (1989))
Dale Berry 21 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than the Ariel, but not as finely positioned.
βeta?
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βeta: Harder than the Ariel, but not as finely positioned.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracker Jack

Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)

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