Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the slab left of the overhang with good delicate moves on spaced pockets. There is more gear than appears from below. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Green Peak Grit Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| liensiwel | 26 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section! |
||||
| runestone | 11 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same |
||||
| Cumbrianexile | 18 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf. |
||||
| jackie | 19 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold |
||||
| Graham T | 15 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 6 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind. |
||||
| dave frost | 11 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove. |
||||
| Dale Berry | 21 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing. |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 8 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner? |
||||
| climb52 | 16 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Misty Wall
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)