UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the slab left of the overhang with good delicate moves on spaced pockets. There is more gear than appears from below. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Green Peak Grit Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab

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User Date Notes
liensiwel 26 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section!
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βeta: Plenty of good gear options if you carry a broad selection of cams. Marvellous middle section!
runestone 11 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same
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βeta: Kept in good order by gardening annually by partner. It would be great if moor climbers did the same
Cumbrianexile 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf.
βeta?
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βeta: Footholds were good enough to do some jungle clearance on the big shelf.
jackie 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold
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βeta: Really nice route. Typical slab moves, and a little bold, but not hvs-bold. Try Perforation on Crows Chin a little further along if you want something hvs-bold
Graham T 15 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide
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βeta: I loved this route. Can't understand why it got HVS in the new definative guide
Jon Greengrass 6 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind.
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βeta: pleasant friction climbing with gear arriving just too late for any of the real difficulties, but satisfactory for a little peace of mind.
dave frost 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove.
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βeta: a nice delicate groove - keep an eye for a pebble on a difficult move on the start of the groove.
Dale Berry 21 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Sketchy moves, protected by well spaced small cams more than a VS make IMHO. Very nice Airy climbing.
Simon Caldwell 8 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner?
βeta?
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βeta: The first small cam placement is 3 or 4 feet off route to the left. Unfortunately I only discovered this later when leading Ariel, so did the first hard bit protected by a single dodgy nut. HVS without the side runner?
climb52 16 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS
βeta?
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βeta: you must have smaller cams than we did, felt more like HVS

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 122
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 112
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flash Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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