Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb The Green Streak to a delicate traverse out right onto the hanging slab. The crux follows - a low cam in a pocket may protect the start of the difficulties but it may not. The direct start is f6A. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn 1962.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Jaimey's tricky slab list , Stanage Slab , Eastern Grit E1s , E1's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Duz Walker | 24 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt more HVS to me, certainly no worse than Sunset Slab. Solo the easier routes hereabouts first would be my advice. My gear was probably pish but somehow (the chunkiness of the pebble helped) it never seemed to matter. Decked from Valediction later though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Felt more HVS to me, certainly no worse than Sunset Slab. Solo the easier routes hereabouts first would be my advice. My gear was probably pish but somehow (the chunkiness of the pebble helped) it never seemed to matter. Decked from Valediction later though. |
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| alan moore | 18 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did the higher traverse (5a), descending slightly to gain the footpocket at the start of the difficulties. Found the pebble pulling to be hard...harder than Kayak at Curbar. No gear except a side runner before leaving Green Streak;stupid really. Better fall in the puddle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I did the higher traverse (5a), descending slightly to gain the footpocket at the start of the difficulties. Found the pebble pulling to be hard...harder than Kayak at Curbar. No gear except a side runner before leaving Green Streak;stupid really. Better fall in the puddle. |
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| Andy Hobson | 3 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route; the traverse is definately the crux, the moves up the slab are 5a at most and straighforward once you commit to them. Didn't spot many opportunites for worthwhile gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good route; the traverse is definately the crux, the moves up the slab are 5a at most and straighforward once you commit to them. Didn't spot many opportunites for worthwhile gear. |
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| slacky | 17 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent fun, thoughtful, balancy moves on the traverse and the slab. Personaly I couldn't find the friend placement on the right at the end of the traverse (perhaps as I was too high?), but this provided an extra deterrent against slipping on the top section of the slab! Well worth doing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent fun, thoughtful, balancy moves on the traverse and the slab. Personaly I couldn't find the friend placement on the right at the end of the traverse (perhaps as I was too high?), but this provided an extra deterrent against slipping on the top section of the slab! Well worth doing. |
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| Charles Arthur | 15 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: You can traverse or go straighter up, as I recall... but either way looks about the same difficulty. Good fun - makes you think, as a good slab should. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: You can traverse or go straighter up, as I recall... but either way looks about the same difficulty. Good fun - makes you think, as a good slab should. |
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| Monk | 15 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Although the traverse was tricky I thought the moves up the slab were the (psychological?) crux. I'm not convinced that the low friend would actually keep you off the ground if you muffed the move. Good route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Although the traverse was tricky I thought the moves up the slab were the (psychological?) crux. I'm not convinced that the low friend would actually keep you off the ground if you muffed the move. Good route. |
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| ericinbristol | 6 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yep, you can get two Friends in. hard to tell whether the traverse low down or the step up higher up is harder... Lovely route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yep, you can get two Friends in. hard to tell whether the traverse low down or the step up higher up is harder... Lovely route |
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| Colin Scotchford | 9 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a solid friend 3.5 placement out to the right and below the level of the small friend | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a solid friend 3.5 placement out to the right and below the level of the small friend |
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| Horse | 14 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The book suggests freinds ie more than one, well I couldn't find more than a single small one.The bloke in the photo on this page has not even reached the crux never mind got past it. Good route, quite bold really, solid for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The book suggests freinds ie more than one, well I couldn't find more than a single small one.The bloke in the photo on this page has not even reached the crux never mind got past it. Good route, quite bold really, solid for the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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George
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)