Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start under the edge an overlap at 3m. Climb past the overlap then continue up the slab in a direct line to a tricky finale. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MattOwen | 25 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found it a really intricate route. Subtle variation in climbing style required. Head straight up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found it a really intricate route. Subtle variation in climbing style required. Head straight up. |
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| dave frost | 11 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: starting up the middle of the bottom slab makes it quite hard, most started a little right of where the guidebook suggested - looked much easier tho. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: starting up the middle of the bottom slab makes it quite hard, most started a little right of where the guidebook suggested - looked much easier tho. |
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| Dale Berry | 21 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not too bad. Has enough gear and lacks too many problems, so should make a good first severe. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not too bad. Has enough gear and lacks too many problems, so should make a good first severe. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 8 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have no idea how anyone could vote 0 stars for this, it's a superb route. Take a straight line up it's more like HS 4b, the original grade requires you to keep going sideways, hence presumably the name. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have no idea how anyone could vote 0 stars for this, it's a superb route. Take a straight line up it's more like HS 4b, the original grade requires you to keep going sideways, hence presumably the name. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Black Hawk Hell Crack
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)