Rockfax Description
Timing - About 6 to 10 hours car to car.
Approach to the base of the ridge - A yellow/white paint waymarked path leads rightwards from the parking area up to the foot of the rock buttress and a perched block - the route starts 100m further on.
1) Work up leftwards on ledges to the start of a horizontal traverse left below the steeper upper section of the ridge above.
2) Move left along the horizontal ledge passing a tricky step left (3+) where the ledge disappears midway, to a belay at the col on the arete.
3) Move left and down slightly before climbing the easy face to a point where the arete can be gained at a double bolt belay.
4) A steep move gains gradually easing ground above.
5) Continue up the ridge, past an exposed narrowing to a bolted abseil point.
6) Abseil to the notch below.
7) From notch climb straight up the slabby ridge (3+). Continue along ridge to another smaller notch. Climb rightwards out of this notch (4a ) to a fixed-rope and follow this to easy ground.
8) Scramble easily to a cross on the first of a number of closely-spaced summits.
9) The next section of the ridge is much easier and is basically easy walking and scrambling along the broad top of the ridge for around 2km.
9) The next section of the ridge is much easier and is basically easy walking and scrambling along the broad top of the ridge for around 2km.
10) The ridge terminates abruptly at a wide steep-sided col in the ridge. 30m back along the ridge from the edge of the col, locate a crack in a noticeably flat section. Downclimb or make a short abseil (threads in place) down the north side of the ridge to a path that leads into the base of the col.
11) Climb left (2+) from the base of the col before heading up easing ground to regain the ridge.
12) Follow the superbly-positioned narrow ridge to a drop-off at its end.
13) Make a final abseil to huge boulders and a path that quickly leads to the TV mast at the end of the ridge.
14) Head down easy but rocky and vegetated ground to a grassy broad col to the south.
15) Pick up a good path that gains a series of small roads and paths that wind along flat ground below the ridge back to the parking. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start from the Mirador, follow the path past the transmitters to the start of the ridge, This is taken more or less direct up the crest, the first tower is about VD. Some very narrow ridge walking follows to a descent into 'The Gap'. The pitch up this next tower is about S. Broad and narrow ridge walking follows to the 'Second Notch' where there is a descent to the 'parc' marked by white paint. The main summit soon follows with tiring rocky ground leading to a gully. This is the known limit of the route so far, it is possible the best remains!

Malpractise 11/May/13 Lead

With Paddy. Complete half only and retreat from col due to running out of time. Very scrappy first half and loads of route finding difficulties. Not one I'd repeat. Completed as per the Rockfax directions, not UKC

with Student
Hidden 28/Oct/12 -
99bolivar 10/Mar/12 -

E-W. Stumble on limestone pavement broke ribs

with Tim Josephy, John Hutchinson, Richard Smith, Peter Chadwick
Al Evans ??/2006 Solo

A complete ascent awaits

with Rich Mayfield
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3+
Mid 3+
Low 3+
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