Derbyshire > Stanage End >
 
Avril* HS 4b

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8m. Climb the pleasant jamming crack on good lockers. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage 100 VD - VS.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 180 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 19/Nov/13

mol - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Jesse

Totally out of practice!
daviesp2 - Lead dnf - 10/Aug/13 with Rich

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with John Chiverton

Tilt - Lead - Aug/13 with Steve Watts

jasonpm - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Nick

Jam, jam, jam. Hands and feet. Get your arms right in there. Worry about the grit rash tomorrow!
knighty - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Lee Cammann

Lots of jamming, and more jamming, pretty pumpy so you will be grateful it is only 8m tall.
SuperLee1985 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with chris knight

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

A jamming crack this steep is VS 4c in my book.
Rog Wilko - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Matt Gordon

Excellent route, layback the f**k out of it.
peachos - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Lilly, Graeme

Ricky Layf - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Pete

pete_naylor - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Jody

jogh - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13 with Ricky

palmer.jody - 2nd RP - 28/Apr/13 with Peter Naylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

AlanPedrick - 2013

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

a bit slimy
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

franhammond92 - Lead - 13/Sep/12

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/12

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Fran

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Sep/12

Nigel Bond - Lead - 28/Aug/12 with Dave Dewhurst

Howard J - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Vanessa Jackson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Fragmod - 2nd - 02/Jun/12

pbuggy91 - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12

Sneaky Haddock - Lead O/S - Apr/12 with Mr Christian

Mr Christian - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/12 with chris p duck

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Nov/11

benkelsey - Solo O/S - 22/Oct/11

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Tony Williams

Jimbo C - 2nd - 24/Sep/11 with Pete

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/11

Becky E - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/11 with John Maxfield PCC

benjio - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with matt t

matthomas79 - Lead dog - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - Solo - 26/Jul/11

Will_Maxwell - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/11

James Malloch - 2nd - 15/Jun/11 with Oli Houston

Oliver Houston - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/11

Pretty tough and pumpy for an HS!
jack89 - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with gaz_jones

No Comment!!!!
gaz_jones - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/11 with Jack Gilbert

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Becky E

Becky E - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Graeme Hammond

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Tough and sustained. And the dead sheep are still there!
cloneragan - Lead RP - 20/Nov/10 with Dan Tudhope

Hidden - Solo - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 25/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

j4kub - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with claire gibson

JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/10

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Anna

Oliver Houston - Solo - 29/Jun/10

Sustained. Needed two tries to figure out the start.
graphiclunarkid - Lead RP - 26/Jun/10 with arctic jen, dpmUK

arctic_jen - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Rich

Haszko - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with James Salter

frankcp87 - 2nd - 25/Jun/10 with Ian Holbrook

dpmUK - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Rich

Backed off on the lead, seconded ok though
tompilgrem - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with Dad

Tough for the grade ?
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Bob/Tom

Harder than I was expecting. All felt a bit slippery on a warm evening.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Lou

Sinking jams the whole (brief) way. Lovely climb, but two dead sheep nearby made the place stink a bit.
Rob Jarratt - Lead - 12/Jun/10 with Julie Hardie, Andy Crawley

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

slacky - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

Hidden - Solo - 24/Apr/10

Katya - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Alex Dalton

Creep_pea - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Walsh

Ron - Lead - 2010 with Chris

Sean Kelly - 2010

Hidden - Lead - Oct/09

Shauna - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Jules

Brown - Solo O/S - 15/Jul/09 with James T

theo.mooney - Lead - Jul/09 with Mary Moloney

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 14/Jun/09 with Jim Hatfield

Tried to sandbag Michael on this but failed miserably when it wasn't as hard as I'd remembered it! Ahwell there is always next time...
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/09 with Chris Drinkwater

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Apr/09

popebenedictus - Solo O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Soloed

Hidden - Solo - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Adam Potter - 2nd - 12/Oct/08

Didn't use jams until the top of the crack.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

Finally got round to ticking this one that Tobs and I had backed off so many years ago.
SteveM - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/08 with Kat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with SteveM

A real battle
Neil Henson - 2nd - 14/Sep/08 with Graham Robinson

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/08

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/08 with Annelies

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/08

Lesson in jamming
alisonk - Lead - Jun/08 with Alex

btc - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with ian lovatt

barney@helmshore - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with simon

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Bruce Hayward

Hidden - Solo - 10/Feb/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

StevePr - Lead - 2008 with Alan

Pilch - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Graham

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - TR O/S - 07/Oct/07

gareth scott borthwick - Solo - 06/Sep/07 with Heddwyn Fletcher

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 25/Aug/07

gingerkate - 2nd - 05/Aug/07 with M

liamoloughlin - Solo O/S - Aug/07

Jesus christ what a climb! I am not used to HS's and this one was a real struggle! Hardest one yet! Some solid jams in places but alot of the time, as Nick said, a little too wide for solid ones. I really struggled placing my second piece of protection, found a ledge/jug to hang onto but had poor feet placements, switching between jammed hands to try and get the gear in the rigth hand, all the while getting more and more pumped after only being 3m's up! Was really huffing from the first move, trying not to overexcite myself but failing miserably. My first real pure jamming crack, used a couple of things outside the crack for my hands once or twice, but had alot of jamming practice and really seem to be getting the hang of it. Topped out thinking "Wow, asif I just managed that!". Must have placed atleast 4 or 5 pieces of gear within 8m of climbing. All round, fantastic climb, worth two climbs, and is sustained 4a-4b moves throughout. Next time it will go smoother with some luck.
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Matt Marshall

Really pumpy, with the crack slightly too wide for good jams :(
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/07 with Lucy Wheater

loose85 - 2nd - 21/Apr/07 with Nick Smith

Runout - 2nd - Apr/07 with northern lads

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Rampikino - Lead - 15/Oct/06 with MMC Various

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/06

steev - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/06 with Helena

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/06

Hidden - Solo - Jun/06

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Little Old Lady

Seconded in trainers - easy jamming.
Chris Sansum - 2nd - 30/Apr/06 with Sean Kenny

PenJD - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05 with Ruth S and Mark B

Nicos - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/05 with solo

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Stig - Lead O/S - 25/May/04 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Neil Curtis - 2nd - 25/Apr/04 with Arthur Austin

petekeron - Lead O/S - 2004

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/03

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 25/Feb/03

wet
Tobias at Home - Lead dnf - 22/Dec/02 with SteveM

Backed off in the rain
SteveM - Lead dnf - 22/Dec/02 with Tobs

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Aug/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/May/02

JohnHutch - TR - 15/Apr/02 with self belay

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead - Jun/01

rocktigger - Solo O/S - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/98

r0b - Solo O/S - 02/May/98

Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/98

Hidden - Solo - 14/Sep/97

Hidden - 09/Jul/97

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/97

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/96

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/95 with SL

rurp - 1995

Hidden - Solo - 10/Jul/94

Hidden - Solo - 08/Jun/93

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Aug/91

leathers - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/90

Hidden - Solo - 09/Jun/90

Raggar - AltLd - 10/Mar/90 with Jon B

BRUCESTRAC - 1990 with Chris Cracknell,Various

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 18/Oct/89

ChrisJD - Solo - 10/Jun/89

Iain Thow - Solo - 25/Jun/88

mark-abz - TR - 29/Jun/87

Andy Say - Solo - 23/May/87

Hidden - 1986

John Marsland - Solo - 10/Oct/84

Dave Musgrove - 28/Aug/83

malc - 2nd - 14/Aug/83

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 06/May/83

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Voting
Total votes cast 94
hard VS0 of 36
VS0 of 36
easy VS2 of 36
hard HS9 of 36
HS10 of 36
easy HS4 of 36
hard S11 of 36
S0 of 36
easy S0 of 36
hard 4c0 of 33
4c0 of 33
easy 4c1 of 33
hard 4b1 of 33
4b18 of 33
easy 4b2 of 33
hard 4a11 of 33
4a0 of 33
easy 4a0 of 33
3 Stars1 of 25
2 Stars7 of 25
1 Star8 of 25
0 Stars9 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed45 of 180 (25.0%)
Lead72 of 180 (40.0%)
Followed45 of 180 (25.0%)
Toproped3 of 180 (1.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 180 (1.1%)
Unknown13 of 180 (7.2%)

'Climbed'79 of 180 (43.9%)
clean O/S82 of 180 (45.6%)
clean rpt6 of 180 (3.3%)
clean RP3 of 180 (1.7%)
dogged5 of 180 (2.8%)
dnf5 of 180 (2.8%)