Rockfax Description
From the lowest point of the wall, climb the jamming crack then step left and take a brace of cracks. Hard work! © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1974

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Hidden 17/Apr Lead rpt
andy.smythe 17/Apr 2nd
Brannock 03/Apr 2nd


Hidden 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
alp79 25/Mar 2nd
with Sam F
Kipper-Phil Smith 13/Mar 2nd
with Shaun, Roscoe
PeteWilson 28/Feb Lead O/S

hard start then quite juggy

Hillson 28/Feb 2nd dog
Hillson 28/Feb 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
benlatham07 17/Oct/15 2nd
BTphonehome 23/Aug/15 2nd
with Tony
tmawer 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Bram
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Gudge 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Tough going - definitely the hardest of the cracks!

DavidR 11/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Fell off early on, so pulled ropes and started again.

Pero 11/Jun/15 TR
Hidden 11/Jun/15 TR
kp64zl ?/May/15 2nd dog
with Julian M
cem 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Backed off it: too tired, hot & sweaty.

with Hervé Péter-Contesse
oread 06/Apr/15 Lead

Tried harder than on most E1's very good!

shaunhumphreys 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy! well protected tho

Sam McCarthy 20/Mar/15 2nd
john lynch 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Joe Holden
Hidden 11/Oct/14 TR
Phil_Hall_97 07/Aug/14 TR rpt
LoshkaK 07/Aug/14 Lead dnf

done on top rope. top route.

The Reaper 15/Jul/14 Solo O/S

On shunt - first try of the micro Traxion. Great thuggy training on this face, all the routes feel like hard work for their length and grade.

deacondeacon 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
simon1965 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Hard route and good lead fro James. Harder than Rimmingtopn place that we did next at E2 5c (not)

with James
Stig 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 26/Apr/14 Lead RP

Yoyo'd. Brutal

with Chris Waddle
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
phillipwright ??/2014 Lead O/S
Jack93 22/Sep/13 Lead RP

Pumpy! I was ruined by the top! Slipped off near the start, pulled the ropes and did it this time. Make sure you don't traverse across too early!

Chris Redding 22/Sep/13 2nd dog

Powerful and pumpy for my small body, and I wasn't feeling it :( Should probably return...

vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
David Sherratt 18/Aug/13 Lead
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 2nd dog

stuck gear didnt help

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dog
migs493 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
Shaw Brown 30/Jun/13 Lead

Got pumped placing gear so took 1 rest. Crack seemed to small for hand jams but to large for fingers. Will be back!

Chris Wright 16/Jun/13 Lead
Andrew Sloan 19/May/13 Lead dnf

Thought because I climbed 5b at Gogarth 2 weeks ago I'd manage this....big mistake, totally pumped after 10ft. lowered off!

bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Richard, Owen
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with big Si
Ali.B 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with RobertCanavan
jshields 01/Sep/12 2nd

Previous lead, '93/94

with Paul Tretheway
JamieSparkes 16/May/12 Lead RP

wet and green in places. tricky. one fall

gingerwolf 12/May/12 2nd RP
with Glenn
gregoritos 15/Apr/12 Solo O/S

way easier than terazza crack

Nevil ??/2012 Lead
with Vince
Vincej ??/2012 2nd
with Nevil
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
jon22 30/Oct/11 Lead
stuaart 10/Jul/11 2nd

Neil led. Hard work from bottom to top. Top end HVS I'd say. Slipped off the bottom bit through not doing it right (it is a layback...)

with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
Graeme Hammond 23/Jun/11 Lead rpt

hard work!

with Gavin Singleton, Richard Williams
Hidden 20/Jun/11 2nd β
pie_eater_pete 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
Alaric 01/May/11 TR dog

Set up as a top rope. Wow what a good climb. Very very hard work - was panting for about five minutes afterwards. I had two falls. Neil and Ed a few more - although Ed climbed this immediately following Exodus which is impressive.

with Ed, Neil
Ed Griffin 01/May/11 TR dog

Sustained and the step left is bloody awkward.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
gnc760 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Freshers
Dan Geh 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/10 -
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
joese7en 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andrew sandercock 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with robert sandercock
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
w.pettet-smith 10/Oct/09 Lead dog

for the first time, and rather stupidly, i placed a nut, stuck my finger through the swage and hung on it. it really hurt. all in all, got a bit of a spanking.

Ketu 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
tebs 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

fricking hard

with Ian
danm 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Brian (Smacks), Jake
Tim W 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Darren Miller, Janna Trevorrow
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
danm 04/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Middleton
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 2nd
steveb2006 13/Apr/09 Lead

Hard strenuous climbing with no really good holds and hard to place gear - a battle

Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
morganator 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Floris
Jeronimo 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

couldn't get into the second crack, not that I even tried! A very hard route, it beat me even though I was feeling strong and confident. The only consoling fact was that Ben couldn't do it either. Bomber gear though.

tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Felt hard, pumpy.

with Will
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR dnf
timharrison 21/May/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 21/Apr/07 2nd
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Peakpdr ??/2007 Lead O/S
with phill
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd
Morgan Woods ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Gareth
dan gibson ??/2006 -
markbenton 21/Jun/05 AltLd
catt 23/Apr/05 2nd dog
with Neil, Paul Winder
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
MeMeMe ?/Oct/04 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Carl Smethurst 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Ian Pickles
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 -
with Viv
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/99 -
with Phil
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
Stoney Boy 18/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead dog
with Richard Bradbury
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Martin Bennett 17/Oct/93 -
with MT
Hidden 21/Mar/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Roget 20/May/90 Lead O/S
with jon
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 03/Dec/83 -
with Kim Greenald
Andy Fielding ??/1982 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, AsleepOnBelay, Alaric, Pete Nugent, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Rachel Loaring, Hidden
High E1
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High HVS
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set