10m.

Rockfax Description
From the lowest point of the wall, climb the jamming crack then step left and take a brace of cracks. Hard work! © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1974

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
ColdAndWet 21/Sep Lead
JohnBotham 21/Sep 2nd dog
The Grist 18/Sep 2nd
SteveM 17/Sep Lead O/S

Good god that was hard. More gear placed than planned, not all great. Kept going tho...

with Luke
Luke Jones 17/Sep 2nd dog
with Steve Mead
Hidden 18/Aug Lead
Hidden 30/Jul Lead O/S
keitht 17/Jul Lead
Neilaw 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Jim
Droyd 27/Jun Lead dnf

Backed off due to hard start - must be 5c. Downclimbed though, so one to come back for.

with Fredrik Hansson
FlavioL1989 18/Jun Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 18/Jun 2nd dog
with Flavio
Hidden 17/Apr Lead rpt
andy.smythe 17/Apr 2nd
Brannock 03/Apr 2nd

Hard

Hidden 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
alp79 25/Mar 2nd
with Sam F
Kipper-Phil Smith 13/Mar 2nd
with Shaun, Roscoe
PeteWilson 28/Feb Lead O/S

hard start then quite juggy

Hillson 28/Feb 2nd dog
Hillson 28/Feb 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
benlatham07 17/Oct/15 2nd
BTphonehome 23/Aug/15 2nd
with Tony
tmawer 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Bram
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Gudge 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Tough going - definitely the hardest of the cracks!

DavidR 11/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Fell off early on, so pulled ropes and started again.

Pero 11/Jun/15 TR
Hidden 11/Jun/15 TR
kp64zl ?/May/15 2nd dog
with Julian M
cem 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Backed off it: too tired, hot & sweaty.

with Hervé Péter-Contesse
oread 06/Apr/15 Lead

Tried harder than on most E1's very good!

shaunhumphreys 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy! well protected tho

Sam McCarthy 20/Mar/15 2nd
john lynch 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Joe Holden
Hidden 11/Oct/14 TR
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
Phil_Hall_97 07/Aug/14 TR rpt
LoshkaK 07/Aug/14 Lead dnf

done on top rope. top route.

The Reaper 15/Jul/14 Solo O/S

On shunt - first try of the micro Traxion. Great thuggy training on this face, all the routes feel like hard work for their length and grade.

deacondeacon 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
simon1965 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Hard route and good lead fro James. Harder than Rimmingtopn place that we did next at E2 5c (not)

with James
Stig 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 26/Apr/14 Lead RP

Yoyo'd. Brutal

with Chris Waddle
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
phillipwright ??/2014 Lead O/S
Jack93 22/Sep/13 Lead RP

Pumpy! I was ruined by the top! Slipped off near the start, pulled the ropes and did it this time. Make sure you don't traverse across too early!

Chris Redding 22/Sep/13 2nd dog

Powerful and pumpy for my small body, and I wasn't feeling it :( Should probably return...

vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
David Sherratt 18/Aug/13 Lead
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 2nd dog

stuck gear didnt help

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dog
migs493 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
Shaw Brown 30/Jun/13 Lead

Got pumped placing gear so took 1 rest. Crack seemed to small for hand jams but to large for fingers. Will be back!

Chris Wright 16/Jun/13 Lead
Andrew Sloan 19/May/13 Lead dnf

Thought because I climbed 5b at Gogarth 2 weeks ago I'd manage this....big mistake, totally pumped after 10ft. lowered off!

bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Richard, Owen
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with big Si
Ali.B 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with RobertCanavan
jshields 01/Sep/12 2nd

Previous lead, '93/94

with Paul Tretheway
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead RP
gingerwolf 12/May/12 2nd RP
with Glenn
gregoritos 15/Apr/12 Solo O/S

way easier than terazza crack

Nevil ??/2012 Lead
with Vince
Vincej ??/2012 2nd
with Nevil
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
jon22 30/Oct/11 Lead
stuaart 10/Jul/11 2nd

Neil led. Hard work from bottom to top. Top end HVS I'd say. Slipped off the bottom bit through not doing it right (it is a layback...)

with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
Graeme Hammond 23/Jun/11 Lead rpt

hard work!

with Gavin Singleton, Richard Williams
Hidden 20/Jun/11 2nd β
pie_eater_pete 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
Alaric 01/May/11 TR dog

Set up as a top rope. Wow what a good climb. Very very hard work - was panting for about five minutes afterwards. I had two falls. Neil and Ed a few more - although Ed climbed this immediately following Exodus which is impressive.

with Ed, Neil
Ed Griffin 01/May/11 TR dog

Sustained and the step left is bloody awkward.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
gnc760 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Freshers
Dan Geh 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/10 -
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
joese7en 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andrew sandercock 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with robert sandercock
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
w.pettet-smith 10/Oct/09 Lead dog

for the first time, and rather stupidly, i placed a nut, stuck my finger through the swage and hung on it. it really hurt. all in all, got a bit of a spanking.

Ketu 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
tebs 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

fricking hard

with Ian
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Tim W 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Darren Miller, Janna Trevorrow
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Middleton
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
morganator 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Floris
Jeronimo 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

couldn't get into the second crack, not that I even tried! A very hard route, it beat me even though I was feeling strong and confident. The only consoling fact was that Ben couldn't do it either. Bomber gear though.

tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Felt hard, pumpy.

with Will
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR dnf
timharrison 21/May/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 21/Apr/07 2nd
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Peakpdr ??/2007 Lead O/S
with phill
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd
Morgan Woods ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Gareth
dan gibson ??/2006 -
markbenton 21/Jun/05 AltLd
catt 23/Apr/05 2nd dog
with Neil, Paul Winder
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
MeMeMe ?/Oct/04 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Carl Smethurst 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Ian Pickles
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 -
with Viv
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with .
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/99 -
with Phil
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
Stoney Boy 18/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead dog
with Richard Bradbury
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead

c94

Martin Bennett 17/Oct/93 -
with MT
Hidden 21/Mar/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Roget 20/May/90 Lead O/S
with jon
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 03/Dec/83 -
with Kim Greenald
Andy Fielding ??/1982 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
pc1983, MikeMarcus, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, AsleepOnBelay, Alaric, Pete Nugent, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Rachel Loaring, Hidden
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set