UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The crack on the right gives good laybacking to a neat finale and is pleasantly low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 7 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for VS but really fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy for VS but really fun
samnotjoe 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Try and lead this it\'s doable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Try and lead this it's doable
shaun walby 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route but just too short, good introduction to roof moves with bomber gear. Worth its 2 stars but not 4c, HS4b??
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route but just too short, good introduction to roof moves with bomber gear. Worth its 2 stars but not 4c, HS4b??
Nick Smith - Climbers 5 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, but the good bits are over far too soon. Not as good as Quantum Crack...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, but the good bits are over far too soon. Not as good as Quantum Crack...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 194
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 183
Votes cast 169
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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