Derbyshire > Stanage High Neb >
 
The Knutter** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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Hearsay Crack >>
[The Knutter, 2 kb]10m. The blunt central arete of the wall has a thin flake-crack running up it. Tricky moves (wires) lead to the beckoning holds, above which things rapidly ease off. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: The Knutter © Dave Rumney
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 333 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

the power - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Paul Hy

Great lead by Phil.
Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Phil T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/14

ClemB - 2nd - 10/Mar/14

metal arms - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Misread how to do the crux and made it much harder for myself, eases quickly afterwards though.
JakeWShaw - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Nick

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 21/Dec/13 with Liz Martin, Tom Martin, Steve Ramsden

Jonny Nick - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/13

08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/13 with jamie

First HVS!
Jamie Skelton - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Nicky Brierley

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Rachel

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/13

vassy05 - Solo - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/13

chrisbussell - Lead - 04/Jun/13 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/13

SteveM - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Kat

kitkat78 - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with SteveM

joemallia - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Paul Whittaker, Jill Whittaker

efrance24234 - Solo O/S - 26/May/13 with Beth heatherington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Ewano - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/13

The crux gear wasn't very inspiring at the crux, however I managed to wobble my way up to the better holds. Not very happy with the way I climbed it but I won't be coming back to do it again any time soon!
David Kay - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Mel Michon

1 very awkward, tenuous move
Julian Lane - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Mynydd Rach

bigbobbyking - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Chris Allan, Peter Hill

Couldn't reach the jugs v easily. Sort feet out, hold onto crimpy side pull and mantel with right hand to get right foot up, hooray jug!
Batt - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Jules, James Hoyes

Very technical.
Hoyes - 2nd dog - 19/May/13 with Rachel B

hotfeet - Lead - 05/May/13 with David Dees

coffeepot - 2nd - 05/May/13 with jelaby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Nigel Bond - TR - 20/Apr/13 with Bern Hardman

belay bunny turned bad - Sent β - 07/Apr/13 with mark R

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

Tamati - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13

woodsy - Lead - 02/Nov/12 with tom

Laurence Cowton - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with Celyn, Vince

catblack - Lead β - 07/Oct/12 with Claire

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Steve Woolass

Dan_Carroll - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/12

Gumery - TR O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Clint

Hidden - TR - Sep/12

down climbed from crux, gear too close to ground. Clean top rope but big reach for me, quite glad I didn't lead it. By the way the flake is hollow and loose.
gordonday - TR β - 26/Jul/12 with clive

tsjx - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Wayne, Bruce

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12

Holds at the top were nearly too hot to use.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with C. Prescott

Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/12

Ahab - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

took a couple of goes to commit to the layback/reach to the break, awesome little problem tho would have been better to solo above a pad as would be a waste of micro rp's to fall off
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with oliwarlow

Matt Cooke - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Tom Jagger

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Downclimbed the initial hard move first time, then braced myself and made the long reach to the break. Very simple climbing after that!
Chris Ellyatt - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with James Lismore

fell off the (well-protected) crux, took me a bit to figure out, very easy climbing above
GermanAlex - Lead dog - 13/Mar/12 with Dan

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Mar/12

ste_d - Solo O/S - 29/Feb/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Dan Mckinlay - 2012

john lynch - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/11 with Lewis Andrew

NickJH - Lead - Nov/11 with LiamG

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - 2nd - 30/Oct/11 with The Bad Cough

Matt Cooke - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Rosh

lozowen - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/11

GPN - Solo - 15/Oct/11 with Loz, Shaw Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Courtenay

DeanD - Lead - 01/Oct/11

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with liv_the_div

First move, scarry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ffdalton - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Dean Dalton

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Jeremy Windsor

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Big Reach.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

shaky2 - 2nd - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

samsimpson - Solo O/S - 21/May/11

Set up as a top rope. Ed came off once. Most found it very difficult and had to have multiple goes. I climbed it cleanly just about.
Alaric - TR O/S - 01/May/11 with Laura, Colin McM, Helen, Ed, Paul L, Neil

laura wilson - TR - 01/May/11

matthewpwilson - TR dnf - 01/May/11

Ed Griffin - TR O/S - 01/May/11

Skell - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Kelvin

climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Ruth, Kieran, Petey

Faffed around trying to get a suitable placement for the initial crack. Not too demanding.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Dreadlocks Chris

willworkforfoodjnr - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Alex Thompson

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Tom Nichols

Ian Broome - Solo rpt - 29/Mar/11

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/11 with Guy

CRiddiford - 2nd - 24/Mar/11 with Jake Young

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Caroline

sian88 - TR O/S - 22/Mar/11

pie_eater_pete - 2nd - 14/Mar/11 with bwestwood

bwestwood - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/11

David Smith - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

rurp - Lead O/S - 2011

PAJames - 2011

DeanD - 2011

DeanD - 2011

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/10

burto - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with rozzy

A Whillans route that isn't thuggy! I had to use my loaf to climb the crux. Gear is just adequate.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Pete

APuddy - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/10

stuckonarock - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Charles, Karo

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Oct/10

very nice up the rib to great holds.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Jamie

All in the first move (on suspect gear).
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/10 with Jim

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Quite hard, nice climb
payeo20 - Lead - 03/Jul/10

richyclimb - 2nd - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10

On first attempt lost nerve where crack runs out, tried to down climb and ended up back down on earth rather rapidly. On second attempt, got better gear in and, after some goading from my belayer, managed to get up the sucker. This is a good climb with the hardest parts at the bottom!
Lumbering Oaf - Lead RP - 26/Jun/10 with Rachel Spraggs

another fingery route, with a tall move to reach the break.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Duncan Bourne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/10

philboy - 2nd - 07/Jun/10 with matt g

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Mark Rankine

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Tristan Graham

gw66 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

PenJD - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10 with Simon Kincaid

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

vanderz - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

joese7en - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Well protected, good moves
mark20 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Rob Truckle

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Paul

Pete Horn - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Charles

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/09

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Ben Dorey

Robbie Massey - TR - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/09

danm - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Brian (Smacks), Jake

Tim W - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Darren Miller

mikej - TR - 15/Sep/09 with Rick Naylor

nice climb.looks easier than what it is but i would still say its an easy 5b
davross1986 - 2nd O/S - Sep/09 with Dean Dalton

Really nice and not too hard. Rather windy though. First decent HVS lead.
Troy Tempest - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 14/Aug/09

Sam W - 2nd - 18/Jul/09 with Tom Bide

Hidden - 08/Jul/09

Have backed off this twice before! Felt ok when I did it. Little bit run out.
Si dH - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/09 with Olly

wolverine - 25/Jun/09

danm - Lead - 04/Jun/09

Apparently have done before.
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 31/May/09 with Iain

Found it trickier than when I lead it!
catt - 2nd rpt - 31/May/09 with Morgan Woods

ellie macpherson - Lead - 25/May/09 with mike henesey

Ben Sidsaph - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Guy Buckingham

Dave Heaton - 2nd - 24/May/09

tommytwotone - Lead rpt - 02/May/09 with Nigel

Hidden - Solo rpt - 24/Apr/09

Typical quality grit micro-route. Small cams/zeros were useful.
catt - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Paul Winder

Russell Lovett - 2nd β - 19/Apr/09 with alan taylor

A Downing - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with DJ

deejmonkey - Lead - 18/Apr/09 with Andy D

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

morganator - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/09

Technical. Not too hard, but I'm glad I can lead harder.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09 with PeakDJ

Hidden - 05/Mar/09

was expecting gear just after crux, its 3 more worrying moves away!! gear placement before crux is very battered, and not ideal anymore.
Milne - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Steve poole

BigToe - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Milne

thomasmouse - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Chris wilson - 2nd - 14/Oct/08 with John F

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 12/Oct/08 with Jay

Benrj - Lead dog - 12/Oct/08

excellent, the crux is getting from the first shallow flake to the second juggy break.
Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Graeme Hammond

Mark D - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Steffen

chrisbussell - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with Debbie Porter

brian watson - Lead β - 27/Sep/08 with scott titt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Luke Allen

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/08

deacondeacon - Lead - 13/Sep/08 with Paul

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Dave P

jw231 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Al Benson

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/08

al99 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Aug/08

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Jim and Guido

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

craig d - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Simon Kincaid

LankyPaddy - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Sophie Price

SKippy5 - 2nd - 31/May/08 with Ed Northridge

mje1398 - 2nd dog - 18/May/08 with John M

Chazz - Solo O/S - 06/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/08

Ian Broome - Solo rpt - 21/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Graham T - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Annelise

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/07

dicky79 - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07

Neil Mackenzie - 2nd - 01/Sep/07 with Tim

SeanB - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Tim

Took a wee bit of working out. Great moves all the way, packs alot into a short route. Ace!!
beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Eccie, Sean + Lewis

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Matt

timharrison - Lead O/S - 21/May/07 with Hedley Proctor

Previously led with fall in Nov 03.
Stig - Lead rpt - 20/May/07 with Maciek

Hidden - Solo - 10/May/07

Joe Costello - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Liam

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07

Lovely, balancy moves at the crux.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/07 with Caralynr

Caralynh - 2nd - 18/Apr/07 with Nick Smith

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hammy - 2nd - 02/Mar/07 with Simon McCabe, Steve Hall

nai - Lead - Mar/07 with Tim

tlr - 2nd - Mar/07 with Pom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

kingholmesy - 2nd O/S - 2007 with SteveOc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/06

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Dec/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/06

Nicos - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/06 with solo

kitkat78 - 2nd - Oct/06 with Nick McK

bobette - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/06 with mike

johnwilson123 - TR O/S - Sep/06 with paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/06

Hidden - Solo - 10/Aug/06

Jacob Ram - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with elisa best

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/06

Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Gareth

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Reeve

2shortplanks - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06

Mike H - 2nd - 22/Apr/06 with Roy Broadbridge

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2006 with Danos

Neil Adams - 2006

reg_measures - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/05

BruceW - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Al. W.

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05

Theeni - Lead - Apr/05 with Reg Measures

darren1 - 20/Feb/05

Chris M - 2005

leon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Amanda Skeldon

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 31/Jul/04

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04 with Slim Beam

lukea - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/04 with Al

eduardo - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04

One fall. Hardest lead to date!
Stig - Lead dog - 16/Nov/03 with Geraldine Lawless

PenJD - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/03 with Jim and Matt

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Jul/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/03

mel holmes - Lead - 18/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead - Apr/03

kp64zl - 2nd - Apr/03

Ropeboy - Solo - 26/Mar/03

After J. Dawes (solo)!
Carl Smethurst - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/03 with Ian Pickles

cem - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/03 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 2003

jamiev - Solo - 21/Jul/02

Phil West - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/02 with Shaun Walby

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/02 with Phil West

Phil West - 2nd β - 11/May/02 with Paul Winder

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/02

chris sm - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/02

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

martroberts - Lead O/S - 07/May/00

tlr - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Boy - 2000

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 22/May/99

Coel Hellier - Lead - 1999

r0b - Solo O/S - 29/Nov/98

antroy - Lead - 10/Jul/98

Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/97

craig h - Solo rpt - 10/Aug/96

John Marsland - 2nd - 20/Apr/96 with Dave Mould

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/95 with Johnny boy

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/95

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 13/May/95 with Hugh

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Apr/95

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/95 with Richard Bradbury

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/94

Podling - 2nd - Aug/94

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 09/Oct/93 with Greg Cunningham

leathers - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/93 with Charlotte Evans

Andy Say - Solo - 28/Jun/92

Roget - Solo rpt - 02/Aug/91

rob.grafton - 2nd - 30/Jul/91 with Bruce

Chris the Tall - Solo O/S - May/91

steve taylor - Solo - Jul/90 with stumpy

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/May/90 with jon

Billg - Solo - 19/Sep/89 with Alan Doig

Hidden - Lead - 27/May/89

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 30/Oct/88

craig h - Lead O/S - 22/May/88 with Charlie and Matt (Stalybridge)

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/87

Hidden - Solo - 31/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 1986

stp - Solo O/S - 17/Nov/85

Hammy - Solo - 25/Sep/85

Billg - Lead - 13/Jul/85 with Dave Gregory

John Marsland - Solo - 04/Jul/85

Tom V - 1985

Mark Kemball - Solo - 21/Mar/84

sadams - Solo - 06/Jan/84

Dave Musgrove - 03/Dec/83 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/83

Ken Taylor - 2nd - 10/Sep/82 with Roger Wilson

Hidden - Solo - 09/Apr/81

andy gittins - 1980

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jeffsheard, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Ragnaar, Pete Nugent, Hidden, Chi Cheng, Simon Fyfe, Hidden, alimckay, Rachel Loaring, nevereatyellowsnow, Hidden, JLS

Voting
Total votes cast 177
hard E10 of 60
E10 of 60
easy E12 of 60
hard HVS7 of 60
HVS48 of 60
easy HVS3 of 60
hard VS0 of 60
VS0 of 60
easy VS0 of 60
hard 5c0 of 62
5c0 of 62
easy 5c0 of 62
hard 5b12 of 62
5b47 of 62
easy 5b3 of 62
hard 5a0 of 62
5a0 of 62
easy 5a0 of 62
3 Stars1 of 55
2 Stars40 of 55
1 Star14 of 55
0 Stars0 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
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Style of ascent

Soloed46 of 333 (13.8%)
Lead162 of 333 (48.6%)
Followed86 of 333 (25.8%)
Toproped12 of 333 (3.6%)
Bouldered1 of 333 (0.3%)
Unknown26 of 333 (7.8%)

'Climbed'125 of 333 (37.5%)
clean O/S169 of 333 (50.8%)
clean β6 of 333 (1.8%)
clean rpt21 of 333 (6.3%)
clean RP2 of 333 (0.6%)
dogged6 of 333 (1.8%)
dnf1 of 333 (0.3%)
Unknown3 of 333 (0.9%)