UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand slab and juggy bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Cropper 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage Severe Challenge , Stanage Severes (UKC)

Feedback

User Date Notes
NickLanderCMC 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Hard move above the flake. Can protect with cams in the pockets
Show beta
βeta: Hard move above the flake. Can protect with cams in the pockets
orge 2 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was relatively "friendly" really... It is a bit bold, as the gear is not great and a distance away. However the moves aren't too hard and its not sustained. I actually felt Duo Cracks was more technical (but better protected). Both of them both of them are fine clims though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was relatively "friendly" really... It is a bit bold, as the gear is not great and a distance away. However the moves aren't too hard and its not sustained. I actually felt Duo Cracks was more technical (but better protected). Both of them both of them are fine clims though.
2RoyalAnglian 31 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i agree it is a commiting climb! funny enuf i lead this just after me & my mate had a bash at overhanging chimney & failed!!? i managedto get a no.2 cam in2 1 of the poks on the slab itself the rest of it was "on yer own son!!". a great climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i agree it is a commiting climb! funny enuf i lead this just after me & my mate had a bash at overhanging chimney & failed!!? i managedto get a no.2 cam in2 1 of the poks on the slab itself the rest of it was "on yer own son!!". a great climb.
Mal Grey 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree this is more than a tad bold for a Severe, as the protection is some way below & has to be carefully arranged. The crux could be 4a-4b, but no 4c. Somewhat committing though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree this is more than a tad bold for a Severe, as the protection is some way below & has to be carefully arranged. The crux could be 4a-4b, but no 4c. Somewhat committing though!
Si dH 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I struggled up this one, although ive not been climbing long. Wasnt sure if I could use the left-hand arete higher up, but if not its definitely hard for severe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I struggled up this one, although ive not been climbing long. Wasnt sure if I could use the left-hand arete higher up, but if not its definitely hard for severe.

Logged Ascents

1084 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 38 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 92
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cave Crawl

Grade: S 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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