There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Follow the straight crack as it gradually widens. Difficulties escalate to a wide and awkward exit. Big gear is useful. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Wide Cracks , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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THE.WALRUS | 25 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Tough route for the grade - almost off-width. Take big gear. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tough route for the grade - almost off-width. Take big gear. |
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Alexander_Metcalfe | 16 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Loose head-sized piece of rock on the right hand of the crack, halfway up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Loose head-sized piece of rock on the right hand of the crack, halfway up. |
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mountainremedy | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Couple of loose blocks lower down, care needed. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Couple of loose blocks lower down, care needed. |
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Iain Thow | 16 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Horribly thrutchy, but par for the course for a wide grit crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Horribly thrutchy, but par for the course for a wide grit crack. |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: bog standard HS, good jams all the way up, take a big piece of gear for the top or alternatively you can place a small one deep in the crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: bog standard HS, good jams all the way up, take a big piece of gear for the top or alternatively you can place a small one deep in the crack. |
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Sankey | 11 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Think it is on the hard side of HS, defintely a tussle at the top. Good fun though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Think it is on the hard side of HS, defintely a tussle at the top. Good fun though. |
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LakesWinter | 24 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ok, I seem to remember get left arm inside crack, left foot in, right foot and hands on holds on the outside and thrutch, not too bad. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ok, I seem to remember get left arm inside crack, left foot in, right foot and hands on holds on the outside and thrutch, not too bad. |
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LakesWinter | 24 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's severe in my guide! Severe is probably ok, maybe HS, never VS, jamming and wedging techniques obligatory | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's severe in my guide! Severe is probably ok, maybe HS, never VS, jamming and wedging techniques obligatory |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)