16m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing ascent for its day - it still sees much floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block under the roof. Bridge right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily. © Rockfax

FA. Morley Wood 1926

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, The Peak: past and Present, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 3 Star Stanage.


ClimberDateStyle
marconi 13/Nov Lead O/S
with frances
Hidden 21/Oct Lead β
Dan Geh 09/Oct Lead O/S

Nice moves

with Paddy
thetradlad 08/Oct 2nd dog

Feet first for crux 1, crux 2 took a little time to middle through

Mark D 08/Oct Lead O/S
Mr Wild 11/Sep Lead rpt

Don't know why I made such a mess of it last time

Kirill 11/Sep 2nd
with Igor, Ilia
ig248 11/Sep Lead
with Kirill
mattlyons 01/Sep Lead dnf

So close, foot slipped at the crux

with Alex, Paddy
PeteWilson 01/Sep Lead O/S

failed to think about bridging, and kept going right to do some horrible mantel / hump move. even harder for the grade this way!!

with josh
amccann 01/Sep Lead rpt
griffithpatrick 01/Sep 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 29/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug Lead
sann1458 06/Aug Lead O/S
with Brightwell
trouserburp 31/Jul Lead dog

Muffed THE move. About an hour hanging around figuring out workaround (big stretch up, up up to sloper)

bpclarke 21/Jul Lead dog

Had to rest to do the hard move up and right - should go next time.

Andrew Abraham 17/Jul Lead rpt
with Paul Deane
Andrew Abraham 26/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul Deane
Hidden 18/Jun Lead β
CraigOsborne 30/May Lead dnf
w-watson 30/May Lead
lost.arrow 28/May 2nd dog

No strength or style.

with Stu Sherwood
Mike505 08/May Lead O/S

(Spoilers) Glad to get the onsight, found a brilliant hands off rest mid traverse by hanging upside down from the break .

Senna 05/May Lead O/S
with Ned
ned_85 05/May Lead G/U
TomRiddelsdell 02/May Lead O/S
with Alex Horton, AmyDeath, Shane Williams
Horton 02/May 2nd dog

Fell on the crux but it was heaving it down with rain, blowing a gale and we were obviously in a hurry to get off the wall. Would like to try again in the dry

jonhowson 24/Apr 2nd rpt

Still awesome and felt easier today.

with Mark
MYox 24/Apr Lead O/S

Really excellent. Ropework!

andrzej kierzek 23/Apr Lead dnf

Fell from the crux above the overhang. Same in second attempt.

with Rachel
MichaelConstantinou 21/Apr Lead dog
with Dan Simonis
codenamel 10/Apr Lead O/S
jamiejsn 10/Apr 2nd dog
bigdrew 10/Apr Lead rpt

Fell off ages ago - Much easier knowing what to do!

with Cam, Eve
kermit_uk 10/Apr Lead dog
Hidden ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S

I thought it was all over once I'd swung up onto the block... must not have read the description properly. 'The' move is actually ok and in perfect balance. Really great route!

Sophie Nunn 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Well that was a struggle! 1926?!

with Rob, Mel B
FlavioL1989 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 12/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
JamesRich 09/Sep/15 2nd dog
Stanners 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

My opinion of the route is very much reflected by what was going through mine and I'm sure everyone else's head as they 'climbed' it.. "What the **** is going on?!" :D Hard, Safe, Fun. Chuffed to bits to onsight another classic.

with James Rich
Hidden 06/Sep/15 2nd
nick ferro 06/Sep/15 Lead
theomoore 31/Aug/15 Lead β
mark4344 10/Aug/15 Lead dog

Gutted not to get rock over 1st time. Tough move.

with Dave Rich
theotherpetehill 09/Aug/15 Lead dog

Another pig of a route. Who was Kelly anyway?

with Adam Brown
adam 24 09/Aug/15 2nd β

First climbed in 1926!!! It's bloody hard.

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead β
jonhowson 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Mega! A route that rewards committed climbing. If the crux move is 5b it's high 5b for sure, managing to be strenuous and delicate in equal measures. The 'poor' rest is hands free, I was able to sit down knee-bar.

with Katy Mouritz
Hidden 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead β
DavidR 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Jackwd 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A hard route for HVS! Shouldn't imagine it ever really gets much easier either...

Ciderslider 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd
eel 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Al
Sam McCarthy 12/Jun/15 Lead G/U
with JemG
JemG 12/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Sam Mcarthy
Hidden 10/Jun/15 TR
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 -
DanChad 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Quite sustained traversing on jugs beneath the overhang. Not too tricky though.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 23/May/15 2nd dog

Gutted to fall off this as I led it clean about 18 years ago. Great flash by The Danimal. Made it look easy.

DanOsb 21/May/15 Lead dnf

Ed decided to sandbag me and told me to stay low, don't stay low-it doesn't work. Awesome hands off rest on the first block!

with Ed
Harry Holmes 10/May/15 Lead O/S
tim newton 04/May/15 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 04/May/15 Lead dog

Wow, I've done this before but can't even repeat it! Probably because I do the silly hand traverse version but still.

JEP 26/Apr/15 Lead rpt
spragglerocks 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Misha
Misha 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Great route, the good holds keep coming but it's a tough one! Reckon it's E1 and hard 5b. Good gear but committing moves and exciting positions. Used a handjam on the rockover type crux with made it reasonably secure. Being on the blunt end helped!

with Rach
Kevster 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Kevster 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
climbingrick 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Montecore 19/Apr/15 2nd dog

Found the overhang easy but annoyingly slipped at start of slab. Reckon I should lead this next time.

with Joris Roulleau
Joris.Roulleau 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Rikki
Kevster 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Kevster 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead RP
Wizzy 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Probably E1. Fair bit harder than FBD

andyclimber 18/Apr/15 2nd dog
robgixer 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
mattlyons 18/Apr/15 2nd β
with Harry
tcn_2002 18/Apr/15 Lead
pelvoux 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lee1234 14/Apr/15 2nd dog
elbeanio 11/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Mr Wild 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Fell trying a very low sequence, incorrectly read the description. Seconded after Dave lead on the gear.

Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
keith leonard ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
craig.england1 ??/2015 2nd
Hannes B 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Krissy, Sasha
simon kimber 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Outstanding climb with a weird move that took me ages to work out

with Rich Howell
tebs 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with Adam
benkelsey 16/Oct/14 Lead G/U

on Shaun's gear

with rory wadsworth, James Oswald, Shaun Humphreys
ruairidhwad 16/Oct/14 Lead β

pre placed gear

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 16/Oct/14 Lead G/U
with Rory
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
Albachoss 11/Oct/14 Lead β

Nice transition from steep jug pulling to delicate balancy slab climbing.

dswansonlow 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 11/Oct/14 2nd β
with Jake, Dougie
RKirke 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Freshers
BenL 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Stroppy 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Stroppy 11/Oct/14 Lead rpt
jacobjlloyd 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sophie
tombushell 11/Oct/14 2nd
with Ed
Lenny 05/Oct/14 Lead G/U

GU

pearson9596 05/Oct/14 -
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd
Ian MK 14/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Anna
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Alex Newton 02/Sep/14 2nd dog
benkelsey 01/Sep/14 Lead dnf

end of the day, took a few baby falls

with Shaun Humphreys
Andypeak 31/Aug/14 Lead dnf

all of us fell at the crux and ended up abbing for the gear.

shaunhumphreys 28/Aug/14 Lead dnf

hard! hopefully get it next time

Hoyes 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Technical crux.

Batt 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
mrteale 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
Marti999 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S

was hanging off the overhang for about half an hour try to work out how to do it

with Debbie
wazzalad20 ?/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Hvs my arse. Harder than any of the E2s I tried this weekend. Can't remember the last time I failed on a HVS.....so its not hvs then:-)

Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd
climberchristy 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good route. First route of day so felt quite stiff. Gets HVS 5b in BMC guide but maybe E1 5c as gets here on UKC?

with Ben Cole
zadurrani 12/Jul/14 2nd RP

A very exposed traverse

Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
MrBIond 15/Jun/14 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
dannyboy83 26/May/14 Lead O/S
funsized 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 25/May/14 Lead G/U

Fell off on the crux, trying to go the low way then tried it again, planning to go high but ended up low again and was somehow just able to do it.

mc fifi 24/May/14 2nd O/S
James Oswald 19/May/14 Lead O/S

Cool heel hook traverse to a bridging/ knee bar rest. After this the crux is fairly hard. Done with a upside down hand jamming rockover onto the hold on the side of the block. Super.

Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
MD 17/May/14 Lead dnf

Fell trying to get established on the slab. I think I know what I did wrong, one to come back to.

with Alison C
pebbles 17/May/14 2nd

all ok, move onto lip is fine, crux for me was burly moves to reach holds on top of block, but all doable and good gear.

with mick green
quickdrawmcraw 17/May/14 2nd
Hidden 11/May/14 Lead
petecallaghan 03/May/14 2nd dog

Found the heel-hook traverse under the lip OK but took quite a few goes to work out the bridge and rock over

with Chris Brown
Maz J 03/May/14 Lead
the power 27/Apr/14 Lead RP
with deacon
Olli-C 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Waddle
Scott Anderson 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Wanted this for a while! hard move getting off the block!

with Gav
Hidden 21/Apr/14 2nd rpt
etrillaud 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
JHC 19/Apr/14 Lead
dr_botnik 01/Apr/14 Lead rpt

dead hard. like a frozen rubiks cube.

Adam_42 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Balls!

with Will Evans
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead
chris smith 09/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Fell off crux twice.

with Malcolm watson
Andypeak 09/Mar/14 2nd
greenclimb 01/Mar/14 Lead rpt
amccann ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
rob.grafton ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
rustaldo 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Took full advantage of the rest and tried loads of weird stuff to make the rock over. Finally managed it only to see my 2nd and 3rd completely mug me (and the route) off and bypass the crux! ***

Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd
bwestwood 16/Nov/13 -
dj_brigham05 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Cool moves. Pretty hard and awkward!!

Hidden 13/Nov/13 2nd
JamesTurnbull97 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Hung around on the big flake for a while and the half descent rest sitting on the edge of the block with feet bridged before commiting

Dave Turnbull 10/Nov/13 Lead
rurp 08/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Failed again! 2 goes, 20 years apart same result! Try again when I'm 60.

Jonny Nick 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
geoff.comley 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant!

the power 25/Sep/13 2nd dog

Well ard

with rob
dr_botnik 25/Sep/13 Lead dog

rested on ropes at crux after giving it a fair go, got it done after a proper fight, one that ill remember.

with ken, Phil Taylor
Short&Savage 22/Sep/13 Lead β
with Steve Closs
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
DaveMo 21/Sep/13 2nd
DaveMo 21/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
DaveFidler 08/Sep/13 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
TonyF 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with David
sgl0jd 03/Sep/13 Lead β

Could not work out what to do first go! Got it second try

Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead dnf
ranga 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
knighty 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Got up to the triple stack, but too pumped to traverse round the stack and reach up for the flake. Slouched onto gear (rob's blue cam). I'll be back in a year for the lead.

knighty 25/Aug/13 2nd dog

Weighted the rope trying the crux rock over. Got it second time (albeit using the tall man moves) to the break above!

Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jack.H.92 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
emitto 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Bomber gear up to the crux, run out above but its an easy slab finish. Crux is tricky, bit of a bunched up crank off the right hand (I used a jam).

MikeLeeds 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 30/Jun/13 Lead

Nice to get it clean this time (1 rest 5 year ago)

Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
Theeni 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joseph
jrccrosby 29/Jun/13 2nd
tobydunford 15/Jun/13 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Tala M 07/Jun/13 2nd dog

One fall but then I am 5 months pregnant so not a bad attempt.

ColinD 01/Jun/13 2nd
lukehodson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
caradoc 25/May/13 Lead
with Becky
braders94 19/May/13 2nd RP
with Rob Cooper
Andy Hardy 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead dnf
Lumbering Oaf 30/Apr/13 Lead dog

Rested at same place AGAIN.

hotfeet 30/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Matthew
jakenichol 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Dave Heaton 17/Feb/13 2nd
john lynch 01/Feb/13 Lead rpt
with Joe Holden
gazfellows 06/Jan/13 Lead

fell on the crux! did the route after a good hand full of try's, but did it with a really long reach, being 6ft4. couldn't get the crux rock over... hard for the grade!!!

with Billy
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
1poundSOCKS 02/Nov/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead
Graeme Hammond 16/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Mike Tutt, Trevor Wilson
helenstuart 01/Sep/12 2nd RP
with Mike
stuart34 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Rob84 31/Aug/12 2nd dog
helenstuart 18/Aug/12 Lead dnf
freemanTom 21/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Numerous attempts and slumps on rope working out th sequence. Should get it next time.

with Sarah friend of Amy, Amy Till
Dibdawg 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twiggers
nai 14/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Mark
jwpil 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Cliff
David Kay 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Spent a good half-hour chilling out in break!

with Simon Coldrick
Jake Young 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Did the move at the lip and foot slipped (blame it on the hole in the shoe) fell off. pulled ropes and did it clean same sequence etc.

with Jem
WayneR ?/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead rpt
Sam Simpson 14/May/12 Lead O/S

Incredible route

Tom Doldon 14/May/12 2nd O/S

I did it but think i went too far left

Hidden 13/May/12 2nd
Double Knee Bar 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with TomBond
gingerwolf 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Glenn
Somerset swede basher 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with Laurence Davis
r@bag 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Tim Rodgers 12/May/12 2nd
Oliver Houston 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd rpt
Matt Cooke 05/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
scottidog 28/Apr/12 2nd dog
MoWalker3 01/Apr/12 -
with Cormac
will9911 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tebs 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt

E1 5c this time!

deacondeacon 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S

cool moves

with tim H.
jacktomlinson ??/2012 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead
with Andrea Morgan, Tim Hill
admackie ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2012 Lead G/U

Tried and failed a couple of times over the years. Quite easy when you know how.

with Andrew Bevan
disturbed_one51 02/Nov/11 Lead
with Wee man
Nigel Bond 02/Nov/11 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Jonathan Hall 02/Nov/11 2nd

Had to do a nails side pull thing to get up, felt a touch tricky for the grade.

Brannock 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S

E1 feels about right

Sam Cooke 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb, regardless of the grade. Deserves every one of the stars.

with Lucy Cook
Hidden 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mikeshewring 22/Oct/11 Lead dnf
ian d f 29/Sep/11 2nd rpt

Tried on lead but got stuck at crux. Steve then led and showed me how it's done.

elCapitano 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Took a while to get the move. Cracking route.

with Kenny
Harry Thorpe 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Awesome, technical rather than strengthy at the lip

with Sarah Rixham
ChrisBrooke 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
Matt Shepherd 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 07/Aug/11 2nd
with Andy Houseman
Jonesy_A 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with NJSharp
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 26/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Steve J
Keendan 26/Jul/11 Lead dnf

found a good kneebar which meant I spent over half an hour at the crux - and then fell off!! embarrassing, as my friends insisted on sticking around to "watch my technique".

Keendan 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
antdav 23/Jul/11 2nd RP
with Wayne
waynem1985 23/Jul/11 Lead RP

I spent15 mins at the crux trying evry kind of techniqe. After getting very pumped I then had to lower off. After a rest i got back up and nailed it. Very happy bunny.

allyrocke 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 14/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Jamie
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Fran S8 10/Jul/11 Lead
maxkellock 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
maxkellock 09/Jul/11 TR β
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Nick Rundall 28/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with Jon Pemberton
Will Hunt 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Halla Parkin, Dafydd Llywelyn
Dafydd Llywelyn 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Halla Parkin, Will Hunt
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
AsleepOnBelay 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Superb! Have wanted to do this for a while, and was glad I was fresh when I got on it. Went pretty much straight up from the big hold in the middle. Loads of good gear, had a bit of rope drag from a sling near the start.

with Jim PCC
Jim Slater 02/Jun/11 2nd rpt
davewsargent 01/Jun/11 2nd rpt
pie_eater_pete 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
davewsargent 08/May/11 TR
Hidden 05/May/11 Lead
Lumbering Oaf 02/May/11 Lead dog

Fell off at the stretchy traverse.... next time (fourth time's a charm)

Hoyes 02/May/11 2nd rpt
with Matt B
gordonday 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with clive
barrowclough 29/Apr/11 Lead dog

Go low!!!

with Thomas Delaney
Reds 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Fell off twice

Peter Holder 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with paul Blurton, Dave Green, Nick Valente
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead RP
tprebs 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with John O'Hara
Hidden 22/Apr/11 TR dog
ChrisBrooke 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
ojp 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Dave, Robin
Dave Foster 09/Apr/11 Lead β

Watched a couple of lads before us so had the beta. Steady with one balancey move.

with Si and Robin
robin_hackney 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Led on Dave's gear. Bloody Awesome. Good challenge getting established above the roof.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
willworkforfoodjnr 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Really close! Hung around at the crux for a good 15mins before committing. Superb moves :)

chris_B 09/Apr/11 Lead
mark20 06/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Tim_C7 ?/Apr/11 -
with Kevin Kilroy
manwithacam 27/Mar/11 Lead

Mike bet me a pint I couldnt onsight this. I didnt onsight it because I'd watched people on it all morning, got a whole lot of beta, and had mid-climb tips. But I still claimed the ale!

with Mike R
timrowland 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Dan P, jmjw
jmjw 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Dan P, Tim R
jack89 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Wow. Awesome going from strenuous roofs to delicate slabs, good contrast indeed.

with teague
John Lewis 20/Mar/11 2nd
with Tim
tim newton 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

fun, fairly easy steep climbing leads to a good rest and bomber pro, followed by a delicate hard 5b move....hvs

Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
crispyboy 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with denzel
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd
howlingbaboon 06/Mar/11 2nd dnf
with Gav, Rob
skittles 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
uphillnow ??/2011 -

NOT SURE OF FIRST ASCENT DATE, BUT MOST RECENTLY LEAD IT WITH RIK AND MATT ALLATT 24/8/2006

stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead dog
Alistair Corbett 14/Nov/10 2nd
sam corbett 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with John Corbett
Andy Moles 14/Nov/10 Lead β

mostly on clare's gear. really cold.

with Clare
Hardonicus 13/Nov/10 Lead dog

I reckon mid grade E1 for the onsight. The clock is ticking and working out the move is very tricky. I think E1 hard 5b is fair. The move is so sweet though. Overhanging pump to delicate slab in about 1 second. Rockfax bad beta about attempting to go low.

with nick a
Liam Snodden 24/Oct/10 -
john lynch 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
nickmattia 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Double hand jams worked for me when doing the crux move to gain the slab.

stephenhartley 10/Oct/10 2nd
remus 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S

VS 5a. More jugs than you can shake a stick at!

SteveM 30/Sep/10 2nd
with Alex
hamish2016 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
Russ 17/Sep/10 2nd

Excellent! Hard moves!

with Dave Saxby
thecurlyone 04/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Lead cleanly until the move to bridge out right.

thecurlyone 04/Sep/10 TR dog
Roberto ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 27/Aug/10 Lead dog

The hardest HVS I've ever climbed.

Dan Lane 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S

can't see what all the fuss is about really, it's a tricky move, but nothing ridiculous.

with James McHaffie
GrahamPlant 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie Armatage
ChrisBrooke 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
with John Inkpen
philboy 11/Aug/10 2nd
Cake 11/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Phil B
Martin Haworth 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Disappointed that I had a rest

with Guido
joese7en 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
willson 24/Jul/10 Lead
with ben
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Tough for 1 well-protected move

with Colin Struthers
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ben_250 28/Jun/10 Lead β

one hard move to gain break after overhang, nice route

with Tom
Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd
7om 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S

'that' move was the craziest move I've ever pulled on any climb!

Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
phildavies84 27/Jun/10 TR dog

Stephan tried to lead. Had to set up a top rope to get gear, so dicided to have ago. Went up instead of right at the crux and felt desperate

Lumbering Oaf 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Got pumped trying to get around the pedestal. Next time I'll crack this one!

chris sm 26/Jun/10 2nd
Tim M 26/Jun/10 Lead dog
Irn Bruce 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd dog
dan ely 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

hard and scary. had to cut loose with feet and hand traverse

with terry
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 11/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Jamie
AndyFrank 07/Jun/10 2nd
9fingerjon 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Nils
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead dnf
Tez29 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Direct version.

with Mousey
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 05/May/10 2nd dnf
wi11 02/May/10 2nd dog
with Chris Gee
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
zara bloomfield 24/Apr/10 2nd
with adrian paisey
Hardcore Pat 24/Apr/10 Lead dog
ian d f 24/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Took a bit of a swing on this one. Climbed back up and realized neither myself or my second wanted to climb so gave up!

with Cameron
jkarran 17/Apr/10 Lead

Somehow muffed the crux leaving me teetering on smears unable to move up. Worked out ok eventually. The steep bit is great fun.

with Duncan
duncan 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt
JDDD 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead β
LoopyLou ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

This is the second time I've led this and enjoyed the crux again. Easy to miscue. Yoga has payed off as the move was in more comfortable reach this time.

with Thea Williams, Helen Lear
Boy 31/Jan/10 -
with Si Wilson, Adam , Nige Kershaw
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
cymjt ??/2010 -
JPGR ?/Nov/09 -
Lumbering Oaf 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Fannied around building up the nerve to 'go for it' at the crux. Holds are there where you need them. Horrid reach to attain slab - delicacy and strength required.

Batt 18/Oct/09 Lead

So nearly onsight but toe slipped at step across the void. Lowered off and did it again clean. NB, Some good wriggling action actually achieves a pretty good knee bar/toe hook rest at the block, then it's just a matter of getting across the void...! Really satisfying holding that move.

Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mark20 17/Oct/09 2nd dog

Nearly made the rockover

JCB42 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
natalietanzer 09/Oct/09 Lead β
decs 04/Oct/09 Lead

Spent quite a while trying different ways to do the move. Lots of retreating to the rest. Eventually found a way that worked.

with Dan
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd
petegruf 27/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Wobbled and dogged to the top of the block and fell off.

with mark l
Twisty 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice- almost fluffed the crux move but wasnt too pumped, so Ii could hang around and work it out!

with Nigel Stock
tebs 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

hvs 5b i think, but who cares, a great route - superb steep jug hauling for the indoor wall enthusiast followed by a superb move in a great position, always in balance but improbably so.

with Ian
Hidden 18/Sep/09 -
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead
colkurtz 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Sarah, Robb
drcorbasisgod 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Brown 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with James T
Billg 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Steve
Mike Soulby 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 08/Aug/09 Lead dnf

HVS????? Feels a lot harder!

smudge 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Felt more like 5c to me on the on-sight, got it clean and although it didn't feel too desperate it was difficult to read the crux. It was harder than plenty of the E1's on Stanage eg Millsoms, Morrisons, Saliva, Namenlos.

with Den Onac
Jim Slater 06/Aug/09 Lead dog

Continued lead after Tim backed off the crux. Rested on gear - the UKC grading makes me feel a little better!

with Tim Pearson
Skinny Kin 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Very very tough for HVS 5b in the definitive guide. I went high to cross the gap. It may make it harder for myself.

Hidden 11/Jul/09 2nd
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
riddle 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Superb fun

with Tom Elliot
thomasadixon 08/Jun/09 2nd rpt

The easier way this time, can see why it could get HVS now...

with andy
schaff 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd dog
mrtom ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Roger HSmith
Morgan Woods 31/May/09 Lead RP

2nd try after falling off the crux. Amazing climb, thuggish then very technical.

with Iain
catt 31/May/09 2nd

Barely seconded, no falls but there may have been some tension in that rope! Bloody hard work in the heat.

Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead dnf
odox 04/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Got up to the slab and couldn't finish the final move - great up to there though.

thomasadixon 02/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Nails. Traversed out 6 or 7 times to the (low version traversing on slopers, what high version!?) crux then fell off, lowered, went again and got it first time.

with Mike
IAmAStone 26/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Charlie Jefferson
tatz45 20/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd
lowersharpnose 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S

I loved it. The easy chimney - the big steep moves to the plinth - lots of gear - then I found the 5b method. A class route.

with PeakDJ
Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/09 2nd
BicepAndrews 21/Feb/09 Lead
with Emma Taylor
James_D ?/Feb/09 Lead dog

Terrible rope work, a careless fall and lots of hanging around. Great fun though.

with Tim
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 06/Dec/08 Lead dog
Sardien 06/Dec/08 2nd dog
Luke Brooks 30/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/08 2nd rpt
davidgent 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kunal
Pete Graham ?/Oct/08 Lead
with Rick Graham
sparkass 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Shorter and Pete Dolman
figfour 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
sopaz 19/Sep/08 TR
Shaw Brown 14/Sep/08 Lead

Don't believe Rockfax when it says go low, I did and fell off! Ok when you go high.

with Max
lukehunt 13/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead

Tricky crux move felt hard, v satisfying though.

with Will
Lev 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd dnf
Stig 22/Jul/08 Lead β

First clean ascent on third attempt.

with Charlie and Simon
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
roberto18 07/Jun/08 Lead

a tough outing and I think the upgrading is correct. harder than it looks.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Rob led this when it was HVS 5b,he said it was the hardest HVS he`d done to date!.I didn`t have a problem until the step right to get established on the face,made it ok...just! Top lead Rob.

lithos 04/Jun/08 Lead dnf

spanked !

with john byrne
craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd
NickHobbs 22/May/08 Lead O/S

Drizzling, gripped

with Murray
AndyL 19/May/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/May/08 2nd
Steerpike 15/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Tommo
Henry L Buckle 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

good fun, scary

with tom
andy gravestock 18/Feb/08 Lead O/S

amazing route. a real thriller. cig

Ben1983 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Having been up there before and not managed it was suprised at how easy it was, although fairly unobvious. p.s. andy gravestock did not onsight he got lowered off and had a demo of the moves

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
The Grist ??/2008 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 11/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Another James 04/Nov/07 2nd
with Pieter
scullymammoth 21/Oct/07 Lead dnf

need to move quicker must try harder

with Dave Lumb
tomparrott 21/Oct/07 Lead
with DJ
deejmonkey 21/Oct/07 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
andymoin 01/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Got to crux and fooled about for ages, then fell off after my desperate final efforts dint work. Had full body pump and curled up in the foetal position for 5 min at the bottom, mark tried the lead but couldn't get it either. Abbed for gear and what 2 ascents will nail it now i know.

with Mark Jarvie
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
tradguy 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
SecretSquirrel 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Good fun monkey moves through the overhang but hard move to stand up onto that right hand slab.

Pythonist 11/Aug/07 2nd rpt
with Hazel
kp64zl ?/Aug/07 TR
with Philip S
kitkat78 27/Jul/07 2nd

Finally an evening where free time and dry weather coincide... great route, even got a no-hands rest. Pretty scary lead I woudl imagine..

with Neil
Hidden 14/Jul/07 2nd dog
ksjs 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

took way longer on this than i should have - tricky on 1st acquaintance but fine. good climb

Piers Harley 07/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Bugger!

with Chris Grimble
Maciek ?/Jul/07 Lead RP

second attempt, hard but fantastic climb !!

with Piotr B.
Mick B 19/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Rick Asher
Pythonist 07/Jun/07 Lead rpt
Stig 20/May/07 Lead dog

Back for another attempt. Eventually did it the brutal way. Figured out the 'right' way now, back for the lead soon.

with Maciek
cmsg 28/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Monkey out merrily, stand up, think it's over, repeatedly fall off of thin step across. Dammit!

with Luke Gannarelli
Graeme Hammond 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Creeky
Hidden 18/Apr/07 Lead rpt
Caralynh 18/Apr/07 2nd dog

fell off the traverse first time. got it right the second time

Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
bigphil 15/Apr/07 2nd β
with Toby
IanJackson 06/Apr/07 Lead
with Big Ian
deejmonkey 04/Apr/07 TR
Bristoldave 17/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Fell quite a long way off this....

with Jon Hauser
ukb shark 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Duncan I ??/2007 -
sdht ??/2007 -
Si dH 02/Dec/06 Lead rpt

Failed onthis over a year. Nice to go back and do it ok. Think its worth 5c though, the move is very unusal and hard to read - UK grades are for an onsight! And also E1.

with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Ian Broome 21/Oct/06 Lead

Did Straight up move HVS 5a? Not right hand trav etc, too reachy!

with Andy Reeve
tumbling wizard 15/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Cameron13 10/Oct/06 2nd dnf
Nicos 03/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with ray
Alex@home ?/Oct/06 Lead RP

messed up the crux first go. got it second attempt after i found the hands off rest which gave me time to think about it

with gavin
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/06 Solo O/S

Think HVS 5b is about right, no harder than Flying Buttress Direct

Hidden 10/Sep/06 TR
Swirly 09/Sep/06 Lead dnf

Big fall, one cam ripped!!

with katherine
Castleclimber ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Fred Lyon
Hidden 24/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Ninjaladdy ?/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Eddie J.
colin milton 14/Jul/06 2nd
with fenclimb
Hidden 14/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Daniel Wrightson 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
dan gibson 15/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Hidden 06/May/06 Lead O/S
cem 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
jonnybull ??/2006 Lead β

First E1. Utterly gripped. Pulling onto the slab I popped my shoulder out but carried on anyway.

Pythonist 27/Nov/05 Lead O/S

Interesting finish, after travesing into the "bad" rest (it isn't, but requires flexibility). Not sure whether to traverse out right from this, or up and then step right. I did the top finish, and it seems E1 5c ish.

with Darcy Mitchell
Hidden ?/Nov/05 2nd O/S
Xav 29/Oct/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
Owen W-G 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Seale
Luke Brooks ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
clive-greenwood 21/May/05 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Horrox 21/May/05 2nd
reg_measures 02/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Torran Elson
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Rik Dawes ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
loonyclimber ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

I took the piss out of it and it`s reputation with over supplety, over confidence and over brutish behaviour. Maybe HVS after all then

Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Dave Bond 18/Oct/03 Lead
with Rich Hatton
Hidden 30/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Shad ?/Apr/03 2nd
Skell 01/Jan/03 Lead dog
with Dave
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead
AJ007 ?/Sep/02 2nd dog
Just Another Dave 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S

HVS at the time, and way harder than any of the (few) E2's I'd done. Safe, but, That move!...

with sam kendrick
reg_measures 02/Jul/02 2nd O/S
CrashMat Rob 11/May/02 2nd

I started this but could not finish, then followed Martin up it.

with Steve, Sahra, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
chris sm 04/Mar/02 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Budge 19/Jul/01 TR dog
with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates
Hidden 15/Jul/01 Lead β
Obi-Wan is lost... ?/Jun/01 Lead
Darragh ?/May/01 2nd dog
with Imogen & Bas
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/00 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 06/Aug/00 -
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Lead
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with .
Hidden 16/May/99 2nd rpt
sadams ?/May/99 Lead
Ropeboy 04/Aug/98 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/98 2nd
leathers ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Simon Vallance
martroberts 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 31/May/98 Lead

lovely route, excellent moves at crux

with Caley Latham
Phil West 09/May/98 Lead dnf

Got to the big block, but got pumped.

with David Atherton
Hidden 02/May/98 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/98 Lead
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
Chad123 ??/1998 -
goi.ashmore 01/Nov/97 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
Roget 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
nige pacer 13/Oct/96 2nd
Hidden ?/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/95 Lead
robtrooper ?/Aug/95 -
Hidden 20/Jun/95 2nd
rc ??/1995 Lead
nai ??/1995 2nd
with Cal
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden 09/Oct/93 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/Nov/92 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead

c.92

NickJH ??/1991 -
Stoney Boy 30/Sep/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Jim Waddington
samt 01/Oct/89 2nd

I seem to recall a struggle!

with Rob Weston
RichardMc 27/May/89 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hidden 21/Jun/87 2nd O/S
mark-abz 27/May/87 TR
with Sheena
Neil R 02/Nov/86 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Tom V 19/Apr/86 2nd
with Howie Darwin
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/85 Lead
Mike Owen 11/Oct/85 -
with Graham Lipp
Hidden 17/May/85 Lead
GordonHart ??/1985 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 19/Aug/84 2nd
charlesmfrench 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 29/May/82 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/81 -
with Kim Greenald
The Reaper 03/Aug/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/80 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/80 -
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/79 2nd
with Mark Brewster
duncan ?/Jun/79 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead
rogerskews ??/1975 -
with CMC Members
mikej 10/Jan/71 2nd
with John Bickerdike
Gordon Stainforth 16/Jul/70 Lead dnf

Fell off crux. Landed about 6ft above the deck.

with Tim James
mikej 29/Jun/69 Lead
with Geoff Williams
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 202
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 200
Votes cast 174
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set