Kelly's Overhang*** E1 5c
[Hilary Bloor on the crux of the classic Kelly's Overhang (E1 5c; was HVS 5b), High Neb, Stanage, 2 kb]16m. An amazing ascent for its day, it still has seasoned Extreme climbers floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block beneath the overhang. Bridge out right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily. © ROCKFAX
FA. Morley Wood 1926

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, The Peak: past and Present, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Hilary Bloor on the crux of the classic Kelly's Overhang (E1 5c; was HVS 5b), High Neb, Stanage © Penny Allchin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 522 logbooks, and on 93 wishlists.

on Shaun's gear
benkelsey - Lead G/U - 16/Oct/14 with rory wadsworth, James Oswald, Shaun Humphreys

pre placed gear
ruairidhwad - Lead β - 16/Oct/14 with Shaun Humphreys

shaunhumphreys - Lead G/U - 16/Oct/14 with rory

Nice transition from steep jug pulling to delicate balancy slab climbing.
Albachoss - Lead β - 11/Oct/14

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14

lena.drapella - 2nd β - 11/Oct/14 with Jake, Dougie

RKirke - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14 with Freshers

BenL - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14 with SUMC

Stroppy - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/14 with Tom Bushell

Stroppy - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/14

GU
Lenny - Lead - 05/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14

Ian MK - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/14 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Alex Newton

Alex Newton - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/14 with kyaizawa

end of the day, took a few baby falls
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/14 with Shaun Humphreys

all of us fell at the crux and ended up abbing for the gear.
andy.smythe - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/14

hard! hopefully get it next time
shaunhumphreys - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/14 with benkelsey

Technical crux.
Hoyes - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/14 with Rachel B

Batt - 2nd rpt - 24/Aug/14 with James Hoyes

mrteale - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with MrBlond

was hanging off the overhang for about half an hour try to work out how to do it
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/14 with Debbie

Hvs my arse. Harder than any of the E2s I tried this weekend. Can't remember the last time I failed on a HVS.....so its not hvs then:-)
wazzalad20 - Lead dnf - Aug/14

Good route. First route of day so felt quite stiff. Gets HVS 5b in BMC guide but maybe E1 5c as gets here on UKC?
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Ben Cole

greglad - Jul/14

MrBIond - Lead - 15/Jun/14

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/14 with Ola Stepien

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/14

Dimi got to crux and bailed after many attempts. Did not attempt.
BarnDawg - 31/May/14 with Dimitra Makridou

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Fiona, Jonny P

funsized - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14 with Danny Boy, Fi

Fell off on the crux, trying to go the low way then tried it again, planning to go high but ended up low again and was somehow just able to do it.
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 25/May/14 with Tom Ripley

mc fifi - 2nd O/S - 24/May/14 with Jonathan Pearson

Cool heel hook traverse to a bridging/ knee bar rest. After this the crux is fairly hard. Done with a upside down hand jamming rockover onto the hold on the side of the block. Super.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with Jon Stewart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

Fell trying to get established on the slab. I think I know what I did wrong, one to come back to.
MD - Lead dnf - 17/May/14 with Alison C

all ok, move onto lip is fine, crux for me was burly moves to reach holds on top of block, but all doable and good gear.
pebbles - 2nd - 17/May/14 with mick green

quickdrawmcraw - 2nd - 17/May/14

Hidden - Lead - 11/May/14

Found the heel-hook traverse under the lip OK but took quite a few goes to work out the bridge and rock over
petecallaghan - 2nd dog - 03/May/14 with Chris Brown

Maz J - Lead - 03/May/14

the power - Lead RP - 27/Apr/14 with deacon

Olli-C - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Chris Waddle

Wanted this for a while! hard move getting off the block!
fifth - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Gav

gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/14 with Scott

etrillaud - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

JHC - Lead - 19/Apr/14

dead hard. like a frozen rubiks cube.
dr_botnik - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/14 with Paul Hy, Phil Taylor

Balls!
Adam_42 - Lead dnf - 29/Mar/14 with Will Evans

Great route. First section is steep jug pulling to a nice kneebar rest; Spent a long time after this trying to fathom the crux. Took a fall on my first attempt at the crux. Lowered and pulled the ropes through and led ground up on my second attempt. A subtle dip of the right knee and sidepull seemed to make the difference. A route of two halves: steep jug pulling followed by a balancing rock over using slopers. Brilliant.
gavinpeach - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Andy, Hellen

Fell off crux twice.
chris smith - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14 with Malcolm watson

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/14

amccann - Lead O/S - 2014 with Ben Kelsey

Hidden - 2014

Tim Sparrow - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

rob.grafton - 2014

Took full advantage of the rest and tried loads of weird stuff to make the rock over. Finally managed it only to see my 2nd and 3rd completely mug me (and the route) off and bypass the crux! ***
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/13 with Alex, Kit Perry

Bloody hard HVS. Crux is getting over the roof.
Chris Perry - 2nd - 30/Nov/13 with Matt Rust

bwestwood - 16/Nov/13

Cool moves. Pretty hard and awkward!!
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/13 with Emily Ward

Hung around on the big flake for a while and the half descent rest sitting on the edge of the block with feet bridged before commiting
JamesTurnbull97 - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Dave Turnbull

Failed again! 2 goes, 20 years apart same result! Try again when I'm 60.
rurp - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/13

Jonny Nick - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/13

Brilliant!
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Vic Paterson

Well ard
the power - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/13 with rob

rested on ropes at crux after giving it a fair go, got it done after a proper fight, one that ill remember.
dr_botnik - Lead dog - 25/Sep/13 with ken, Phil Taylor

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/13

DaveMo - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Will Tarran

DaveMo - Lead RP - 21/Sep/13 with Will Tarran

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

DaveFidler - Lead dog - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/13

Could not work out what to do first go! Got it second try
sgl0jd - Lead β - 03/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - Sep/13

ranga - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Chris Knight

Got up to the triple stack, but too pumped to traverse round the stack and reach up for the flake. Slouched onto gear (rob's blue cam). I'll be back in a year for the lead.
knighty - Lead dnf - 25/Aug/13 with Rob Howard

Weighted the rope trying the crux rock over. Got it second time (albeit using the tall man moves) to the break above!
knighty - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/13 with Rob Howard

Hard work, but it's never E1.
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Ali

Mike W - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

Bomber gear up to the crux, run out above but its an easy slab finish. Crux is tricky, bit of a bunched up crank off the right hand (I used a jam).
emitto - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Clive Greenwood

Nice to get it clean this time (1 rest 5 year ago)
Shaw Brown - Lead - 30/Jun/13 with Judith Neaves

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Jun/13

Theeni - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Joseph

jrccrosby - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with Henry Crosby

tobydunford - 2nd β - 15/Jun/13 with Harry Martin

One fall but then I am 5 months pregnant so not a bad attempt.
Tala M - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/13 with Mike Brookes

ColinD - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Charlotte

caradoc - Lead - 25/May/13 with Becky

braders94 - 2nd RP - 19/May/13 with Rob Cooper

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/13

Rested at same place AGAIN.
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dog - 30/Apr/13 with Alan Mountford

hotfeet - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/13 with Matthew

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Dave Heaton

john lynch - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/13 with Joe Holden

fell on the crux! did the route after a good hand full of try's, but did it with a really long reach, being 6ft4. couldn't get the crux rock over... hard for the grade!!!
gazfellows - Lead - 06/Jan/13 with Billy

bclifton - Lead - 2013

1poundSOCKS - Lead dnf - 02/Nov/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/Oct/12

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/12 with Mike Tutt, Trevor Wilson

helenstuart - 2nd RP - 01/Sep/12 with Mike

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with rob dyer

Rob84 - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/12 with Stu Inchley

helenstuart - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/12

Numerous attempts and slumps on rope working out th sequence. Should get it next time.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/12 with Sarah friend of Amy, Amy Till

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Will Twiggers

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/12

jwpil - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Cliff

Spent a good half-hour chilling out in break!
David Kay - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Simon Coldrick

Did the move at the lip and foot slipped (blame it on the hole in the shoe) fell off. pulled ropes and did it clean same sequence etc.
Jake Young - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12 with Jem

tomthecoolperson - Lead rpt - 22/May/12 with Andrew

Incredible route
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 14/May/12 with Tom Dolden

I did it but think i went too far left
Tom Doldon - 2nd O/S - 14/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/12

Double Knee Bar - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with TomBond

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Glenn

Somerset swede basher - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with Laurence Davis

r@bag - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Dom Sellars

Tim Rodgers - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Mike Lea

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12

Matt Cooke - Lead dog - 05/May/12 with Tom Jagger

scottidog - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/12

MoWalker3 - 01/Apr/12 with Cormac

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/12

cool moves
tonanf - Lead O/S - Jan/12 with tim H.

jacktomlinson - 2nd O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2012 with Andrea Morgan, Tim Hill

admackie - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 2012

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 02/Nov/11 with Wee man

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 02/Nov/11 with Bern Hardman

Had to do a nails side pull thing to get up, felt a touch tricky for the grade.
Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 02/Nov/11 with Mark Williams

E1 feels about right
Brannock - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/11

Brilliant climb, regardless of the grade. Deserves every one of the stars.
Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Lucy Cook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11

mikeshewring - Lead dnf - 22/Oct/11

Tried on lead but got stuck at crux. Steve then led and showed me how it's done.
ian d f - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/11 with Steve Robinson

Took a while to get the move. Cracking route.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Kenny

Awesome, technical rather than strengthy at the lip
Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Sarah Rixham

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/11 with John Inkpen

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 07/Aug/11 with Andy Houseman

Jonesy_A - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with NJSharp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/11

CRiddiford - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/11 with Steve J

found a good kneebar which meant I spent over half an hour at the crux - and then fell off!! embarrassing, as my friends insisted on sticking around to "watch my technique".
Daniel Heath - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/11

Daniel Heath - Lead RP - 26/Jul/11

antdav - 2nd RP - 23/Jul/11 with Wayne

I spent15 mins at the crux trying evry kind of techniqe. After getting very pumped I then had to lower off. After a rest i got back up and nailed it. Very happy bunny.
waynem1985 - Lead RP - 23/Jul/11 with Antony Davies

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Nick Sparkes

Nick1812P - 2nd rpt - 14/Jul/11 with Jamie

Fran S8 - Lead - 10/Jul/11

maxkellock - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/11

maxkellock - TR β - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - Jul/11

Nick Rundall - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/11 with Jon Pemberton

Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Halla Parkin, Dafydd Llywelyn

Dafydd Llywelyn - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Halla Parkin, Will Hunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with loundsy

Superb! Have wanted to do this for a while, and was glad I was fresh when I got on it. Went pretty much straight up from the big hold in the middle. Loads of good gear, had a bit of rope drag from a sling near the start.
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Jim PCC

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Jeff Sheard

davewsargent - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/11 with peter sargent

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Niall

davewsargent - TR - 08/May/11

Chris M - Lead - 05/May/11 with Polly

Fell off at the stretchy traverse.... next time (fourth time's a charm)
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dog - 02/May/11 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 02/May/11 with Matt B

gordonday - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with clive

Go low!!!
barrowclough - Lead dog - 29/Apr/11 with Thomas Delaney

Fell off twice
Reds - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/11

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with paul Blurton, Dave Green, Nick Valente

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Apr/11

tprebs - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with John O'Hara

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Apr/11

ChrisBrooke - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11 with John Inkpen

ojp - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Dave, Robin

Watched a couple of lads before us so had the beta. Steady with one balancey move.
Dave Foster - Lead β - 09/Apr/11 with Si and Robin

Led on Dave's gear. Bloody Awesome. Good challenge getting established above the roof.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Dave Foster

Didn't get my hobbit feet high enough to allow me to reach the break past the overhang. Darn.
Alex Thompson - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Dreadlocks Chris

Really close! Hung around at the crux for a good 15mins before committing. Superb moves :)
willworkforfoodjnr - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Alex Thompson

chris_B - Lead - 09/Apr/11

mark20 - 2nd rpt - 06/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/11

Tim_C7 - Apr/11 with Kevin Kilroy

Mike bet me a pint I couldnt onsight this. I didnt onsight it because I'd watched people on it all morning, got a whole lot of beta, and had mid-climb tips. But I still claimed the ale!
manwithacam - Lead - 27/Mar/11 with Mike R

timrowland - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Dan P, jmjw

jmjw - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11 with Dan P, Tim R

Wow. Awesome going from strenuous roofs to delicate slabs, good contrast indeed.
jack89 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with teague

John Lewis - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with Tim

fun, fairly easy steep climbing leads to a good rest and bomber pro, followed by a delicate hard 5b move....hvs
tim newton - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with john lewis

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11

crispyboy - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with denzel

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Mar/11

howlingbaboon - 2nd dnf - 06/Mar/11 with Gav, Rob

skittles - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with will johnson

Hidden - Lead - 2011

David Smith - 2011

stevorobs3 - Lead dog - 2011 with Ian Faulkner

Alistair Corbett - 2nd - 14/Nov/10 with sam corbett

sam corbett - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with John Corbett

mostly on clare's gear. really cold.
Andy Moles - Lead β - 14/Nov/10 with Clare

I reckon mid grade E1 for the onsight. The clock is ticking and working out the move is very tricky. I think E1 hard 5b is fair. The move is so sweet though. Overhanging pump to delicate slab in about 1 second. Rockfax bad beta about attempting to go low.
Hardonicus - Lead dog - 13/Nov/10 with nick a

Liam Snodden - 24/Oct/10 with guy wilson

john lynch - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/10 with Lewis Andrew

Double hand jams worked for me when doing the crux move to gain the slab.
nickmattia - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with stephenhartley

stephenhartley - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with nickmattia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/10

SteveM - 2nd - 30/Sep/10 with Alex

HamishD - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with chris burn

Excellent! Hard moves!
Russ - 2nd - 17/Sep/10 with Dave Saxby

Lead cleanly until the move to bridge out right.
thecurlyone - Lead dnf - 04/Sep/10

thecurlyone - TR dog - 04/Sep/10

Roberto - Lead O/S - Sep/10

The hardest HVS I've ever climbed.
thomasmouse - Lead dog - 27/Aug/10

can't see what all the fuss is about really, it's a tricky move, but nothing ridiculous.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with James McHaffie

swoosh - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Jamie Armatage

ChrisBrooke - Lead dog - 15/Aug/10 with John Inkpen

philboy - 2nd - 11/Aug/10 with owen the cake

Cake - Lead RP - 11/Aug/10 with Phil B

Disappointed that I had a rest
Martin Haworth - Lead dog - 07/Aug/10 with Guido

joese7en - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

willson - Lead - 24/Jul/10 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Tough for 1 well-protected move
harold walmsley - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/10 with Colin Struthers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - Jul/10

one hard move to gain break after overhang, nice route
ben_250 - Lead β - 28/Jun/10 with Tom

tomthecoolperson - 2nd - 28/Jun/10 with Ben 250

'that' move was the craziest move I've ever pulled on any climb!
7om - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Jon Chittenden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Stephan tried to lead. Had to set up a top rope to get gear, so dicided to have ago. Went up instead of right at the crux and felt desperate
phildavies84 - TR dog - 27/Jun/10

Got pumped trying to get around the pedestal. Next time I'll crack this one!
Lumbering Oaf - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/10 with Rachel Spraggs

chris sm - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Cheesesarnie

Tim M - Lead dog - 26/Jun/10 with Chris Sims

Irn Bruce - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/10 with Ian Jenkins

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10

hard and scary. had to cut loose with feet and hand traverse
dan ely - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with terry

happy with the HVS 5b in current guide, a fight but not impossible, didn't see the tall persons variant at the crux (despite being 6'3")
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/10 with Jamie

AndyFrank - 2nd - 07/Jun/10 with Thomas Martin

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Nils

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/May/10

Direct version.
Tez29 - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with Mousey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/May/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/May/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/May/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/May/10

wi11 - 2nd dog - 02/May/10 with Chris Gee

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

zara bloomfield - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with adrian paisey

Hardcore Pat - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10

Took a bit of a swing on this one. Climbed back up and realized neither myself or my second wanted to climb so gave up!
ian d f - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/10 with Cameron

Somehow muffed the crux leaving me teetering on smears unable to move up. Worked out ok eventually. The steep bit is great fun.
jkarran - Lead - 17/Apr/10 with Duncan

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/10

This is the second time I've led this and enjoyed the crux again. Easy to miscue. Yoga has payed off as the move was in more comfortable reach this time.
LoopyLou - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Thea Williams, Helen Lear

Boy - 31/Jan/10 with Si Wilson, Adam , Nige Kershaw

Seymore Butt - 2010

TonyF - 2010

katyvose1 - 2010

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

cymjt - 2010

JPGR - Nov/09

Fannied around building up the nerve to 'go for it' at the crux. Holds are there where you need them. Horrid reach to attain slab - delicacy and strength required.
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Rach Batt

So nearly onsight but toe slipped at step across the void. Lowered off and did it again clean. NB, Some good wriggling action actually achieves a pretty good knee bar/toe hook rest at the block, then it's just a matter of getting across the void...! Really satisfying holding that move.
Batt - Lead - 18/Oct/09 with Matt Box

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Nearly made the rockover
mark20 - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09

JCB42 - Lead dog - 10/Oct/09

natalietanzer - Lead β - 09/Oct/09

Spent quite a while trying different ways to do the move. Lots of retreating to the rest. Eventually found a way that worked.
decs - Lead - 04/Oct/09 with Dan

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

Wobbled and dogged to the top of the block and fell off.
petegruf - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/09 with mark l

Nice- almost fluffed the crux move but wasnt too pumped, so Ii could hang around and work it out!
Twisty - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09 with Nigel Stock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/09

colkurtz - 2nd - 29/Aug/09 with Sarah, Robb

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Brown - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with James T

Billg - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Steve

Mike Soulby - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09

HVS????? Feels a lot harder!
Jonathan Hall - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/09 with Rob Middleton

Felt more like 5c to me on the on-sight, got it clean and although it didn't feel too desperate it was difficult to read the crux. It was harder than plenty of the E1's on Stanage eg Millsoms, Morrisons, Saliva, Namenlos.
smudge - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Den Onac

Continued lead after Tim backed off the crux. Rested on gear - the UKC grading makes me feel a little better!
Jim Slater - Lead dog - 06/Aug/09 with Tim Pearson

Very very tough for HVS 5b in the definitive guide. I went high to cross the gap. It may make it harder for myself.
Skinny Kin - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/09

wolverine - 25/Jun/09

Superb fun
riddle - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Tom Elliot

The easier way this time, can see why it could get HVS now...
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/09 with andy

schaff - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jun/09

mrtom - 2nd O/S - Jun/09 with Roger HSmith

2nd try after falling off the crux. Amazing climb, thuggish then very technical.
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 31/May/09 with Iain

Barely seconded, no falls but there may have been some tension in that rope! Bloody hard work in the heat.
catt - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Morgan Woods

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Apr/09

Got up to the slab and couldn't finish the final move - great up to there though.
odox - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/09 with Tom Pitchforth

Nails. Traversed out 6 or 7 times to the (low version traversing on slopers, what high version!?) crux then fell off, lowered, went again and got it first time.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Mike

IAmAStone - Lead dog - 26/Mar/09 with Charlie Jefferson

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/09 with Katy Vose

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/09

I loved it. The easy chimney - the big steep moves to the plinth - lots of gear - then I found the 5b method. A class route.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09 with PeakDJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Mar/09

BicepAndrews - Lead - 21/Feb/09 with Emma Taylor

Terrible rope work, a careless fall and lots of hanging around. Great fun though.
James_D - Lead dog - Feb/09 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2009

sonnenstern - Lead dog - 06/Dec/08 with Toby Vye

Sardien - 2nd dog - 06/Dec/08 with Sophie Berenice Wilmes

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/08 with Neil Pope

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Oct/08

davidgent - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Kunal

Pete Graham - Lead - Oct/08 with Rick Graham

sparkass - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Mike Shorter and Pete Dolman

figfour - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

sopaz - TR - 19/Sep/08

Don't believe Rockfax when it says go low, I did and fell off! Ok when you go high.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 14/Sep/08 with Max

lukehunt - 2nd - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Tricky crux move felt hard, v satisfying though.
tommytuffa - Lead - 13/Sep/08 with Will

Lev - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 24/Aug/08

First clean ascent on third attempt.
Stig - Lead β - 22/Jul/08 with Charlie and Simon

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

a tough outing and I think the upgrading is correct. harder than it looks.
roberto18 - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Rob led this when it was HVS 5b,he said it was the hardest HVS he`d done to date!.I didn`t have a problem until the step right to get established on the face,made it ok...just! Top lead Rob.
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Robert Bridges

spanked !
lithos - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/08 with john byrne

craig d - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Simon Kincaid

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/08

Drizzling, gripped
NickHobbs - Lead O/S - 22/May/08 with Murray

AndyL - 2nd - 19/May/08 with Calum cuthill

Couldn't do the crux move
dave657 - Lead dnf - 10/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/08

Steerpike - Lead dog - 15/Apr/08 with Tommo

good fun, scary
Henry L Buckle - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/08 with tom

amazing route. a real thriller. cig
andy gravestock - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/08 with alex mason ,

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08

Having been up there before and not managed it was suprised at how easy it was, although fairly unobvious. p.s. andy gravestock did not onsight he got lowered off and had a demo of the moves
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/08 with andy gravestock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/07

Another James - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with Pieter

need to move quicker must try harder
scullymammoth - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/07 with Dave Lumb

tomparrott - Lead - 21/Oct/07 with DJ

deejmonkey - 2nd - 21/Oct/07 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/07

Got to crux and fooled about for ages, then fell off after my desperate final efforts dint work. Had full body pump and curled up in the foetal position for 5 min at the bottom, mark tried the lead but couldn't get it either. Abbed for gear and what 2 ascents will nail it now i know.
andymoin - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/07 with Mark Jarvie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

tradguy - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with John Mitchener

Good fun monkey moves through the overhang but hard move to stand up onto that right hand slab.
SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Pythonist

Pythonist - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/07 with Hazel

kp64zl - TR - Aug/07 with Philip S

Finally an evening where free time and dry weather coincide... great route, even got a no-hands rest. Pretty scary lead I woudl imagine..
kitkat78 - 2nd - 27/Jul/07 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/07

took way longer on this than i should have - tricky on 1st acquaintance but fine. good climb
ksjs - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with goosebump

Bugger!
Piers Harley - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/07 with Chris Grimble

second attempt, hard but fantastic climb !!
Maciek - Lead RP - Jul/07 with Piotr B.

Mick B - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/07 with Rick Asher

Pythonist - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/07

Back for another attempt. Eventually did it the brutal way. Figured out the 'right' way now, back for the lead soon.
Stig - Lead dog - 20/May/07 with Maciek

Monkey out merrily, stand up, think it's over, repeatedly fall off of thin step across. Dammit!
cmsg - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/07 with Luke Gannarelli

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/07 with Creeky

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/07

fell off the traverse first time. got it right the second time
Caralynh - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/07 with Nick Smith

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/07

bigphil - 2nd β - 15/Apr/07 with Toby

IanJackson - Lead - 06/Apr/07 with Big Ian

deejmonkey - TR - 04/Apr/07

Fell quite a long way off this....
Bristoldave - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/07 with Jon Hauser

shark - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Keith Sharples

Duncan I - 2007

sdht - 2007

Failed onthis over a year. Nice to go back and do it ok. Think its worth 5c though, the move is very unusal and hard to read - UK grades are for an onsight! And also E1.
Si dH - Lead rpt - 02/Dec/06 with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert

Did Straight up move HVS 5a? Not right hand trav etc, too reachy!
Ian Broome - Lead - 21/Oct/06 with Andy Reeve

tumbling wizard - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/06

Cameron13 - 2nd dnf - 10/Oct/06 with alex@home

Nicos - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/06 with ray

messed up the crux first go. got it second attempt after i found the hands off rest which gave me time to think about it
Alex@home - Lead RP - Oct/06 with gavin

Think HVS 5b is about right, no harder than Flying Buttress Direct
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/06

Hidden - TR - 10/Sep/06

Big fall, one cam ripped!!
Swirly - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/06 with katherine

Castleclimber - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Fred Lyon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/06

Ninjaladdy - Lead RP - Aug/06 with Eddie J.

colin milton - 2nd - 14/Jul/06 with fenclimb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/06

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Olivia Horner

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/06 with helen gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/06

cem - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Graham Dolman

dan gibson - 2006

Neil Adams - 2006

First E1. Utterly gripped. Pulling onto the slab I popped my shoulder out but carried on anyway.
jonnybull - Lead β - 2006

Interesting finish, after travesing into the "bad" rest (it isn't, but requires flexibility). Not sure whether to traverse out right from this, or up and then step right. I did the top finish, and it seems E1 5c ish.
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/05 with Darcy Mitchell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Nov/05

Xav - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/05

Hidden - Solo O/S - Oct/05

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Tony Seale

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Ryan Brooks

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/05

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 21/May/05 with Anna

Anna Horrox - 2nd - 21/May/05 with Clive Greenwood

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/05 with Torran Elson

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Stone Muppet - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2005

Chris M - 2005

loonyclimber - Lead O/S - Aug/04

I took the piss out of it and it`s reputation with over supplety, over confidence and over brutish behaviour. Maybe HVS after all then
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - Apr/04

Dave Bond - Lead - 18/Oct/03 with Rich Hatton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/03

Shad - 2nd - Apr/03

Skell - Lead dog - 01/Jan/03 with Dave

Hidden - Lead - Sep/02

Hidden - 2nd dog - Sep/02

HVS at the time, and way harder than any of the (few) E2's I'd done. Safe, but, That move!...
Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/02 with sam kendrick

reg_measures - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/02

I started this but could not finish, then followed Martin up it.
CrashMat Rob - 2nd - 11/May/02 with Steve, Sahra, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky

Hidden - Lead - May/02

chris sm - 2nd dnf - 04/Mar/02

Hidden - 2nd - 2002

Budge - TR dog - 19/Jul/01 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Jul/01

Obi-Wan is lost... - Lead - Jun/01

Darragh - 2nd dog - May/01 with Imogen & Bas

Brian Rodgers - Lead - 2001

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

Hidden - Lead - 11/Mar/00

tlr - Lead - 2000

jonka - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Paul Clarke - Lead - 2000 with Various

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/May/99

sadams - Lead - May/99

Ropeboy - Lead - 04/Aug/98

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/98

leathers - Lead O/S - Jul/98 with Simon Vallance

martroberts - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/98

lovely route, excellent moves at crux
nickdonohue - Lead - 31/May/98 with Caley Latham

Got to the big block, but got pumped.
Phil West - Lead dnf - 09/May/98 with David Atherton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/98

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/98

Billg - Lead O/S - 1998 with Paul Guttridge

Chad123 - 1998

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/97 with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/97

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/97

nige pacer - 2nd - 13/Oct/96

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - May/96

ChrisJD - Lead - 07/Aug/95 with rc

robtrooper - Aug/95

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

2nd HVS as was!!
Graham Booth - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/93

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Nov/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/90 with Jim Waddington

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/89

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/87

mark-abz - TR - 27/May/87 with Sheena

Neil R - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/86 with Richard W

Tom V - 2nd - 19/Apr/86 with Howie Darwin

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 12/Oct/85

Mike Owen - 11/Oct/85 with Graham Lipp

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/85

GordonHart - 2nd O/S - 1985 with Phil

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/84

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/82

steve L - Lead O/S - 29/May/82 with Alun Richardson

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Dave Musgrove - 29/Jul/81 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/80

Hidden - Jun/80

andy gittins - 1980

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 17/Jun/79 with Mark Brewster

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/79

rogerskews - 1975 with CMC Members

mikej - 2nd - 10/Jan/71 with John Bickerdyke

Fell off crux. Landed about 6ft above the deck.
Gordon Stainforth - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/70 with Tim James

mikej - Lead - 29/Jun/69 with Geoff Williams

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Voting
Total votes cast 509
hard E20 of 178
E20 of 178
easy E20 of 178
hard E114 of 178
E167 of 178
easy E118 of 178
hard HVS77 of 178
HVS2 of 178
easy HVS0 of 178
hard 6a0 of 177
6a0 of 177
easy 6a0 of 177
hard 5c4 of 177
5c55 of 177
easy 5c35 of 177
hard 5b81 of 177
5b2 of 177
easy 5b0 of 177
3 Stars137 of 154
2 Stars15 of 154
1 Star2 of 154
0 Stars0 of 154
Bag of .....0 of 154
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean G/U
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dogged
dnf