Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold. Then flick into the crucial mantelshelf, though the tall will probably just topple over backwards. © Rockfax
FA. Al Parker 1978.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peaks hard stuff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| teddy | 27 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mantleshelf would prob b easier but I did it via a rockover onto the lower part of the hold with right foot and lock up to slopers with the RH and then match...tenous! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Mantleshelf would prob b easier but I did it via a rockover onto the lower part of the hold with right foot and lock up to slopers with the RH and then match...tenous! |
||||
| Garan | 7 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Commit to the mantle 100 percent and it's a piece of duff! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Commit to the mantle 100 percent and it's a piece of duff! |
||||
| John Gillott | 3 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: You spoilsport Nige M. You're right of course (and I know someone 5'6" who's done it the way you suggest), but people come to no harm following the guidebook method! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: You spoilsport Nige M. You're right of course (and I know someone 5'6" who's done it the way you suggest), but people come to no harm following the guidebook method! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Dark Side of the Moon
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Kinder Downfall)