Rockfax Description
Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold. Then flick into the crucial mantelshelf, though the tall will probably just topple over backwards. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1978

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

theotherpetehill 09/Aug Lead dnf

Fail. Adam committed much better to it and took a whipper into the groove. He went up the easy way left and belayed and I scraped up it on top-rope with a bit of resting and messing about...

with Adam Brown
adam 24 09/Aug Lead dnf

Mantel is utterly nails

DanOsb 25/May Lead dnf


with Ed
mrteale 21/May Lead dnf
tim newton 04/May Lead rpt

Tried it a couple of years ago with some falls before giving up. First go today

Rachel Slater 04/May 2nd β
phildawson 04/May Lead dnf

Pretty steady to the jug but by the time i'd hung around figuring out the foot beta to get the the lip i was to tired to actually manage the move. Close though, it'll go next time!

with Stefanie Pöhlmann
Canyak ??/2015 -
Matt Cooke 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
dom94 09/Nov/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Matt Groom
Hannes B 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Krissy, Sasha
Matt Groom 09/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf
benkelsey 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf

sacked off after the mantle. couldn't let the go of the jug to reach the ledge.

dswansonlow 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good move and not too bad for shorties

BenL 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with SUMC
ASchwirtz 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf
lukehodson 26/May/13 Lead dnf
oldcheese 04/May/13 Lead β
oldcheese 04/May/13 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?/Oct/12 Lead

went for the dead point to slopers and hold on tight method rather than pissing around with a grizzly mantle

with claire jane carter
freemanTom 22/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Kyle did not finish either. Reachy but fun looking.

with Kyle Rance, Ben
Hidden 04/Sep/12 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 04/Sep/12 TR
with loundsy
Simon_Letman 05/May/12 Lead RP

Ground up. Took some big falls

with olly
Apharri ?/Feb/12 Lead β
fp219 ?/Jan/12 2nd
Tom Redmond 29/Oct/11 TR RP
Hidden 29/Oct/11 TR
Joey C 23/Oct/11 TR dog

Mega pull up on slopers! some nice moves :)

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 14/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Keeley Scholes
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 10/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Exodus 30/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Hand came so close, but I don't think I ever fully comitted.Reversed several times. Next time

with Steve A
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Dad
mark20 06/Apr/11 Lead RP

Took a couple of falls trying to slap up. Got it first go with the mantle.

Ben1983 03/Apr/11 Lead dnf
John Lewis 20/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Tim
tim newton 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

took a couple of falls from the crux before giving up. plenty of pro below

SteveM 30/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Alex
HamishD 26/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with chris burn
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead dnf
JamieSparkes 04/Sep/10 Lead dnf

only one hard move, no2 and 00 cams protect crux perfectly, not that I managed it!

with Nick
FlorianCastagne 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead G/U
chris sm 26/Jun/10 2nd
Tim M 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf
rubben 30/May/10 Lead dnf

Led to roof, placed two larger cams, which were superficila really as would not have held. Then placed two aliens, which seemed pretty good...went over roof and got the good hold, but didn't feel confident enough in my gear this early in my trad climbing history (7th lead ever)...so, reversed, and went up easy hvs to left...one to go back for and just do!

Hidden 30/May/10 2nd dnf
Tez29 16/May/10 Lead β

Retro flash, stiff pull.

with Mousey
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead β
mark20 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Still can't do the crux, fell like a sack of spuds and cut myself up a bit

Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 2nd
JPGR ?/Nov/09 -
mark20 17/Oct/09 2nd dnf

Finished out right

Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR O/S
natalietanzer 09/Oct/09 2nd
Andrew Barker 07/Sep/09 Lead

Fell off the mantel a couple of years ago, got it first try today. It's a very cool move.

with John Barker
Diggler 05/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Almost had it fingers millimeters from safety then slipped from the mantle. Result bruised knee and swollen foot from collision with ledge. Next time!!!!

RCrockford 05/Sep/09 2nd
with Mark D
LoopyLou 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Tough groove getting to the ledge, gear ok on the ledge but not guaranteed to protect a ground fall if get beyond the mantle move and fall at/just below the next break/gear. Pumpy hanging around on ledge working out how best to get onto the mantle hold. Once there, foot options not as obvious / nice as you'd like. Deviously difficult and powerful move needed to get into the mantle move itself and upward. Tried (90% effort, 10% held back due to fear of fall)! Managed to retreat back to ledge without falling onto gear and finished up the Severe.

with Thea Williams
Billg 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead dnf
chris sm 14/Jun/09 2nd RP

Took a couple of goes!

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead

failed on many years ago (2000?)

with Tom Randall
Strong Steve 28/Jun/08 Lead G/U
craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Nicos 18/May/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/May/08 TR dnf
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Ferguson
sasmojo 26/Apr/08 Lead dnf

Failed after 3 falls, need to get back on this. Awesome route.

with Kev Billings
shark 22/Jul/07 Lead

Got it first time. Failed on previously.

with Mark Hundleby
dan gibson 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
UndercoverElephant ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Now that's a move and a half - so tentative you could go either way, luckily I chose up and was rewarded with a handful of dirty sloper. Makes those bouldering sessions worthwhile.

with unseconded
shark 04/Feb/07 Lead dnf
LakesWinter 03/Feb/07 2nd dnf

The crux is hard! Too hard for me right now!

with Mr harvey and Chris
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Daniel Wrightson 01/Jul/06 Lead dnf
with Olivia Horner
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 19/Oct/03 Lead
with Rich Hatton
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Very pleased to lead this clean especially as it has a reputation for being hard for the tall and Colin said he'd seen 4-5 people try it but none succeed, found it fine at the grade.

with Trevor Stevens, Colin Brearley
lx ?/Oct/01 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
sadams ?/May/99 Lead
Rich Kirby 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Suzy
goi.ashmore 01/Nov/97 Lead β
with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead rpt
Roget 29/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 21/Jul/92 Lead β
mark-abz 21/May/90 TR
with Phil R
GordonHart ??/1985 TR O/S
with Kevin
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, climberchristy, Graham Booth, mfisher, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, Dean177, mhawk, prinny, Owen W-G, Jonathan Hall, derekb, Cornish Cream, Kyle Rance, Hidden, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set