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King Kong** E3 6a

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[King Can't, 1 kb]12m. Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold then flick into the crucial mantelshelf - though the tall will probably just topple over backwards. © ROCKFAX
FA. Al Parker 1978

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: King Can't © mark20
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 86 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Claire Duffield

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/14

Marcin78 - TR - 09/Mar/14 with Paul Ingate

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13

lukehodson - Lead dnf - 26/May/13 with Charlotte

oldcheese - Lead β - 04/May/13

oldcheese - Lead β - 04/May/13

went for the dead point to slopers and hold on tight method rather than pissing around with a grizzly mantle
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Oct/12 with claire jane carter

Kyle did not finish either. Reachy but fun looking.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd dnf - 22/Sep/12 with Kyle Rance, Ben

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/12

belay bunny turned bad - TR - 04/Sep/12 with loundsy

Ground up. Took some big falls
Simon_Letman - Lead RP - 05/May/12 with olly

Apharri - Lead β - Feb/12 with John Lynch

fp219 - 2nd - Jan/12

Tom Redmond - TR RP - 29/Oct/11 with Josh Willet

Hidden - TR - 29/Oct/11

Mega pull up on slopers! some nice moves :)
Joey C - TR dog - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

ChrisBrooke - Lead dnf - 14/Aug/11 with Keeley Scholes

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with John Nightingale

Fran S8 - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/11

Hand came so close, but I don't think I ever fully comitted.Reversed several times. Next time
Exodus - Lead dnf - 30/Apr/11 with Steve A

blimey!
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Dad

Took a couple of falls trying to slap up. Got it first go with the mantle.
mark20 - Lead RP - 06/Apr/11

Ben1983 - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11

John Lewis - 2nd dog - 20/Mar/11 with Tim

took a couple of falls from the crux before giving up. plenty of pro below
tim newton - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11 with lee leatherbarrow

SteveM - 2nd dog - 30/Sep/10 with Alex

HamishD - Lead dnf - 26/Sep/10 with chris burn

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/10

only one hard move, no2 and 00 cams protect crux perfectly, not that I managed it!
JamieSparkes - Lead dnf - 04/Sep/10 with Nick

FlorianCastagne - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10

fell off the mantel twice then got it.
LukeP LCC - TR dog - 22/Aug/10 with paul sexton

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/10

chris sm - 2nd - 26/Jun/10 with Cheesesarnie

Tim M - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/10 with Chris Sims

Led to roof, placed two larger cams, which were superficila really as would not have held. Then placed two aliens, which seemed pretty good...went over roof and got the good hold, but didn't feel confident enough in my gear this early in my trad climbing history (7th lead ever)...so, reversed, and went up easy hvs to left...one to go back for and just do!
rubben - Lead dnf - 30/May/10 with roland o'leary

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 30/May/10

Retro flash, stiff pull.
Tez29 - Lead β - 16/May/10 with Mousey

Hidden - Lead β - 09/May/10

Still can't do the crux, fell like a sack of spuds and cut myself up a bit
mark20 - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/10

Ben Vieyra - 2nd - 2010

JPGR - Nov/09

Finished out right
mark20 - 2nd dnf - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/09

Hidden - TR O/S - 10/Oct/09

natalietanzer - 2nd - 09/Oct/09

Fell off the mantel a couple of years ago, got it first try today. It's a very cool move.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 07/Sep/09 with John Barker

Almost had it fingers millimeters from safety then slipped from the mantle. Result bruised knee and swollen foot from collision with ledge. Next time!!!!
Diggler - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/09 with RCrockford

Tough groove getting to the ledge, gear ok on the ledge but not guaranteed to protect a ground fall if get beyond the mantle move and fall at/just below the next break/gear. Pumpy hanging around on ledge working out how best to get onto the mantle hold. Once there, foot options not as obvious / nice as you'd like. Deviously difficult and powerful move needed to get into the mantle move itself and upward. Tried (90% effort, 10% held back due to fear of fall)! Managed to retreat back to ledge without falling onto gear and finished up the Severe.
LoopyLou - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/09 with Thea Williams

Billg - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Megan Beaumont

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/09

Took a couple of goes!
chris sm - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/09

failed on many years ago (2000?)
Toby Dunn - Lead - Aug/08 with Tom Randall

craig d - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Simon Kincaid

Nicos - Lead dnf - 18/May/08 with rich howels

Hidden - TR dnf - 12/May/08

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Dave Ferguson

Failed after 3 falls, need to get back on this. Awesome route.
sasmojo - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/08 with Kev Billings

Got it first time. Failed on previously.
shark - Lead - 22/Jul/07 with Mark Hundleby

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/07

Now that's a move and a half - so tentative you could go either way, luckily I chose up and was rewarded with a handful of dirty sloper. Makes those bouldering sessions worthwhile.
UndercoverElephant - Lead O/S - May/07 with unseconded

shark - Lead dnf - 04/Feb/07 with Keith Sharples

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 03/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Daniel Wrightson - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/06 with Olivia Horner

Bern - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05

Dave Bond - Lead - 19/Oct/03 with Rich Hatton

lx - Lead - Oct/01

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/01

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Lead RP - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

sadams - Lead - May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/98

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 01/Nov/97 with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead rpt - Mar/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Jul/92

mark-abz - TR - 21/May/90 with Phil R

GordonHart - TR O/S - 1985 with Kevin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Graham Booth, mfisher, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, Hidden, Dean177, mhawk, prinny, Owen W-G, Jonathan Hall, derekb, Cornish Cream, Kyle Rance, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 74
hard E40 of 26
E40 of 26
easy E41 of 26
hard E30 of 26
E323 of 26
easy E32 of 26
hard E20 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E20 of 26
hard 6b0 of 26
6b0 of 26
easy 6b2 of 26
hard 6a16 of 26
6a6 of 26
easy 6a0 of 26
hard 5c2 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
3 Stars2 of 22
2 Stars18 of 22
1 Star2 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent

Lead58 of 86 (67.4%)
Followed15 of 86 (17.4%)
Toproped10 of 86 (11.6%)
Unknown3 of 86 (3.5%)

'Climbed'26 of 86 (30.2%)
clean O/S16 of 86 (18.6%)
clean β7 of 86 (8.1%)
clean rpt1 of 86 (1.2%)
clean RP5 of 86 (5.8%)
dogged5 of 86 (5.8%)
dnf26 of 86 (30.2%)