Old Friends*** E4 6a
[ Old Friends back in 94, 3 kb]18m.

Rockfax Description
A classic Stanage E4 giving a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest. Swing left and pull up with difficulty (a small cam in the base of the flake is hard to place) then make the crucial layback/stretch to reach the deep horizontal break. Move right and use a good pocket to gain the easier final wall. © ROCKFAX

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Good E4s, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best.

Photo: Old Friends back in 94 © andybirtwistle
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 119 logbooks, and on 39 wishlists.

Took a tumble from the start - bruised heel and bum. Should have called it a day there but persisted. Got higher next time, fiddled in the unconvincing wires, placed the reachy cam, rocked up, but ran out of juice for the big move to the break. I'll be back.
Nick Russell - Lead dnf - 03/Oct/15

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Aug/15

Neal Jobling - TR dog - 02/Aug/15 with Thomas, Tracy

Antonio Ferra - 2nd dog - Jul/15 with gavin

Fell at 1/3 height cam and again going for the horizontal break. Work up to leading.
RosePearson - 2nd dog - 23/May/15 with Harry Fogg

An amazing route, an absolute stonker at E4. So glad I ditched the ego for headpoint. Never above 5c but the gear is dubious and tricky to place.
sparkass - Lead RP - 16/May/15 with Rob Lovatt

Should auld acquaintances be forgot and never brought to mind? Don't think so, will have to get back on this once I've got more skills, slopeyholdability and bigger balls! Hard from the word go. Good red BD micro cam in the first placement, grey BD micro cam above which seemed to hold, followed by a crucial golden DMM offset which seemed good and held when I slipped off downclimbing but lifted out very easily on abseil... It was pretty shallow so didn't really want to test it and anyway the moves to the good flake hold looked nails. Hung around on the slopey handholds for ages shuffling back and forth but couldn't really figure it out at 5c and didn't want to commit so bailed. Went up the Dalesman instead, which was pretty good but a bit pumpy after all of the above. Rach seconded the Dalesman so abbed for the gear in Old Friends.
Misha - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/15 with Rach

Tough cookie but absolutely cracking route! Didn't use RPs, just a WC Zero 5 in the start of the flake and size 1 cam next to the big reach.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead RP - 18/Apr/15 with Ola Stępień

Canyak - 2015

phil64 - 2015

Matt Cooke - Lead G/U - 30/Nov/14 with Rosh

Dan Geh - TR RP - 11/Oct/14 with Freshers

dswansonlow - 2nd rpt - 11/Oct/14

Lovely, pumpy climbing.
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14 with Dougie

Layback fine. Move to get the layback was desperate. Fell a few times here. Need stronger fingers on the small holds moving left
rurp - TR RP - 02/Sep/14

Backed off pretty early, I'll be returning with a mat :o)
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/14

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

barni - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/13 with Ami

bwestwood - 2nd - 16/Nov/13

pie_eater_pete - Lead β - 16/Nov/13 with bwestwood

wanted to do for a while. not dissapointed!
w.pettet-smith - 30/Oct/13 with ben

Great lunge off the flake, didnt bother with the rp's.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with James Turnbull

Matt Harle - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/12

Honking! Only top roped but no intention of leading it, 6a climbing and had to yank on the rope a couple of times!
Zoomer - TR dog - 08/Oct/12 with A Student

Top roped would never lead this, but good for the forearms. OOOCCHH!!cheers Zoomer!!
scott mayled - TR dog - 08/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - TR β - 26/May/12

2nd go on TR. Beautiful.
jamiev - TR RP - 21/Apr/12 with Tom Lewis

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 2012 with Andrea Morgan

phil64 - 2nd rpt - 23/Oct/11 with nick gillett

Fell off at the flake, the cam ripped and hit the ground on rope stretch. Thought it was totally nails then realised I'd missed a hold when I went to strip the gear, gutted to have missed OS. Great route all the same!
J.Wells - Lead RP - 22/Oct/11 with Jasmine Taplin

Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 19/Aug/11

Adam Booth - TR RP - 19/Aug/11

ChrisBrooke - TR - 18/Jun/11 with Duncan Bell

.. after having a banana whilst hanging on the flake still not gave enough juice and bigger balls
Hannes B - 2nd - 24/May/11 with Mike, Tom

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Ben C - 2011

not without whipping off first onto a purple metolius... glad to tick it on the redpoint.
highlux - Lead RP - 12/Dec/10

dswansonlow - TR dog - 09/Oct/10 with sarp

searla - TR dog - 09/Oct/10

Don't think, just climb
FlorianCastagne - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10

BOLD! The cam in the flake didn't inspire much confidence, especially since that was the only sketchy piece protecting me from a groundfall...
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Ewan

HamishD - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Alex

westaway - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with nathan lee

TonyF - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

On robs gear
stevebarratt - Lead β - 2010 with Rob Bryniarski

JonBrown - TR dog - 17/Oct/09 with Dougie

dswansonlow - TR dog - 17/Oct/09 with sarp

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Mar/09

koopa - TR - 2009

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Attempted two days ago, got to the break, so pumped I couldn't get past the pocket. Went like a dream today,
Luke Brooks - Lead β - 30/Nov/08 with Neil Pope

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/Nov/08

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Tom Randall

jamesturnbull - Lead - May/08 with nick m

Skell - Lead RP - 23/Feb/08 with Andy

OffshoreAndy - 2nd - 23/Feb/08 with Skell

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

'this ain't gonna be no formality....' sure enough, it wasn't. If the cam in the flake holds then hard E4 6a. If not it's more like E5. Had little faith in the gear despite taking a while trying to get it right so felt like a solo. Brilliant line and moves either way.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/07 with Toby, Barrows, Mason

Hidden - Lead β - 31/Oct/07

v.jester - 2nd - 08/Aug/07 with Mysak

dan gibson - Lead RP - 15/Jun/06 with helen gibson

redjerry - TR O/S - Apr/06

Boy - 2006

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/05 with Alex Cannon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05

Brown - Lead RP - 29/Oct/05 with Paul

Climb Rox - TR - 09/Sep/05 with nick

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Very hot day, greasy as sin. First time I'd let out a power scream on a route. been doing it ever since!
Gus - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/03

Mark Riley - Lead β - Apr/03 with Stuart Greenall

Didn't feel like leading it at the time. Either before the toprope or after!
martroberts - TR RP - 14/Apr/02

Hidden - TR - 03/Apr/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/02 with Joe le Sage

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 15/Aug/00 with Matt Hirst

Hidden - 2000

1 yo yo on a very cold day. Got good runners.
Ian Jones - Lead RP - 2000 with John Kirk

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

GeoffG - 2nd - 09/May/99

Not sure of the year
D Tempest - Lead O/S - 1999 with Rick

Best and hardest route I've ever done on grit.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/May/98 with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean

sadams - 2nd - 26/Oct/97 with Hugh Cottom

ChrisJD - 2nd - 12/Oct/97 with MarkS

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/97 with jon

Chris the Tall - TR dog - Aug/97 with Bill G

Hidden - TR - 20/Jun/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Led then soloed.
andybirtwistle - Solo - 14/May/94

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Jul/92

mark-abz - TR - 21/May/90 with Phil R

Billg - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/89 with Alan Doig

Hidden - Jun/89

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/88

Think with John Myers or Phill Dickens
shark - Lead O/S - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 21/Oct/86 with Sandra Graham

Mike Owen - 11/Oct/85 with Graham Lipp

sadams - Lead rpt - 04/May/85 with John Dunne

Hammy - TR - 30/Aug/84

Dave Musgrove - Lead β - 27/Jun/84 with Paul Dawson

steve L - Lead O/S - 29/May/82 with Alun Richardson

Hidden - Lead - 1982

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

Reached the layback flake but couldn't stretch to the next break or reverse the traverse - had to jump off onto the tiny stopper protection (which held). Second time made a proper job of it, making one move up the flake before reaching. One of the best routes on gritstone for my money.
petemeads - Lead - Jul/78 with Steve Taylor

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH, harry_lewis, dom94, theomoore, Gudge, Oddjob, WhipperSnapper, sgl0jd, Nick Sillem, howifeel, martroberts, simeclimb68, quiffhanger, pie_eater_pete, James Oakes, derekb, Mr Sparkle, richiebongo, Andrew Barker, bigdave6ft5

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Style of ascent
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