Rockfax Description
A classic Stanage E4 giving a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest. Swing left and pull up with difficulty (a small cam in the base of the flake is hard to place) then make the crucial layback/stretch to reach the deep horizontal break. Move right and use a good pocket to gain the easier final wall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Good E4s, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Nick Russell 03/Oct Lead dnf

Took a tumble from the start - bruised heel and bum. Should have called it a day there but persisted. Got higher next time, fiddled in the unconvincing wires, placed the reachy cam, rocked up, but ran out of juice for the big move to the break. I'll be back.

Hidden 08/Aug TR dog
Neal Jobling 02/Aug TR dog
with Thomas, Tracy
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul 2nd dog
with gavin
RosePearson 23/May 2nd dog

Fell at 1/3 height cam and again going for the horizontal break. Work up to leading.

with Harry Fogg
sparkass 16/May Lead RP

An amazing route, an absolute stonker at E4. So glad I ditched the ego for headpoint. Never above 5c but the gear is dubious and tricky to place.

with Rob Lovatt
Misha 26/Apr Lead dnf

Should auld acquaintances be forgot and never brought to mind? Don't think so, will have to get back on this once I've got more skills, slopeyholdability and bigger balls! Hard from the word go. Good red BD micro cam in the first placement, grey BD micro cam above which seemed to hold, followed by a crucial golden DMM offset which seemed good and held when I slipped off downclimbing but lifted out very easily on abseil... It was pretty shallow so didn't really want to test it and anyway the moves to the good flake hold looked nails. Hung around on the slopey handholds for ages shuffling back and forth but couldn't really figure it out at 5c and didn't want to commit so bailed. Went up the Dalesman instead, which was pretty good but a bit pumpy after all of the above. Rach seconded the Dalesman so abbed for the gear in Old Friends.

with Rach
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 18/Apr Lead RP

Tough cookie but absolutely cracking route! Didn't use RPs, just a WC Zero 5 in the start of the flake and size 1 cam next to the big reach.

Canyak ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Matt Cooke 30/Nov/14 Lead G/U
with Rosh
Dan Geh 11/Oct/14 TR RP
with Freshers
dswansonlow 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Lovely, pumpy climbing.

with Dougie
rurp 02/Sep/14 TR RP

Layback fine. Move to get the layback was desperate. Fell a few times here. Need stronger fingers on the small holds moving left

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Backed off pretty early, I'll be returning with a mat :o)

mike mo ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
barni 19/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Ami
bwestwood 16/Nov/13 2nd
pie_eater_pete 16/Nov/13 Lead β
with bwestwood
w.pettet-smith 30/Oct/13 -

wanted to do for a while. not dissapointed!

with ben
nathanlee 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great lunge off the flake, didnt bother with the rp's.

Matt Harle 10/Nov/12 Lead dnf
Zoomer 08/Oct/12 TR dog

Honking! Only top roped but no intention of leading it, 6a climbing and had to yank on the rope a couple of times!

with A Student
scott mayled 08/Oct/12 TR dog

Top roped would never lead this, but good for the forearms. OOOCCHH!!cheers Zoomer!!

Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 26/May/12 TR β
jamiev 21/Apr/12 TR RP

2nd go on TR. Beautiful.

with Tom Lewis
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Andrea Morgan
phil64 23/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with nick gillett
J.Wells 22/Oct/11 Lead RP

Fell off at the flake, the cam ripped and hit the ground on rope stretch. Thought it was totally nails then realised I'd missed a hold when I went to strip the gear, gutted to have missed OS. Great route all the same!

Adam Booth 19/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Adam Booth 19/Aug/11 TR RP
ChrisBrooke 18/Jun/11 TR
with Duncan Bell
Hannes B 24/May/11 2nd

.. after having a banana whilst hanging on the flake still not gave enough juice and bigger balls

with Mike, Tom
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
highlux 12/Dec/10 Lead RP

not without whipping off first onto a purple metolius... glad to tick it on the redpoint.

dswansonlow 09/Oct/10 TR dog
with sarp
searla 09/Oct/10 TR dog
FlorianCastagne 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Don't think, just climb

Rowansb 28/May/10 Lead O/S

BOLD! The cam in the flake didn't inspire much confidence, especially since that was the only sketchy piece protecting me from a groundfall...

with Ewan
HamishD 13/May/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
westaway 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dominic lee 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
TonyF ??/2010 -
Ewano ??/2010 TR
stevebarratt ??/2010 Lead β

On robs gear

with Rob Bryniarski
JonBrown 17/Oct/09 TR dog
with Dougie
dswansonlow 17/Oct/09 TR dog
with sarp
Hidden 07/Mar/09 Lead dnf
koopa ??/2009 TR
Ed Booth ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 30/Nov/08 Lead β

Attempted two days ago, got to the break, so pumped I couldn't get past the pocket. Went like a dream today,

Hidden 09/Nov/08 TR O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
jamesturnbull ?/May/08 Lead
with nick m
Skell 23/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Andy
OffshoreAndy 23/Feb/08 2nd
with Skell
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 31/Oct/07 Lead O/S

'this ain't gonna be no formality....' sure enough, it wasn't. If the cam in the flake holds then hard E4 6a. If not it's more like E5. Had little faith in the gear despite taking a while trying to get it right so felt like a solo. Brilliant line and moves either way.

with Toby, Barrows, Mason
Hidden 31/Oct/07 Lead β
v.jester 08/Aug/07 2nd
with Mysak
dan gibson 15/Jun/06 Lead RP
with helen gibson
redjerry ?/Apr/06 TR O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
bronsonite 27/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Brown 29/Oct/05 Lead RP
with Paul
Climb Rox 09/Sep/05 TR
with nick
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Gus 17/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Very hot day, greasy as sin. First time I'd let out a power scream on a route. been doing it ever since!

Mark Riley ?/Apr/03 Lead β
with Stuart Greenall
martroberts 14/Apr/02 TR RP

Didn't feel like leading it at the time. Either before the toprope or after!

Hidden 03/Apr/02 TR
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 15/Aug/00 Lead β
with Matt Hirst
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead RP

1 yo yo on a very cold day. Got good runners.

with John Kirk
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
GeoffG 09/May/99 2nd
D Tempest ??/1999 Lead O/S

Not sure of the year

with Rick
Gordon Stainforth 16/May/98 2nd

Best and hardest route I've ever done on grit.

with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean
sadams 26/Oct/97 2nd
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 12/Oct/97 2nd
Roget 28/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/97 TR dog
with Bill G
Hidden 20/Jun/95 TR
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
andybirtwistle 14/May/94 Solo

Led then soloed.

Hidden 15/Aug/93 TR
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/92 Lead β
Rob Davies 15/Sep/91 TR dog

Fumbled long reach from groove to break 1st go by getting hands wrong way round

mark-abz 21/May/90 TR
with Phil R
Billg 19/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Alan Doig
Hidden ?/Jun/89 -
Hidden 30/Oct/88 Lead dnf
shark ??/1988 Lead O/S

Think with John Myers or Phill Dickens

William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bruce Kerr 21/Oct/86 Lead
with Sandra Graham
Mike Owen 11/Oct/85 -
with Graham Lipp
sadams 04/May/85 Lead rpt
with John Dunne
Hammy 30/Aug/84 TR
Dave Musgrove 27/Jun/84 Lead β
with Paul Dawson
steve L 29/May/82 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
petemeads ?/Jul/78 Lead

Reached the layback flake but couldn't stretch to the next break or reverse the traverse - had to jump off onto the tiny stopper protection (which held). Second time made a proper job of it, making one move up the flake before reaching. One of the best routes on gritstone for my money.

with Steve Taylor
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set