Derbyshire > Stanage High Neb >
Old Friends*** E4 5c

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[Old Friends, 3 kb]18m. One of Stanage's classic E4s gives a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest (poor RPs). Swing left and pull up with difficulty (a small Friend in the base of the flake is hard to place) then make the crucial layback/stretch to reach the deep horizontal break. Move right and use the good pocket to gain the easier final wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Good E4s, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Photo: Old Friends © pete meads
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This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

barni - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/13 with Ami

bwestwood - 2nd - 16/Nov/13

pie_eater_pete - Lead β - 16/Nov/13 with bwestwood

wanted to do for a while. not dissapointed!
w.pettet-smith - 30/Oct/13 with ben

Great lunge off the flake, didnt bother with the rp's.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with James Turnbull

Matt Harle - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/12

Honking! Only top roped but no intention of leading it, 6a climbing and had to yank on the rope a couple of times!
Zoomer - TR dog - 08/Oct/12 with A Student

Top roped would never lead this, but good for the forearms. OOOCCHH!!cheers Zoomer!!
scott mayled - TR dog - 08/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - TR β - 26/May/12

2nd go on TR. Beautiful.
jamiev - TR RP - 21/Apr/12 with Tom Lewis

Bob - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

phil64 - 2nd rpt - 23/Oct/11 with nick gillett

Fell off at the flake, the cam ripped and hit the ground on rope stretch. Thought it was totally nails then realised I'd missed a hold when I went to strip the gear, gutted to have missed OS. Great route all the same!
J.Wells - Lead RP - 22/Oct/11 with Jasmine Taplin

Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 19/Aug/11

Adam Booth - TR RP - 19/Aug/11

ChrisBrooke - TR - 18/Jun/11 with Duncan Bell

.. after having a banana whilst hanging on the flake still not gave enough juice and bigger balls
Hannes B - 2nd - 24/May/11 with Mike, Tom

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Apr/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Ben C - 2011

not without whipping off first onto a purple metolius... glad to tick it on the redpoint.
highlux - Lead RP - 12/Dec/10

dswansonlow - TR dog - 09/Oct/10 with sarp

searla - TR dog - 09/Oct/10

Don't think, just climb
FlorianCastagne - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10

BOLD! The cam in the flake didn't inspire much confidence, especially since that was the only sketchy piece protecting me from a groundfall...
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Ewan

HamishD - Lead O/S - 13/May/10 with Alex

westaway - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with nathan lee

TonyF - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

On robs gear
stevebarratt - Lead β - 2010 with Rob Bryniarski

Hidden - 2010

JonBrown - TR dog - 17/Oct/09 with Dougie

dswansonlow - TR dog - 17/Oct/09 with sarp

Reversed as couldn't get any RP's to stick
Ally Smith - Lead dnf - 07/Mar/09 with Emily Goodman

koopa - TR - 2009

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 2009

E3 5c? 5b solo and then you poke in the cam with a finger which protects the crux quite nicely. Not sure where E4 comes into it.
Franco Cookson - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dave Warburton

Attempted two days ago, got to the break, so pumped I couldn't get past the pocket. Went like a dream today,
Luke Brooks - Lead β - 30/Nov/08 with Neil Pope

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/Nov/08

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Tom Randall

jamesturnbull - Lead - May/08 with nick m

Skell - Lead RP - 23/Feb/08 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Feb/08

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

'this ain't gonna be no formality....' sure enough, it wasn't. If the cam in the flake holds then hard E4 6a. If not it's more like E5. Had little faith in the gear despite taking a while trying to get it right so felt like a solo. Brilliant line and moves either way.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/07 with Toby, Barrows, Mason

Hidden - Lead β - 31/Oct/07

v.jester - 2nd - 08/Aug/07 with Mysak

dan gibson - Lead RP - 15/Jun/06 with helen gibson

redjerry - TR O/S - Apr/06

Boy - 2006

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/05 with Alex Cannon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05

Brown - Lead RP - 29/Oct/05 with Paul

Climb Rox - TR - 09/Sep/05 with nick

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Very hot day, greasy as sin. First time I'd let out a power scream on a route. been doing it ever since!
Gus - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/03

Mark Riley - Lead β - Apr/03 with Stuart Greenall

Didn't feel like leading it at the time. Either before the toprope or after!
martroberts - TR RP - 14/Apr/02

Hidden - TR - 03/Apr/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/02 with Joe le Sage

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 15/Aug/00 with Matt Hirst

Hidden - 2000

1 yo yo on a very cold day. Got good runners.
Ian Jones - Lead RP - 2000 with John Kirk

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Not sure of the year
D Tempest - Lead O/S - 1999 with Rick

Best and hardest route I've ever done on grit.
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 16/May/98 with David BA Jones, Carrie Jones, Steve Dean

sadams - 2nd - 26/Oct/97 with Hugh Cottom

ChrisJD - 2nd - 12/Oct/97 with MarkS

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/97 with jon

Chris the Tall - TR dog - Aug/97 with Bill G

Hidden - TR - 20/Jun/95

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Led then soloed.
andybirtwistle - Solo - 14/May/94

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Jul/92

mark-abz - TR - 21/May/90 with Phil R

Billg - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/89 with Alan Doig

Hidden - Jun/89

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Oct/88

Think with John Myers or Phill Dickens
shark - Lead O/S - 1988

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 21/Oct/86 with Sandra Graham

Mike Owen - 11/Oct/85 with Graham Lipp

sadams - Lead rpt - 04/May/85 with John Dunne

Hammy - TR - 30/Aug/84

Dave Musgrove - Lead β - 27/Jun/84 with Paul Dawson

steve L - Lead O/S - 29/May/82 with Alun Richardson

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Reached the layback flake but couldn't stretch to the next break or reverse the traverse - had to jump off onto the tiny stopper protection (which held). Second time made a proper job of it, making one move up the flake before reaching. One of the best routes on gritstone for my money.
petemeads - Lead - Jul/78 with Steve Taylor

Hidden - 1973

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Total votes cast 102
hard E50 of 35
E50 of 35
easy E51 of 35
hard E416 of 35
E416 of 35
easy E41 of 35
hard E31 of 35
E30 of 35
easy E30 of 35
hard 6a0 of 36
6a0 of 36
easy 6a20 of 36
hard 5c8 of 36
5c7 of 36
easy 5c1 of 36
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
3 Stars30 of 31
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 100 (1.0%)
Lead50 of 100 (50.0%)
Followed9 of 100 (9.0%)
Toproped22 of 100 (22.0%)
Unknown18 of 100 (18.0%)

'Climbed'42 of 100 (42.0%)
clean O/S24 of 100 (24.0%)
clean β9 of 100 (9.0%)
clean rpt4 of 100 (4.0%)
clean RP9 of 100 (9.0%)
dogged7 of 100 (7.0%)
dnf5 of 100 (5.0%)