Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Classic and bold. From the right-hand corner, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest. Swing left and pull up with difficulty (small cam - hard to place) then make a layback/stretch to the deep break. Move right and use a pocket to start the final wall. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1973.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Good E4s , World Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , 50 of the Best , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jemima Churchhouse | 20 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulling on is hard for the short. I protected it with a runner in the crack out right. Cheating I know, but better than a broken ankle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pulling on is hard for the short. I protected it with a runner in the crack out right. Cheating I know, but better than a broken ankle. |
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| Ian Milward | 3 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Fun Traverse
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Black Rocks)