Climbs 158
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces S

The Nadser © Sean Bell

Crag features

The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes

Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.

***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Approach buttress 
2The Cometf7A+ **1
3Pockets of ImaginationProject  
4Full MoonProject  
5Half Moonf7B ***2
6High Tidef6B 1
7The Crackf6B 4
8Low Traversef6A 4
 The Hobbit 
10Warm Up Traverse
-
f5+ 77
11Classic Crimp Traversef6A 4
12Rivendell CrackVS 5a *3
13Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
14ShelobHVS 5b  
15Evendim CornerD 4
16AragornHS 4c 7
17FrodoHS 4c 4
18LegolasVS 4c 2
19The HobbitVD 4
20BilboS 4b 27
 Swan Wall 
22Little Arete
-
D 14
23Swan Wall Aretef6A 5c 13
24Swan Wall Directf5+ 5c *104
25Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 7
26Swan Wallf4 67
27Ostrich CrackVD *52
28White Winef5 5b 164
29Rosef5+ 171
30Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 21
31Marmosetf3 4c *127
32Marmoset SSf5+ 23
33Pink Ginf6B 6b *23
34Red Rumf6B 6a **153
35Red Rum (full route)
-
E2 6a **8
36BICf7B+ 3
37The Elf Direct (full route)
-
E1 5c *16
38The Elf Directf5+ 5c *216
39The Elf Direct SSf6C 21
40Elf Aretef6B 47
41Elf Arete SS
-
f6B+ 21
42The ElfVS 5a *31
43Bad NewsE3 6a  
44Right Hand Recess CrackVD 40
45The TwitchHS 4c 9
 Main Buttress 
47Bad Company Traversef6B 13
48Bad Company Low Traversef6C 5
49Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **30
50Badfingerf5+ 5c **263
51Badfinger SSf6B *62
52Not Badf6A+ *59
53Not Bad SSf6B+ *27
54Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **24
55Bad Companyf5+ 5c **363
56Bad Company Leapf6C *25
57Catapultf8A **2
58Monk Lifef8B+ ***3
59Monty Python's Traverse
-
f7B **1
60Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)
-
VS 6a ***4
61Monty Python's Directf6C+ **204
62Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***92
63Monty Python's Flying Circusf6C 6b ***28
64Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *9
65Crouching Tigerf7B+ **44
66Hidden Dragonf7C **20
67Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***35
68Crack of Gloom SSf6A 14
69Cubby's Lipf7B+ **46
70Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 2
71Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
72The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
73Pearler Left Handf7A **12
74The Pearlerf5+ 5c *25
75WoodlarkE2 5c **1
76The Pearler SSf6A+ 13
77Pearler Right Handf7C *9
78Pearler RH SS
-
f7C+ 3
79Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *17
80Jocks and Geordiesf6C 6b *191
81Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***144
82The Yorkshiremanf7B+ ***38
83The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***10
84The Queens Earf7A+ 22
85The Queens Ear SSf7B 11
86Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***20
87Thin Hand Specialf5+ **24
88Hitchhiker's Directf7B *14
89Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **4
90Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ 6c ***116
91Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 7
92The Rack Direct SSf7C *2
93The Rack LHf5+ 7
94The Rackf4 19
95Playing Rudiesf7A+ **75
96Smart Alecf6C 29
 The Flutings 
98GreensleavesS 4b *10
99The Missing LinkHVS 5b *4
100Cruella de Vil
-
f6C 8
101Stirring up Trouble (full route)
-
E3 5c *1
102Stirring Up Trouble
-
f6A+ 10
103Trouble Shooter
-
f6B+ *1
104The Flutings DirectVS 4c **89
105PiccoloS 4a **61
106VerticalityE1 5a *57
107Zed ClimbVS 4c **109
108The Harp (full route)
-
VS 5a ***36
109The Harpf5 42
110Lower Harp Traversef6A+ 3
111Eurydicef5+ 1
112OrpheusE3 5c * 
113The MiteVS 4c 4
114The MiterVS 5a 2
 Green Man 
116The Nadserf7B+ *32
117The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
118Forgotten Wall
-
VS 4c 5
119The HulkE1 5c 14
120Green ManVS 4c *23
121Not-so-Greenf5 3
122Not-so-Green SS
-
f6B 1
123Evergreen Corner
-
S 4b 10
124Evergreen Wallf4+ 5b 2
 Bobby Dazzler 
126Primitive CrackS 4a *71
127Primatef6A+ 2
128Dingly DellHVS 5c *14
129Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **14
130AutowindHVS 6a *9
131Twinkle Toesf6C 6b * 
132Robbers Dogf5+ 5c *16
133Robbers Dog Arete
-
f6A+ 3
134PianoS 4c **14
135Fluted CrackS 4b *10
136Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
137The Undercling Traversef6B 16
138Macgregor
-
f7A+ 3
 High T 
140The EntertainerE3 5c **2
141FeanorE6 6b * 
142Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
143High SocietyE6 6b ** 
144Tom's First Problemf7A+ 1
145Tom's Second Problem
-
f6A+ 1
146High TE3 5c ***8
147The Crackf6C 7
 The Crucifix 
149Crucifix Traversef6A ***53
150The Road to Nowheref5+ 45
151The CrucifixHVS 5a ***24
152CrucifixionE3 5c * 
153The ProwE9 7a *** 
154Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
155The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
156The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
157The Gauntlet (full route)
-
E1 5b ***31
158The Gauntlet
-
f5+ **20
159The Iron Fist (full route)
-
E1 5c 1
160The Iron Fist
-
f6A 2
161Plastic Novelties
-
f5+ 1
 The Arch 
163Stealthf7B 2
164The Sicklef7A 10
165Flying Scotsmanf7A *27
166Arch Traversef7A **9
167Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
168Arch Rival
-
f7B 7

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