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These details were last updated on 10/Jun/2011

Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 149 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Access notes
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

6.7mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
19 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
29 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
23 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southern Uplands

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1The Crack (Approach Buttress)f6B 2
2Low Traverse (Approach Buttress)f6A 2
 THE HOBBIT  
4Warm Up Traversef5+ 55
5Rivendell CrackVS 5a * 
6Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
7ShelobHVS 5b  
8Evendim CornerD 2
9AragornHS 4c 6
10FrodoHS 4c 2
11LegolasVS 4c 1
12The HobbitVD 2
13BilboS 4b 22
 SWAN WALL  
15Little AreteD 12
16Swan Wall Aretef5+ 7
17Swan Wall Directf5+ *86
18Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
19Swan Wallf4 46
20Ostrich CrackVD 41
21White Winef5 118
22Rosef5+ 118
23Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
24Marmosetf4 94
25Marmoset SSf5+ 14
26Pink Ginf6B+ *14
27Red Rumf6B **117
28Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **4
29BICf7B+ 1
30The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *12
31The Elf Directf6A *161
32The Elf Direct SSf6C 17
33Elf Aretef6B 36
34Elf Arete SSf6B+ 13
35The ElfVS 5a *20
36Bad NewsE3 6a  
37Right Hand Recess CrackVD *29
38The TwitchHS 4c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
40Bad Company Traversef6B 7
41Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
42Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **23
43Badfingerf6A **190
44Badfinger SSf6B *47
45Not Badf6A+ *43
46Not Bad SSf6B+ *17
47Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **17
48Bad Companyf6A ***267
49Bad Company Leapf6C *17
50Catapultf8A+ ***2
51Monk Lifef8B+ ***2
52Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
53Monty Python's Directf6C+ **143
54Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***68
55Monty Python's Flying Circusf7A+ **18
56Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
57Crouching Tigerf7B+ **21
58Hidden Dragonf7C **13
59Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***19
60Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
61Cubby's Lipf7B+ **25
62Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
63Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
64The Pearler (full route)E3 5c * 
65Pearler Left Handf7A **7
66The Pearlerf5+ *18
67The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
68Pearler Right Handf7C *5
69Pearler RH SSf7C+  
70Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *12
71Jocks and Geordiesf6C **132
72Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***102
73The Yorkshiremanf7B+ **27
74The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***6
75The Queens Earf7A+ 10
76The Queens Ear SSf7B 5
77Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***14
78Thin Hand Specialf5+ **14
79Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
 Climb nameGradex
80Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **2
81Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ ***84
82Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 3
83The Rack Direct SSf7C+ *1
84The Rack LHf5+ 4
85The Rackf4 8
86Playing Rudiesf7A+ **57
87Smart Alecf6C 25
 THE FLUTINGS  
89GreensleavesS 4b *7
90The Missing LinkHVS 5b **2
91Cruella de Vilf6C 7
92Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
93Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 4
94Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
95The Flutings DirectVS 4c **72
96PiccoloS 4a **47
97VerticalityE1 5a *39
98Zed ClimbVS 4c **82
99The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***27
100The Harpf5 24
101Eurydicef5+ 1
102OrpheusE3 5c * 
103The MiteVS 4c 1
104The MiterVS 5a  
 GREEN MAN  
106The Nadserf7B+ **24
107The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
108Forgotten WallVS 4c 3
109The HulkE1 5c 6
110Green ManVS 4c *16
111Not-so-Greenf5 2
112Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
113Evergreen CornerS 4b 5
114Evergreen Wallf4+  
 BOBBY DAZZLER  
116Primitive CrackS 4a *56
117Primatef6A+ 2
118Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
119Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **10
120AutowindHVS 6a *6
121Twinkle Toesf6C+  
122Robbers Dogf6A 13
123Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
124PianoS 4c **8
125Fluted CrackS 4b *6
126Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
127The Undercling Traversef6B 12
128Macgregorf7A+ 3
 HIGH T  
130The EntertainerE3 5c **1
131FeanorE6 6b * 
132Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
133High SocietyE6 6b ** 
134Tom's First Problemf7A+  
135Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
136High TE3 5c ***4
137The Crackf6C 2
 THE CRUCIFIX  
139Crucifix Traversef6A ***38
140The Road to Nowheref5+ 34
141The CrucifixHVS 5a ***13
142CrucifixionE3 5c * 
143The ProwE9 7a *** 
144Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
145The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
146The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
147The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***23
148The Gauntletf5+ **16
149The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
150The Iron Fistf6A 1
151Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
 THE ARCH  
153Stealthf7B 2
154The Sicklef7A 5
155Flying Scotsmanf7A *19
156Arch Traversef7A **8
157Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
158Arch Rivalf7B 4
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11

The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06

Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05

Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03