Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Climbs 155 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Access notes
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Guidebooks
Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 APPROACH BUTTRESS  
2Cometf7A+ **1
3Pockets of ImaginationProject  
4Full MoonProject  
5Half Moonf7B ***2
6High Tidef6B 1
7The Crackf6B 2
8Low Traversef6A 2
 THE HOBBIT  
10Warm Up Traversef5+ 58
11Rivendell CrackVS 5a *1
12Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
13ShelobHVS 5b  
14Evendim CornerD 2
15AragornHS 4c 6
16FrodoHS 4c 2
17LegolasVS 4c 1
18The HobbitVD 3
19BilboS 4b 25
 SWAN WALL  
21Little AreteD 12
22Swan Wall AreteV3 5c 7
23Swan Wall DirectV2 5c *90
24Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
25Swan Wallf4 48
26Ostrich CrackVD *42
27White WineV1 5b 128
28Rosef5+ 128
29Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
30MarmosetVB 4c *97
31Marmoset SSf5+ 17
32Pink GinV4 6b *15
33Red RumV4 6a **125
34Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **5
35BICf7B+ 2
36The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *13
37The Elf DirectV2 5c *169
38The Elf Direct SSf6C 18
39Elf Aretef6B 37
40Elf Arete SSf6B+ 14
41The ElfVS 5a *22
42Bad NewsE3 6a  
43Right Hand Recess CrackVD 31
44The TwitchHS 4c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
46Bad Company Traversef6B 8
47Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
48Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **25
49BadfingerV2 5c **204
50Badfinger SSf6B *51
51Not Badf6A+ *47
52Not Bad SSf6B+ *20
53Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **19
54Bad CompanyV2 5c **285
55Bad Company Leapf6C *18
56CatapultV11 **2
57Monk LifeV14 ***2
58Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
59Monty Python's Directf6C+ **156
60Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***75
61Monty Python's Flying CircusV5 6b ***20
62Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
63Crouching Tigerf7B+ **29
64Hidden Dragonf7C **14
65Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***22
66Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
67Cubby's Lipf7B+ **27
68Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
69Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
70The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
71Pearler Left Handf7A **8
72The PearlerV2 5c *20
73The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
74Pearler Right Handf7C *6
75Pearler RH SSf7C+ 1
76Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *14
77Jocks and GeordiesV5 6b *145
78Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***109
79The YorkshiremanV8+ ***30
80The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***7
81The Queens Earf7A+ 12
82The Queens Ear SSf7B 6
83Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***15
84Thin Hand Specialf5+ **17
85Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
86Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **2
87Hitch Hiker's Guide to the GalaxyV7 6c ***94
88Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 3
89The Rack Direct SSV9 *1
90The Rack LHf5+ 6
91The Rackf4 10
92Playing Rudiesf7A+ **64
93Smart Alecf6C 27
 THE FLUTINGS  
95GreensleavesS 4b *8
96The Missing LinkHVS 5b *3
97Cruella de Vilf6C 7
98Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
99Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 5
100Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
101The Flutings DirectVS 4c **75
102PiccoloS 4a **50
103VerticalityE1 5a *41
104Zed ClimbVS 4c **89
105The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***28
106The Harpf5 26
107Eurydicef5+ 1
108OrpheusE3 5c * 
109The MiteVS 4c 1
110The MiterVS 5a  
 GREEN MAN  
112The NadserV6 6c *24
113The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
114Forgotten WallVS 4c 4
115The HulkE1 5c 6
116Green ManVS 4c *17
117Not-so-Greenf5 2
118Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
119Evergreen CornerS 4b 6
120Evergreen WallV0+ 5b  
 BOBBY DAZZLER  
122Primitive CrackS 4a *58
123Primatef6A+ 2
124Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
125Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **11
126AutowindHVS 6a *6
127Twinkle ToesV5 6b * 
128Robbers DogV2 5c *13
129Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
130PianoS 4c **9
131Fluted CrackS 4b *6
132Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
133The Undercling Traversef6B 13
134Macgregorf7A+ 3
 HIGH T  
136The EntertainerE3 5c **1
137FeanorE6 6b * 
138Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
139High SocietyE6 6b ** 
140Tom's First Problemf7A+  
141Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
142High TE3 5c ***5
143The Crackf6C 3
 THE CRUCIFIX  
145Crucifix Traversef6A ***41
146The Road to Nowheref5+ 35
147The CrucifixHVS 5a ***14
148CrucifixionE3 5c * 
149The ProwE9 7a *** 
150Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
151The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
152The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
153The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***25
154The Gauntletf5+ **17
155The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
156The Iron Fistf6A 1
157Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
 THE ARCH  
159Stealthf7B 2
160The Sicklef7A 7
161Flying Scotsmanf7A *21
162Arch Traversef7A **8
163Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
164Arch Rivalf7B 5
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03