Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Climbs 157 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes
Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.

***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989), Northumberland (1979)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The Cometf7A+ **1
3Pockets of ImaginationProject  
4Full MoonProject  
5Half Moonf7B ***2
6High Tidef6B 1
7The Crackf6B 3
8Low Traversef6A 3
10Warm Up Traversef5+ 60
11Classic Crimp Traversef6A 1
12Rivendell CrackVS 5a *1
13Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
14ShelobHVS 5b  
15Evendim CornerD 3
16AragornHS 4c 6
17FrodoHS 4c 3
18LegolasVS 4c 2
19The HobbitVD 3
20BilboS 4b 25
22Little AreteD 14
23Swan Wall Aretef6A 5c 9
24Swan Wall Directf5+ 5c *97
25Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 6
26Swan Wallf4 59
27Ostrich CrackVD *47
28White Winef5 5b 148
29Rosef5+ 153
30Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 17
31Marmosetf3 4c *113
32Marmoset SSf5+ 19
33Pink Ginf6B 6b *18
34Red Rumf6B 6a **140
35Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **7
36BICf7B+ 2
37The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *14
38The Elf Directf5+ 5c *188
39The Elf Direct SSf6C 20
40Elf Aretef6B 42
41Elf Arete SSf6B+ 18
42The ElfVS 5a *27
43Bad NewsE3 6a  
44Right Hand Recess CrackVD 37
45The TwitchHS 4c 7
47Bad Company Traversef6B 11
48Bad Company Low Traversef6C 5
49Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **28
50Badfingerf5+ 5c **223
51Badfinger SSf6B *55
52Not Badf6A+ *51
53Not Bad SSf6B+ *23
54Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **22
55Bad Companyf5+ 5c **318
56Bad Company Leapf6C *20
57Catapultf8A **2
58Monk Lifef8B+ ***2
59Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
60Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)VS 6a ***2
61Monty Python's Directf6C+ **172
62Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***83
63Monty Python's Flying Circusf6C 6b ***24
64Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *9
65Crouching Tigerf7B+ **33
66Hidden Dragonf7C **18
67Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***28
68Crack of Gloom SSf6A 14
69Cubby's Lipf7B+ **30
70Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
71Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
72The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
73Pearler Left Handf7A **11
74The Pearlerf5+ 5c *23
75The Pearler SSf6A+ 11
76Pearler Right Handf7C *8
77Pearler RH SSf7C+ 2
78Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *15
79Jocks and Geordiesf6C 6b *156
80Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***120
81The Yorkshiremanf7B+ ***33
82The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***8
83The Queens Earf7A+ 17
84The Queens Ear SSf7B 8
85Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***18
86Thin Hand Specialf5+ **19
87Hitchhiker's Directf7B *12
88Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **3
89Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ 6c ***104
90Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 5
91The Rack Direct SSf7C *1
92The Rack LHf5+ 6
93The Rackf4 15
94Playing Rudiesf7A+ **71
95Smart Alecf6C 28
97GreensleavesS 4b *9
98The Missing LinkHVS 5b *3
99Cruella de Vilf6C 8
100Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
101Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 8
102Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
103The Flutings DirectVS 4c **83
104PiccoloS 4a **56
105VerticalityE1 5a *49
106Zed ClimbVS 4c **100
107The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***33
108The Harpf5 35
109Lower Harp Traversef6A+ 3
110Eurydicef5+ 1
111OrpheusE3 5c * 
112The MiteVS 4c 3
113The MiterVS 5a 1
115The Nadserf7B+ *29
116The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
117Forgotten WallVS 4c 5
118The HulkE1 5c 13
119Green ManVS 4c *21
120Not-so-Greenf5 2
121Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
122Evergreen CornerS 4b 7
123Evergreen Wallf4+ 5b  
125Primitive CrackS 4a *65
126Primatef6A+ 2
127Dingly DellHVS 5c *12
128Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **12
129AutowindHVS 6a *7
130Twinkle Toesf6C 6b * 
131Robbers Dogf5+ 5c *14
132Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
133PianoS 4c **12
134Fluted CrackS 4b *7
135Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
136The Undercling Traversef6B 14
137Macgregorf7A+ 3
139The EntertainerE3 5c **1
140FeanorE6 6b * 
141Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
142High SocietyE6 6b ** 
143Tom's First Problemf7A+ 1
144Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
145High TE3 5c ***6
146The Crackf6C 6
148Crucifix Traversef6A ***48
149The Road to Nowheref5+ 39
150The CrucifixHVS 5a ***22
151CrucifixionE3 5c * 
152The ProwE9 7a *** 
153Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
154The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
155The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
156The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***30
157The Gauntletf5+ **18
158The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
159The Iron Fistf6A 1
160Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
162Stealthf7B 2
163The Sicklef7A 10
164Flying Scotsmanf7A *23
165Arch Traversef7A **8
166Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
167Arch Rivalf7B 7
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See:
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03