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View larger mapGrid Ref NU 045388 (OS Landranger #75)

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These details were last updated on 10/Jun/2011

Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 149 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
6 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
8 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
24 kph

1.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
19 kph

4.8mm rain
10 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southern Uplands

Northern England (2008), Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Warm Up Traversef5+ 53
3Rivendell CrackVS 5a * 
4Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
5ShelobHVS 5b  
6Evendim CornerD 2
7AragornHS 4c 6
8FrodoHS 4c 2
9LegolasVS 4c 1
10The HobbitVD 2
11BilboS 4b 22
13Little AreteD 12
14Swan Wall Aretef5+ 7
15Swan Wall Directf5+ *84
16Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
17Swan Wallf4 43
18Ostrich CrackVD 41
19White Winef5 116
20Rosef5+ 115
21Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
22Marmosetf4 92
23Marmoset SSf5+ 12
24Pink Ginf6B+ *12
25Red Rumf6B **111
26Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **3
27BICf7B+ 1
28The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *11
29The Elf Directf6A *158
30The Elf Direct SSf6C 17
31Elf Aretef6B 34
32Elf Arete SSf6B+ 13
33The ElfVS 5a *20
34Bad NewsE3 6a  
35Right Hand Recess CrackVD *29
36The TwitchHS 4c 5
38Bad Company Traversef6B 7
39Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
40Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **22
41Badfingerf6A **183
42Badfinger SSf6B *43
43Not Badf6A+ *41
44Not Bad SSf6B+ *16
45Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **16
46Bad Companyf6A ***258
47Bad Company Leapf6C *15
48Catapultf8A+ ***2
49Monk Lifef8B+ ***1
50Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
51Monty Python's Directf6C+ **135
52Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***63
53Monty Python's Flying Circusf7A+ **18
54Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
55Crouching Tigerf7B+ **21
56Hidden Dragonf7C **13
57Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***19
58Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
59Cubby's Lipf7B+ **25
60Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
61Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
62The Pearler (full route)E3 5c * 
63Pearler Left Handf7A **7
64The Pearlerf5+ *18
65The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
66Pearler Right Handf7C *5
67Pearler RH SSf7C+  
68Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *11
69Jocks and Geordiesf6C **122
70Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***95
71The Yorkshiremanf7B+ **26
72The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***5
73The Queens Earf7A+ 10
74The Queens Ear SSf7B 5
75Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***13
76Thin Hand Specialf5+ **14
77Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
78Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **2
79Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ ***79
 Climb nameGradex
80Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 3
81The Rack Direct SSf7C+ *1
82The Rack LHf5+ 4
83The Rackf4 8
84Playing Rudiesf7A+ **51
85Smart Alecf6C 25
87GreensleavesS 4b *7
88The Missing LinkHVS 5b **2
89Cruella de Vilf6C 7
90Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
91Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 4
92Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
93The Flutings DirectVS 4c **72
94PiccoloS 4a **47
95VerticalityE1 5a *38
96Zed ClimbVS 4c **82
97The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***26
98The Harpf5 24
99OrpheusE3 5c * 
100The MiteVS 4c 1
101The MiterVS 5a  
103The Nadserf7B+ **23
104The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
105Forgotten WallVS 4c 3
106The HulkE1 5c 6
107Green ManVS 4c *16
108Not-so-Greenf5 2
109Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
110Evergreen CornerS 4b 5
111Evergreen Wallf4+  
113Primitive CrackS 4a *56
114Primatef6A+ 2
115Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
116Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **10
117AutowindHVS 6a *6
118Twinkle Toesf6C+  
119Robbers Dogf6A 13
120Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
121PianoS 4c **8
122Fluted CrackS 4b *6
123Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
124The Undercling Traversef6B 12
125Macgregorf7A+ 3
127The EntertainerE3 5c **1
128FeanorE6 6b * 
129Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
130High SocietyE6 6b ** 
131Tom's First Problemf7A+  
132Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
133High TE3 5c ***4
134The Crackf6C 2
136Crucifix Traversef6A ***38
137The Road to Nowheref5+ 34
138The CrucifixHVS 5a ***13
139CrucifixionE3 5c * 
140The ProwE9 7a *** 
141Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
142The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
143The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
144The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***22
145The Gauntletf5+ **16
146The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c  
147The Iron Fistf6A 1
148Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
150Stealthf7B 2
151The Sicklef7A 5
152Flying Scotsmanf7A *19
153Arch Traversef7A **8
154Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
155Arch Rivalf7B 4
156The Crack (Approach Buttress) *f6B 2
157Low Traverse (Approach Buttress) *f6A 2
158Eurydice *f5+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Access notes
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11

The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See:
Fiend - 18/Apr/06

Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05

Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03