Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Climbs 155 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Access notes
Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.

***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 APPROACH BUTTRESS  
2The Cometf7A+ **1
3Pockets of ImaginationProject  
4Full MoonProject  
5Half Moonf7B ***2
6High Tidef6B 1
7The Crackf6B 3
8Low Traversef6A 2
 THE HOBBIT  
10Warm Up Traversef5+ 58
11Rivendell CrackVS 5a *1
12Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
13ShelobHVS 5b  
14Evendim CornerD 2
15AragornHS 4c 6
16FrodoHS 4c 2
17LegolasVS 4c 1
18The HobbitVD 3
19BilboS 4b 25
 SWAN WALL  
21Little AreteD 12
22Swan Wall AreteV3 5c 7
23Swan Wall DirectV2 5c *91
24Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
25Swan Wallf4 49
26Ostrich CrackVD *42
27White WineV1 5b 132
28Rosef5+ 131
29Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
30MarmosetVB 4c *101
31Marmoset SSf5+ 17
32Pink GinV4 6b *16
33Red RumV4 6a **129
34Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **5
35BICf7B+ 2
36The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *13
37The Elf DirectV2 5c *175
38The Elf Direct SSf6C 18
39Elf Aretef6B 39
40Elf Arete SSf6B+ 16
41The ElfVS 5a *22
42Bad NewsE3 6a  
43Right Hand Recess CrackVD 33
44The TwitchHS 4c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
46Bad Company Traversef6B 8
47Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
48Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **25
49BadfingerV2 5c **210
50Badfinger SSf6B *53
51Not Badf6A+ *47
52Not Bad SSf6B+ *21
53Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **20
54Bad CompanyV2 5c **291
55Bad Company Leapf6C *18
56CatapultV11 **2
57Monk LifeV14 ***2
58Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
59Monty Python's Flying Circus (full route)VS 6a ***2
60Monty Python's Directf6C+ **161
61Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***78
62Monty Python's Flying CircusV5 6b ***20
63Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
64Crouching Tigerf7B+ **29
65Hidden Dragonf7C **14
66Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***24
67Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
68Cubby's Lipf7B+ **27
69Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
70Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
71The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
72Pearler Left Handf7A **8
73The PearlerV2 5c *20
74The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
75Pearler Right Handf7C *6
76Pearler RH SSf7C+ 1
77Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *15
78Jocks and GeordiesV5 6b *146
79Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***110
80The YorkshiremanV8+ ***31
81The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***7
82The Queens Earf7A+ 12
83The Queens Ear SSf7B 6
84Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***17
85Thin Hand Specialf5+ **18
86Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
87Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **3
88Hitch Hiker's Guide to the GalaxyV7 6c ***96
89Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 4
90The Rack Direct SSV9 *1
91The Rack LHf5+ 6
92The Rackf4 10
93Playing Rudiesf7A+ **65
94Smart Alecf6C 27
 THE FLUTINGS  
96GreensleavesS 4b *8
97The Missing LinkHVS 5b *3
98Cruella de Vilf6C 7
99Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
100Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 5
101Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
102The Flutings DirectVS 4c **76
103PiccoloS 4a **50
104VerticalityE1 5a *42
105Zed ClimbVS 4c **89
106The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***28
107The Harpf5 28
108Eurydicef5+ 1
109OrpheusE3 5c * 
110The MiteVS 4c 1
111The MiterVS 5a  
 GREEN MAN  
113The NadserV6 6c *24
114The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
115Forgotten WallVS 4c 4
116The HulkE1 5c 6
117Green ManVS 4c *17
118Not-so-Greenf5 2
119Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
120Evergreen CornerS 4b 6
121Evergreen WallV0+ 5b  
 BOBBY DAZZLER  
123Primitive CrackS 4a *58
124Primatef6A+ 2
125Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
126Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **11
127AutowindHVS 6a *6
128Twinkle ToesV5 6b * 
129Robbers DogV2 5c *13
130Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
131PianoS 4c **9
132Fluted CrackS 4b *6
133Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
134The Undercling Traversef6B 13
135Macgregorf7A+ 3
 HIGH T  
137The EntertainerE3 5c **1
138FeanorE6 6b * 
139Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
140High SocietyE6 6b ** 
141Tom's First Problemf7A+  
142Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
143High TE3 5c ***5
144The Crackf6C 3
 THE CRUCIFIX  
146Crucifix Traversef6A ***41
147The Road to Nowheref5+ 35
148The CrucifixHVS 5a ***16
149CrucifixionE3 5c * 
150The ProwE9 7a *** 
151Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
152The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
153The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
154The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***25
155The Gauntletf5+ **17
156The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
157The Iron Fistf6A 1
158Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
 THE ARCH  
160Stealthf7B 2
161The Sicklef7A 9
162Flying Scotsmanf7A *21
163Arch Traversef7A **8
164Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
165Arch Rivalf7B 6
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03