Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Climbs 153 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Access notes
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Pockets of ImaginationProject  
 APPROACH BUTTRESS  
3Full MoonProject  
4Half Moonf7B ***2
5High Tidef6B 1
6The Crackf6B 2
7Low Traversef6A 2
 THE HOBBIT  
9Warm Up Traversef5+ 57
10Rivendell CrackVS 5a *1
11Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
12ShelobHVS 5b  
13Evendim CornerD 2
14AragornHS 4c 6
15FrodoHS 4c 2
16LegolasVS 4c 1
17The HobbitVD 3
18BilboS 4b 22
 SWAN WALL  
20Little AreteD 12
21Swan Wall Aretef5+ 7
22Swan Wall Directf5+ *89
23Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
24Swan Wallf4 47
25Ostrich CrackVD 41
26White Winef5 121
27Rosef5+ 121
28Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
29Marmosetf4 94
30Marmoset SSf5+ 16
31Pink Ginf6B+ *14
32Red Rumf6B **121
33Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **5
34BICf7B+ 1
35The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *13
36The Elf Directf6A *166
37The Elf Direct SSf6C 18
38Elf Aretef6B 37
39Elf Arete SSf6B+ 13
40The ElfVS 5a *21
41Bad NewsE3 6a  
42Right Hand Recess CrackVD *30
43The TwitchHS 4c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
45Bad Company Traversef6B 8
46Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
47Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **25
48Badfingerf6A **197
49Badfinger SSf6B *49
50Not Badf6A+ *46
51Not Bad SSf6B+ *18
52Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **19
53Bad Companyf6A ***277
54Bad Company Leapf6C *17
55Catapultf8A+ ***2
56Monk Lifef8B+ ***2
57Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
58Monty Python's Directf6C+ **150
59Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***71
60Monty Python's Flying Circusf7A+ **19
61Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
62Crouching Tigerf7B+ **25
63Hidden Dragonf7C **13
64Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***21
65Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
66Cubby's Lipf7B+ **25
67Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
68Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
69The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
70Pearler Left Handf7A **8
71The Pearlerf5+ *19
72The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
73Pearler Right Handf7C *6
74Pearler RH SSf7C+ 1
75Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *14
76Jocks and Geordiesf6C **138
77Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***106
78The Yorkshiremanf7B+ **27
79The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***6
80The Queens Earf7A+ 12
81The Queens Ear SSf7B 6
82Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***15
83Thin Hand Specialf5+ **17
84Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
85Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **2
86Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ ***88
87Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 3
88The Rack Direct SSf7C+ *1
89The Rack LHf5+ 5
90The Rackf4 9
91Playing Rudiesf7A+ **60
92Smart Alecf6C 25
 THE FLUTINGS  
94GreensleavesS 4b *8
95The Missing LinkHVS 5b **3
96Cruella de Vilf6C 7
97Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
98Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 4
99Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
100The Flutings DirectVS 4c **73
101PiccoloS 4a **49
102VerticalityE1 5a *40
103Zed ClimbVS 4c **87
104The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***28
105The Harpf5 25
106Eurydicef5+ 1
107OrpheusE3 5c * 
108The MiteVS 4c 1
109The MiterVS 5a  
 GREEN MAN  
111The Nadserf7B+ **24
112The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
113Forgotten WallVS 4c 4
114The HulkE1 5c 6
115Green ManVS 4c *17
116Not-so-Greenf5 2
117Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
118Evergreen CornerS 4b 5
119Evergreen Wallf4+  
 BOBBY DAZZLER  
121Primitive CrackS 4a *57
122Primatef6A+ 2
123Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
124Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **11
125AutowindHVS 6a *6
126Twinkle Toesf6C+  
127Robbers Dogf6A 13
128Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
129PianoS 4c **8
130Fluted CrackS 4b *6
131Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
132The Undercling Traversef6B 13
133Macgregorf7A+ 3
 HIGH T  
135The EntertainerE3 5c **1
136FeanorE6 6b * 
137Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
138High SocietyE6 6b ** 
139Tom's First Problemf7A+  
140Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
141High TE3 5c ***5
142The Crackf6C 3
 THE CRUCIFIX  
144Crucifix Traversef6A ***40
145The Road to Nowheref5+ 35
146The CrucifixHVS 5a ***14
147CrucifixionE3 5c * 
148The ProwE9 7a *** 
149Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
150The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
151The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
152The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***25
153The Gauntletf5+ **17
154The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
155The Iron Fistf6A 1
156Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
 THE ARCH  
158Stealthf7B 2
159The Sicklef7A 7
160Flying Scotsmanf7A *21
161Arch Traversef7A **8
162Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
163Arch Rivalf7B 5
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03