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These details were last updated on 10/Jun/2011

Kyloe-in-the-wood (Kyloe-In)

Northumberland, ENGLAND

Climbs 152 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 154m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Access notes
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
8 kph

0.3mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
12 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
15 °C
9 kph

1.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
12 kph

1.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Southern Uplands

Guidebooks
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008), Northern England (2008), Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004),
Out of print: Northumberland (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Pockets of ImaginationProject  
2Full MoonProject  
3Half Moonf7B ***2
4The Crack (Approach Buttress)f6B 2
5Low Traverse (Approach Buttress)f6A 2
 THE HOBBIT  
7Warm Up Traversef5+ 57
8Rivendell CrackVS 5a *1
9Mordor FrontHVS 5a  
10ShelobHVS 5b  
11Evendim CornerD 2
12AragornHS 4c 6
13FrodoHS 4c 2
14LegolasVS 4c 1
15The HobbitVD 3
16BilboS 4b 22
 SWAN WALL  
18Little AreteD 12
19Swan Wall Aretef5+ 7
20Swan Wall Directf5+ *88
21Swan Wall (full route)VS 4c 5
22Swan Wallf4 46
23Ostrich CrackVD 41
24White Winef5 119
25Rosef5+ 120
26Marmoset (full route)MVS 4c 15
27Marmosetf4 94
28Marmoset SSf5+ 15
29Pink Ginf6B+ *14
30Red Rumf6B **120
31Red Rum (full route)E2 6a **5
32BICf7B+ 1
33The Elf Direct (full route)E1 5c *13
34The Elf Directf6A *163
35The Elf Direct SSf6C 18
36Elf Aretef6B 36
37Elf Arete SSf6B+ 13
38The ElfVS 5a *21
39Bad NewsE3 6a  
40Right Hand Recess CrackVD *30
41The TwitchHS 4c 5
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
43Bad Company Traversef6B 8
44Bad Company Low Traversef6C 4
45Badfinger (full route)E2 5c **25
46Badfingerf6A **192
47Badfinger SSf6B *48
48Not Badf6A+ *45
49Not Bad SSf6B+ *18
50Bad Company (full route)E2 5c **19
51Bad Companyf6A ***271
52Bad Company Leapf6C *17
53Catapultf8A+ ***2
54Monk Lifef8B+ ***2
55Monty Python's Traversef7B **1
56Monty Python's Directf6C+ **149
57Monty Python's Direct SSf7A+ ***71
58Monty Python's Flying Circusf7A+ **19
59Monty Python's Flying Circus SSf7B *8
60Crouching Tigerf7B+ **25
61Hidden Dragonf7C **13
62Crack of Gloom (full route)VS 4c ***21
63Crack of Gloom SSf6A 13
64Cubby's Lipf7B+ **25
65Cubbys - Jocks Linkf7C+ 1
66Cubbys - Yorkshireman Linkf8A+  
67The Pearler (full route)E3 5c *1
68Pearler Left Handf7A **7
69The Pearlerf5+ *19
70The Pearler SSf6A+ 9
71Pearler Right Handf7C *5
72Pearler RH SSf7C+  
73Pearler-Jocks Linkf7B *14
74Jocks and Geordiesf6C **136
75Jocks and Geordies SSf7A ***105
76The Yorkshiremanf7B+ **27
77The Yorkshireman SSf7C+ ***6
78The Queens Earf7A+ 12
79The Queens Ear SSf7B 6
80Thin Hand Special (full route)E1 5c ***15
81Thin Hand Specialf5+ **17
 Climb nameGradex
82Hitchhiker's Directf7B *11
83Hitchhiker's Direct SSf7C+ **2
84Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxyf7A+ ***88
85Hitchhikers SS (Right Hand)f7C+ 3
86The Rack Direct SSf7C+ *1
87The Rack LHf5+ 5
88The Rackf4 9
89Playing Rudiesf7A+ **60
90Smart Alecf6C 25
 THE FLUTINGS  
92GreensleavesS 4b *8
93The Missing LinkHVS 5b **3
94Cruella de Vilf6C 7
95Stirring up Trouble (full route)E3 5c * 
96Stirring Up Troublef6A+ 4
97Trouble Shooterf6B+ * 
98The Flutings DirectVS 4c **73
99PiccoloS 4a **48
100VerticalityE1 5a *40
101Zed ClimbVS 4c **86
102The Harp (full route)VS 5a ***28
103The Harpf5 25
104Eurydicef5+ 1
105OrpheusE3 5c * 
106The MiteVS 4c 1
107The MiterVS 5a  
 GREEN MAN  
109The Nadserf7B+ **24
110The Nadser (RH variation)f6A 6
111Forgotten WallVS 4c 4
112The HulkE1 5c 6
113Green ManVS 4c *17
114Not-so-Greenf5 2
115Not-so-Green SSf6B 1
116Evergreen CornerS 4b 5
117Evergreen Wallf4+  
 BOBBY DAZZLER  
119Primitive CrackS 4a *57
120Primatef6A+ 2
121Dingly DellHVS 5c *10
122Bobby DazzlerHVS 5c **11
123AutowindHVS 6a *6
124Twinkle Toesf6C+  
125Robbers Dogf6A 13
126Robbers Dog Aretef6A+ 1
127PianoS 4c **8
128Fluted CrackS 4b *6
129Penny WhistleE2 5c * 
130The Undercling Traversef6B 13
131Macgregorf7A+ 3
 HIGH T  
133The EntertainerE3 5c **1
134FeanorE6 6b * 
135Upper CrustE5 6b *** 
136High SocietyE6 6b ** 
137Tom's First Problemf7A+  
138Tom's Second Problemf6A+ 1
139High TE3 5c ***5
140The Crackf6C 3
 THE CRUCIFIX  
142Crucifix Traversef6A ***39
143The Road to Nowheref5+ 34
144The CrucifixHVS 5a ***14
145CrucifixionE3 5c * 
146The ProwE9 7a *** 
147Hourglass ChimneyS 4b  
148The Spanish Ticklerf7C+ *** 
149The Gauntlet Traversef7A ** 
150The Gauntlet (full route)E1 5b ***25
151The Gauntletf5+ **17
152The Iron Fist (full route)E1 5c 1
153The Iron Fistf6A 1
154Plastic Noveltiesf5+ 1
 THE ARCH  
156Stealthf7B 2
157The Sicklef7A 5
158Flying Scotsmanf7A *21
159Arch Traversef7A **8
160Arch Traverse Eliminatef7A+ 1
161Arch Rivalf7B 5
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11

The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06

Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05

Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03