Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
The Nadser © Sean Bell
The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.
Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..
Access relationships at Kyloe Crag and Kyloe-in-the-woods are good, please ensure that they stay that way. Park sensibly (don't block the gateways) and keep dogs under control - particular when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle.
***Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - there will be a sign on site when the stalker is working and Woodland Management will prohibit access to the crag.***
Turn off the A1 at Fenwick, and head for Lowick. Turn left at the crossroads before Lowick, past Kyloe Crag and park at a forestry gate on the LH side of the road. Follow the forest road for about 0.5km and follow a track straight on when the road swings left (the left turn is currently signposted 'WS'). After 300 metres turn right at a crossroads ('WS1' is signposted to the left). The crag appears on the left through the trees after about 250m.
|Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK|
karlb - 20/Apr/15
|Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.|
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
|The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags.
At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581|
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
|Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.|
Marts - 24/Jul/05
|Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here.
Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids.
Definitely worth a visit.|
CJC - 02/Apr/03