Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces NW

Mark G on the crux of Vibrio © CragHead

Crag features

A much underrated edge, don't be put of by its lichenous appearance. Always climbable, except after rain. A collection of buttress (10 to 15m) of fine natural grit. Sheltered. Limited No. of routes of all grades, but something for everyone. Classics are Emperor Flake Climb(VD), Cave Crack (S), The Puppet Crack (HVS 5b), Vibrio (E1 5b) and the delectable Pearls (E2 5c). Pick of the bunch are the jamming test pieces, Sentinel Crack (E2 5c) and Emerald Crack (E3 6a), still standing the test of time.

Approach notes

Lies east and parallel to the A619 Chesterfield - Baslow Rd. Approach from footpath approx. 100m south of the Eric Byne Car Park (SK 279721). Bus stop nearby.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
Nice quiet crag, quite overgrown in places but climbing is good. Paying for it now though - total midge fest.
Becks87 - 20/Jul/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Tree Buttress 
2Aquiline ArÍteVS 4b 1
3Mr Smith's Vegetable PatchVS 4b  
4Arboreal AttackE1 6a  
5La SensusS  
 Mort Wall 
7SidewinderHVS 5b *43
8Mort WallHVS 5a **258
9Slip ArÍteE2 5b **70
10Strangler's GrooveS 4a *124
11Strangler's CrackHVD *84
12Throttled GrooveS 4b *68
13DumperE1 5b *7
14JumpersE3 6a *3
15Where Next, Columbus?E2 5c  
16LeaperVS 5b 30
17Choked CrackD *138
18Choked ChimneyVD 64
 Sentinel Buttress 
20The Puppet CrackHVS 5b **59
21Sentinel CrackE3 5c ***64
22Welcome to the Body Park
E5 6b * 
23Sentinel ButtressE3 5c *1
24Sentinel GrooveE6 6c * 
25The Train Now StandingE5 6b * 
26No One Here Gets Out AliveE6 6c  
27Cave ClimbD *74
28More Tea Vicar?E4 6b  
29Wrinkled NoseVS 4b *3
30Shy Boy
E4 6b *2
31Cave CrackS 4b **80
32Pretty VacantE1 5a 12
33Monk's ParkE1 5c 12
34Sloping CrackVD 16
35LichenE2 5b ***19
 High Step to Spiral Route 
37Do You Wanna?HVS 5a 12
38Tree CrackVD 13
39CadenzaE3 5c 3
40High StepE1 5a **64
41PriceHVS 5a 32
42Overlapping Rib
43Spiral RouteVS 5a 4
44The DirectE1 5b  
45The Morning AfterE1 5b  
46Three Pebble SlobE1 5c  
 Tooth Buttress 
48Tooth ArÍte
VS 4b *6
49Tooth Crack
VD 4a 3
50Tree Chimney
D 8
51Pear Slab
VS 4c 4
52Short Crack
VS 4c *6
 Emerald Crack 
54The ClaspE3 5b *4
55EmilyHVS 5a  
56Left Twin CrackS 4a **16
57Emerald CrackE3 6a ***55
58Esmereldaf6A 6
59Diamond LifeE5 6b * 
60PearlsE2 5c **133
61Double Cave ClimbVD 4a 24
62Capstone ChimneyVD 4a 4
63The ArÍteVS 4c 3
64Dead Tree Crack
HS 4b 5
65Dead Tree Ridge
VD 2
 Vibrio Area 
67High in the Thin Cold AirHVS 5a 1
68Step ButtressHVD *30
69Good VibrationsE2 5c *1
70VibrioE1 5b **102
71Vibrio DirectE2 6a **43
72Twisted ReachE4 6b *2
73Step Buttress CrackVD 12
74Mark PrettyVD 2
75Broken Buttress ClimbVS 4b *26
76Ladies' Way
VD 7
77Choked Flake Climb
HD 8
78NoserVS 4c *11
 Oak Tree Climb 
80Thin AirVS 4c 2
81Oak Tree ClimbS 4a 12
82The Road to DomestosVS 4c 1
83Zigzag FinishHS 4b *8
84Shut Your MouthE2 5c  
85I Don't Know What My Mouth Was Saying
E1 5b  
86Oak Tree Recess
D 1
87Skylight Gullies
M 6
88O'Reilly's StaircaseS 4a *13
89Calypso CrackHVD 4a 5
 Emperor Buttress 
91Emperor Flake ClimbVD **185
92Emperor Flake Climb Direct Finish
VS 4c 4
93Emperor CrackVS 4c *98
94The TyrantE2 5c 8
95Desperotf7A+ **37
96DespotE1 5c *53
97Empress CrackS 4b **114
98Princess CrackD 11
99Prince's CrackHS 4b **94
100Up the EstablishmentE1 5b *44
101Anarchist's ArÍteVS 4c *59
102Emperor's StruggleS 4a *21
103Doctor's Doddle
VS 5a 4
104Holly Tree ArÍteS 4a 3
105The Republican Tour
HS 4b * 
106The Royal Tour
HS 1
 Jerk Buttress 
108Lateral Thinking
HVS 5b  
E1 5c * 
110Some Jerk on TVE1 5b *5
111Weanie Meanie
E4 6c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83