Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces NW

Mark G on the crux of Vibrio © CragHead

Crag features

Retiring and evermore neglected despite our best efforts, Chatsworth is the Cinderella of the Eastern Edges. It faces northwest and only receives sun on summer afternoons. It might be expected that the proximity of the A619 with its never-ending stream of traffic would spoil the cliff, but the thick tree cover muffles the noise. The slope below the cliff is overgrown by the start of the summer, making navigation along the foot of the cliff tricky. Also large trees growing close to the cliff face have encouraged lichen growth in recent years. Despite these negative aspects, under the right conditions climbing here is pleasant as the main buttresses escape the worst of the vegetation. The best routes here are the equal of any on grit, and any true gritstoner will one day have to bite the bullet and throw themselves at the likes of Vibrio, Emerald Crack, Pearls and the intimidating battle of Sentinel Crack. If you like to climb away from the crowds it is worth putting Chatsworth on your list. It is possible to have the place pretty much to yourself, and from the top of the buttresses the crowds on nearby Birchen are visible.

Approach notes

There is parkingby the Robin Hood Inn. Walk down the road for 150m to a discreet stile on the opposite side of the road. Cross this and follow steps down to a well-made track that runs rightwards to the crag; less than 10mins from the parking.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
Nice quiet crag, quite overgrown in places but climbing is good. Paying for it now though - total midge fest.
Becks87 - 20/Jul/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Tree Buttress 
2Aquiline ArÍteVS 4b 1
3Mr Smith's Vegetable PatchVS 4b  
4Arboreal AttackE1 6a  
5La SensusS  
 Mort Wall 
7SidewinderHVS 5b *44
8Mort WallHVS 5a **249
9Slip ArÍteE2 5b **72
10Strangler's GrooveS 4a *125
11Strangler's CrackHVD *86
12Throttled GrooveS 4b *69
13DumperE1 5b *7
14JumpersE3 6a *3
15Where Next, Columbus?E2 5c  
 Sentinel Buttress 
17LeaperVS 5b 31
18Choked CrackD *139
19Choked ChimneyVD 64
20The Puppet CrackHVS 5b **60
21Sentinel CrackE3 5c ***41
22Welcome to the Body Park
-
E5 6b * 
23Sentinel ButtressE3 5c *1
24Sentinel GrooveE6 6c * 
25The Train Now StandingE5 6b * 
26No One Here Gets Out AliveE6 6c  
27Cave ClimbD *74
28More Tea Vicar?E4 6b  
29Wrinkled NoseVS 4b *3
30Shy Boy
-
V6 *2
31Cave CrackS 4b **81
32Pretty VacantE1 5a 12
33Monk's ParkE1 5c 12
34Sloping CrackVD 16
35LichenE2 5b ***19
 High Step 
37Do You Wanna?HVS 5a 12
38Tree CrackVD 13
39CadenzaE3 5c 4
40High StepE1 5a **65
41PriceHVS 5a 33
42Overlapping Rib
-
HVD 1
 Spiral Route 
44Spiral RouteVS 5a 4
45The DirectE1 5b  
46The Morning AfterE1 5b  
47Three Pebble SlobE1 5c  
 Tooth Buttress 
49Tooth ArÍte
-
VS 4b *6
50Tooth Crack
-
VD 4a 3
51Tree Chimney
-
D 8
52Pear Slab
-
VS 4c 4
53Short Crack
-
VS 4c *6
 Emerald Crack 
55The ClaspE3 5b *4
56EmilyHVS 5a  
57Left Twin CrackS 4a **16
58Emerald CrackE3 6a ***60
59Esmereldaf6A 6
60Diamond LifeE5 6b * 
61PearlsE2 5c **125
62Double Cave ClimbVD 4a 24
63Capstone ChimneyVD 4a 4
64The ArÍteVS 4c 3
65Dead Tree Crack
-
HS 4b 5
66Dead Tree Ridge
-
VD 2
 Vibrio Area 
68High in the Thin Cold AirHVS 5a 1
69Step ButtressHVD *30
70Good VibrationsE2 5c *1
71VibrioE1 5b **105
72Vibrio DirectE2 6a **43
73Twisted ReachE4 6b *2
74Step Buttress CrackVD 12
75Mark PrettyVD 2
76Broken Buttress ClimbVS 4b *26
77Ladies' Way
-
VD 7
78Choked Flake Climb
-
HD 8
 Oak Tree Climb 
80NoserVS 4c *11
81Thin AirVS 4c 2
82The Zigzag FinishHS 4b *8
83Oak Tree ClimbS 4a 12
84The Road to DomestosVS 4c 1
85Shut Your MouthE2 5c  
86I Don't Know What My Mouth Was Saying
-
E1 5b  
87Oak Tree Recess
-
D 1
88Skylight Gullies
-
M 6
89O'Reilly's StaircaseS 4a *13
90Calypso CrackHVD 4a 5
 Emperor Buttress 
92Emperor Flake ClimbVD **177
93Emperor Flake Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4c 4
94Emperor CrackVS 4c *103
95The TyrantE2 5c 8
96Desperotf7A+ **34
97DespotE1 5c *55
98Empress CrackS 4b **118
99Princess CrackD 11
100Prince's CrackHS 4b **93
101Up the EstablishmentE1 5b *48
102Anarchist's ArÍteVS 4c *60
103Emperor's StruggleS 4a *21
104Doctor's Doddle
-
VS 5a 4
105Holly Tree ArÍteS 4a 3
106The Republican Tour
-
HS 4b * 
107The Royal Tour
-
HS 1
 Jerk Buttress 
109Lateral Thinking
-
HVS 5b  
110Chatmandu
-
E1 5c *1
111Some Jerk on TVE1 5b *6
112Weanie Meanie
-
E4 6c  

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