55m, 2 pitches.
The Pretender lies on the buttress to the right of The Great Chimney and is, over-all, 55m-long.
The first pitch climbs the lower buttress via steep ice steps, leading to a large shelf below a very steep wall. The wall is split by a wide chimney-crack low down, somewhat reminiscent of Darth Vader, and goes into a very steep wide crack with a thin overhanging recess running right into an overhanging finish.
The main pitch is approximately 25 metres long and very sustained with loads of tech 7, 8, and a few moves of 9. Knee bar rests, head jams and shoulder jams are available. The main pitch is very well protected by a good rack of cams up to Number 4 and a good selection of wires.
The first pitch climbs the lower buttress via steep ice steps, leading to a large shelf below a very steep wall. The wall is split by a wide chimney-crack low down, somewhat reminiscent of Darth Vader, and goes into a very steep wide crack with a thin overhanging recess running right into an overhanging finish.
The main pitch is approximately 25 metres long and very sustained with loads of tech 7, 8, and a few moves of 9. Knee bar rests, head jams and shoulder jams are available. The main pitch is very well protected by a good rack of cams up to Number 4 and a good selection of wires.
Nick Bullock, Andy Turner, Bruce Poll 17/Feb/2011.
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Route of Interest
Mistral (Winter)
Grade: VII 7 ***
(Beinn Eighe)