Rockfax Description
Often started via Sail Buttress but the direct start up the thin crack improves the experience. Climb the crack, move left to the ledge then step up and right again to reach a good flake. Climb through the bulge by a bold high step to reach the upper slab. © Rockfax
FA. Len Millsom 1963.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Climb like a rodent
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Richardlake | 16 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: This felt more E1 to me. I'm 5'7 so it felt very reachy and balancy - falling from the crux move would be very scary and potentially painful. | ||
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βeta: This felt more E1 to me. I'm 5'7 so it felt very reachy and balancy - falling from the crux move would be very scary and potentially painful. |
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roberto18 | 14 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: found the route brillant. It was given VS 4C in nunns old guide. I managed the reach ok and I'm 5'8. I'd have given it solid HVS 5a.Its only a one move wonder. also my dad found it easy and he is old and unflexible. | βeta? | |
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βeta: found the route brillant. It was given VS 4C in nunns old guide. I managed the reach ok and I'm 5'8. I'd have given it solid HVS 5a.Its only a one move wonder. also my dad found it easy and he is old and unflexible. |
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HimTiggins | 6 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Not that reachy (I'm on the short side of 5'9) and well protected with a size 1.5 cam in the break to the left and a size 5 nut in the bottom of the flake crack. Grab the flake crack, get your feet high and grab the good sloper - one 5a move with good gear, though the fall would be onto the ledge, so bog standard HVS 5a for me ... | ||
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βeta: Not that reachy (I'm on the short side of 5'9) and well protected with a size 1.5 cam in the break to the left and a size 5 nut in the bottom of the flake crack. Grab the flake crack, get your feet high and grab the good sloper - one 5a move with good gear, though the fall would be onto the ledge, so bog standard HVS 5a for me ... |
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Pythonist | 19 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Off-balance, but relatively easy, 5b move. I got gear in the horizontal breaks, and it felt soft E1-ish, but I would believe that with gear in the flake, it would be more like HVS. Definitely start up Amazing Grace. | ||
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βeta: Off-balance, but relatively easy, 5b move. I got gear in the horizontal breaks, and it felt soft E1-ish, but I would believe that with gear in the flake, it would be more like HVS. Definitely start up Amazing Grace. |
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Glen | 21 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: Much easier than Orpheus Wall...... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Much easier than Orpheus Wall...... |
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RichardMc | 18 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: It was VS 4c when I led it ;-) | βeta? | |
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βeta: It was VS 4c when I led it ;-) |
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Owen W-G | 6 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Maybe it was because I led this straight after Orpheus Wall but it felt ridiculously easy at E1. Fair enough, if you do fall off you have a ledge under you, but IMO the crux was about as hard as on Topsail and you do have gear by your head when you set off to do the move. VS could be uncharitable, so soft-touch HVS at best. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maybe it was because I led this straight after Orpheus Wall but it felt ridiculously easy at E1. Fair enough, if you do fall off you have a ledge under you, but IMO the crux was about as hard as on Topsail and you do have gear by your head when you set off to do the move. VS could be uncharitable, so soft-touch HVS at best. |
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leon | 5 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: are you sure this is vs 5a owen? i know several people that have broken their ankles after falling off the crux and hitting the ledge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: are you sure this is vs 5a owen? i know several people that have broken their ankles after falling off the crux and hitting the ledge. |
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Owen W-G | 5 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: E1? Very well protected 5a move, VDiff padding thereafter. VS 5a in my book. A doddle. | βeta? | |
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βeta: E1? Very well protected 5a move, VDiff padding thereafter. VS 5a in my book. A doddle. |
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Alex Mason | 13 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: adam and steve u are muppets the grade is e1 so if it felt e1 thats probably because it is so it is easier for tall people thus the grade is not height dependent | βeta? | |
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βeta: adam and steve u are muppets the grade is e1 so if it felt e1 thats probably because it is so it is easier for tall people thus the grade is not height dependent |
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MNA123 | 12 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: My first E1 and fair enough the bold reach is a bit bold but a couple of good friends in the break below the flake do the trick for gear. no gear after that but the tops a piece of piss anyway. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first E1 and fair enough the bold reach is a bit bold but a couple of good friends in the break below the flake do the trick for gear. no gear after that but the tops a piece of piss anyway. |
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andy newton | 25 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: A nice route which is extremly reach dependant, being short the crux was very hard, definitely in at E1 5b | βeta? | |
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βeta: A nice route which is extremly reach dependant, being short the crux was very hard, definitely in at E1 5b |
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Ram MkiV | 9 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: thought it worthy of E1 because of the fall out zone as mentioned - i couldn't get any worthwhile gear in the 'blindish' flake. also felt towards the upper end of 5b to me and very reach dependent? | βeta? | |
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βeta: thought it worthy of E1 because of the fall out zone as mentioned - i couldn't get any worthwhile gear in the 'blindish' flake. also felt towards the upper end of 5b to me and very reach dependent? |
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The Pylon King | 20 Oct, 2002 |
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βeta: Excellent route (esp if started up the groove to the right, making it an independant line) 3 stars for Birchen although definately a contender for E0 5b! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route (esp if started up the groove to the right, making it an independant line) 3 stars for Birchen although definately a contender for E0 5b! |
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The Grist | 23 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Easiest E1 I've ever done (not a bad thing!). But an alien helps. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easiest E1 I've ever done (not a bad thing!). But an alien helps. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Curbar Edge)