Rockfax Description
The thinner line of cracks on the right-hand side of the slab is the equal of its better known neighbour, but a good deal harder. Start 5m right of the start of Sacre Coeur at a thin crack. Take the crack to a small overlap. Move up and follow thin technical cracks with difficulty to a better crack on the right. Continue up this crack and finish up another to gain the summit of the rock. © Rockfax
Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Katiek | 10 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Super technical made harder by being rather wet! But such brilliant climbing. Had to deploy full gecko mode. Felt like it was mainly self belief that held me on the wall! Brass offsets very helpful for the traverse which was tricky if you’re on the short side. Felt very engaged throughout, hardest I’ve tried on an E3 for a while and my feet were on fire! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Super technical made harder by being rather wet! But such brilliant climbing. Had to deploy full gecko mode. Felt like it was mainly self belief that held me on the wall! Brass offsets very helpful for the traverse which was tricky if you’re on the short side. Felt very engaged throughout, hardest I’ve tried on an E3 for a while and my feet were on fire! |
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Misha | 27 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Kk kno | ||
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βeta: Kk kno |
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Trickyw | 29 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Lundy)