The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An exposed second pitch. Start below a left-facing corner-crack.
1) 5b, 18m. Pass a roof and follow the crack until it is possible to break right and climb a corner. Step left onto a hanging boulder then move up and right to follow a crack to the faultline.
2) 5c, 20m. Move up left and climb a corner to a roof. Go over on jugs and up to another roof. Pass this then move right to a groove. © Rockfax
FA. Nigel Coe, Tim Dunsby 08/Dec/1984.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 30 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: 1st pitch felt harder than 5a. belay is not easy to arrange as some of the rock is very soft and sandy. on 2nd pitch the rock is better; getting through 1st roof is steady 5b but after getting your feet onto its lip to getting beyond the 2nd roof is steady 5c all the way. the crux moves over the 2nd roof are not obvious and take a bit of thought. the peg below the 2nd roof is still there but, as usual, i wouldn't trust it. there's a good cam placement under the 2nd roof near a semi-rest but between that and the stakes at the top all i found was a dodgy number 1 wire. don't let that put you off though, it's worth doing! | ||
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βeta: 1st pitch felt harder than 5a. belay is not easy to arrange as some of the rock is very soft and sandy. on 2nd pitch the rock is better; getting through 1st roof is steady 5b but after getting your feet onto its lip to getting beyond the 2nd roof is steady 5c all the way. the crux moves over the 2nd roof are not obvious and take a bit of thought. the peg below the 2nd roof is still there but, as usual, i wouldn't trust it. there's a good cam placement under the 2nd roof near a semi-rest but between that and the stakes at the top all i found was a dodgy number 1 wire. don't let that put you off though, it's worth doing! |
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daveycrocket | 26 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: is it right that the crux peg has gone ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: is it right that the crux peg has gone ? |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)