UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 30/04/2021  

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Rockfax Description
A novel problem through the overhanging nose. Starting on low holds under the roof, follow jugs along the lip of the boulder, to finish up the flying snout (the flake in the middle of the face is out). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Make a hard move to get started off the obvious jug (sitting), reaching good holds up and right then run along the underside of the boulder until the nose can be mounted.

Matt Cooper, Jason Maddick.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Devon Bouldering Cover
Devon Bouldering (2024)
Rockfax
By Dave Henderson, Ben Stokes
Dartmoor Cover
Dartmoor (2017)
The Climbers' Club
By James Clapham
Guidebook correction for this climb
4 users have this on their wishlist

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High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
Votes cast 4
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Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracked Boulder Slab

Grade: f6A ***
(Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor)

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