UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
Start from the lowest break (without using the block for feet),gain the jug and then easier moves to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Yellow Submarine is the right hand line on the Sub Boulder starting on lowest break, make a hard move for the obvious jug then move through the much easier ledges to finish. No use of the foot block.

Reece Wotton 15/May/2014.

Feedback

User Date Notes
granticus 17 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: To get start moves sorted before trying Red October. Big first move, rolled over with the right hand.
Show beta
βeta: To get start moves sorted before trying Red October. Big first move, rolled over with the right hand.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
West Face

Grade: f6B ***
(Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor)

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