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3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
P1 5a (E1?) Start on ledges on the left side of the big cave. Move left onto the wall via a spike. Follow a slightly rightward slanting line up faint grooves and cracks with hard one gear of dubious quality. The old peg belay is out left but a half decent (only half) belay can be made at a slim ledge up right beside the silver dollar.
P2 4c (XS?) Climb the rightside of the silver dollar before traversing left to some reasonable gear on the rib. Whilst an excursion way out left allows some poor large cams to be placed don't expect to see any decent gear for 30m to the loose top-out!
Description by Kafozalem
P2 4c (XS?) Climb the rightside of the silver dollar before traversing left to some reasonable gear on the rib. Whilst an excursion way out left allows some poor large cams to be placed don't expect to see any decent gear for 30m to the loose top-out!
Description by Kafozalem
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Route of Interest
Saxon
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)