A tremendous climb that follows a subtle line of weakness up the smooth looking main face. The climb is both intimidating and amenable in equal measures. Start next to the house sized boulder.Boulder up to the break (either using the crack between the boulder and the wall, or the wall just to the left of the boulder). Move along the break to a niche. Carry on leftwards up a crack until moves straight up gain good holds at the start of a shallow left leading depression. Follow this until a move up reaches a horizontal finger-crack. Move right and climb direct to a flake belay. Scramble off left. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Jack Porteous||28/Jul||Lead O/S|
|tom s g||22/Jul||Lead O/S||
|Rachel Somerville||28/May||Lead O/S||
|Sam Simpson||25/May||AltLd O/S|
|Jelly Mould Surfer||13/May||Lead O/S||
A fantastic climb. Especially enjoyed the traverse. I did the trad line, but in one pitch. Boldering out the start was hard, I did the Rockdancer start
|Gentleman Joe||07/Apr||2nd O/S||
Really awesome climb, nicely technical with a bit of commitment required from it being an ab.-in sea cliff. Really cool climbing. Rock was odd. Almost like limestone with strange triangular chunks missing that made awesome jugs.
Deserving of it's classic status.. looks awesome from the other side of the zawn, beautifully featured when actually on it... gear can be sparse, but very happy running it out for big sections.
Top short pitch from hanging belay on original line
Great route, on a great 'slab'. Guidebook is right, intimidating, but amenable. The rock makes good positive holds, gear is good, if sometimes a tad spaced.
|Wendy Watthews||23/Mar||2nd rpt|
Epic. Exciting ab in to heavy seas. Wet start. Simon in a hurry to get me off the deck as waves crashing overhead. He set up belay off route. Then second pitch in growing dark. I had to miss out the hand traverse to exit by the ad station so we could make it out before dark. Wow.
In one pitch with a lot of rope drag
With direct finish.
Certainly the best route I've ever done. The ab in to the atmospheric small cove is intimidating, as is looking down at the flat looking wall. Brilliant moves!
(Very) direct finish.
John C, Steve C
Wonderful lead by Andrea. Very good rock, the protection is all there but they can be difficult to see from below.
Brilliant, absorbing climb.
What a brilliant climb. Great holds and gear.
|Alex Mason||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Had to full-on aid the first move due to height, great route.
Andy, Alex Burns
Spike R, Tim C
|Ian Stirrups||?/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Did as two pitches, belaying at end of ramp gained from top of huge boulder. Direct finish.
Dave Moore, Sue
|Neil D||19/May/14||Lead O/S|
|Jack J Keogan||18/May/14||Lead O/S||
|Sophie Nunn||07/May/14||Lead O/S|
3 pitches(!), small cams useful. Windy with the odd drop of rain. Started to rain properly just as I pulled over the top. Finished up the diagonal crack that rises from half way along the traverse. Would have been much better to avoid the upper stance which is shite - ended up doing a hanging stance next to it
|Lumbering Oaf||20/Apr/14||2nd O/S||
Wonderful rock, great climb.
|Rowan Mitchell||19/Apr/14||2nd O/S||
Chris OMC, Steve OMC
Looked far more intimidating than it was, must come back and lead this one. Amazing crag.
wouldnt call this sustained.rests available all the way.decent gear,bags of holds,amazing climb all the same.led main pitch with traverse.sam finished off
Probably one of the best routes I have ever done, beautiful climb. :-)
Fantastic. Got to be one of the best pitches of the grade around.
|Tom Livingstone||04/Aug/13||2nd β|
|Alex the Alex||?/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Dream climb. Sustained, fly-on-the-wall. but sharp and positive all the way. beautiful.
on shunt, nice steady
International Meet Guest
|Simon Alden||15/May/13||Lead O/S||
BMC international meet
|Ed morris||27/Apr/13||2nd O/S||
Cold fingers. Led very short p2
Left helmet in the car. Felt naked and vulnerable, but enjoyed the route nevertheless. Didn't occur to me to do it in one pitch, so belayed in the corner after the hand traverse.
Fiona McFarlane, Robert Dufton
|Fiona McFarlane||?/Mar/13||Lead O/S||
Hard first couple of moves, especially in the damp, but the rest is glorious and easy for HVS
Dave proctor, Robert Dufton
|Dan Lane||??/2013||Lead O/S||
Ace! Great route and I didn't find it too hard, though the rain shower near the bottom was a little worrying.
|Owen W-G||28/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
Paddy Mitton, Alex Burns
|Jim Slater||01/Jul/12||Lead O/S|
In one pitch with direct finish, awesome route, good gear if your eyes are open, definitely 5a, why has this been downgraded???
|mike hooper||23/Jun/12||2nd O/S||
|James Oswald||19/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Very nice, pretty easy for HVS though.
Good route. Hvs 5a.
|The Ivanator||06/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Fantastic climb, missed a few gear opportunities and ended up with a spicy run out, all good when I got a bomber cam in the horizontal break near the top. Led in one pitch with the direct finish.
|mike hooper||26/May/12||2nd O/S||
got some smaller gear to find these small cracks
Did in single pitch. Was good, but managed to unnerve myself by not finding much good gear in the middle section
Chris Lodge, Sean Corbett
direct finish, made a really nice change from the granite
|Ian JL||??/2012||Lead O/S|
Lead pitch 1(just up to the ledge). Very nice climb, gear and holds keep coming, but it doesn't look like it from below.
|Graeme Hammond||24/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
As one pitch with the direct finish as per the west country climbs guide. one of the best climbs I've ever done?
|Becky E||24/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
With direct finish. Very pleased that I could do the steep bouldery start moves. Really enjoyed the rest.
Brilliant climbing. Split it into two pitches resulting in mega faff sorting out the ropes!
|Cheese Monkey||28/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
great lead from phil. very steady route with good gear and loads of holds. classic (hardish) VS deserving it's status.
|jon bradley||23/Jun/11||Lead rpt||
Awesome route. Whoever voted for it to get two stars needs their head examined
Best route of the week. Short jump for the first good hold!
|Mike Kiss||05/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
Scary blank looking face two thirds of the way up, but there is a way up it and it's great
Old man Andy
Jo lead it with the 5a direct start and 5a direct finish. Good route!
Jo B, Doug S
Charles Mason, Paul Bolton
|victim of mathematics||26/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
With direct finish (why wouldn't you?). Totally awesome. Looks impossible even when you're on it, but somehow manages to be always amenable. I heart Pat Littlejohn.
Also really really good.
Lovely route. Well worth the three stars.
|Different Steve||24/Apr/11||Lead rpt|
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||22/Apr/11||Lead||
Did the direct finish. Exciting and high quality line. Positive hand and foot holds all the way with regular jugs. Good gear.
Intimidating to look at but ultimately full of perfect holds with enough gear to keep you safe. First move is a bouldery for the short but the rest is lovely slabby flatties and pockets. Definitely recommended :D
|david morse||17/Sep/10||2nd O/S||
Did p1, Tim Led p2. Easy for the HvS grade, although, it looks harder than it is most of the way up. Good belay on the block. Big sling and a large hex or cam.
|Nel Tindale||28/Aug/10||2nd dog||
|Will Hunt||16/Aug/10||2nd O/S|
|Dave Lacey||14/Aug/10||Lead O/S|
Ian did 1st, I did short top pitch
Nice. Bit run out in the midle of pitch one
Put too much gear in on the first pitch, run out of quick draws and had to down climb to collect some from lower on the route. Belay point doesn't have much protection (apart from a sling around the boulder). Second pitch seemed harder than the grade suggests.
|Tom Last||05/Sep/09||Lead O/S||
Brilliant climb. Did the direct. Middle third was pretty sustained and with crappy gear for the grade. Excellent fun.
Excellent route. If you don't want the excitement of the bouldery start, begin behind the huge block. Then a good idea to belay at the end of the initial traverse and complete the rest of the route in one pitch.
led p1. A better way would be to lrad to the ledge at the start of the route & then combine p1 & 2 in 1 pitch.
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||22/Jul/09||Lead||
First led in 1986
Dee de Mengel
Fab first move onto pitch one, happy to second what followed....One to revisit and lead in 2010
Bloody Brilliant! Only drawback is the amount of traversing so I spent half my time thinking about ropework and not the climbing
|Bobby Gilbert||01/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Wow! A big climb for me! Some great moves!
Amazing climb! Much more amenable than first impressions might suggest. Well worth the walk-in.
Fan-tan-tastic! best HVS i've ever done!
I got the tiny second pitch, I'm going back for the first. Excellent route.
Fantastic main pitch
Looks very unlikely from below but turned out to be plenty of small good positive holds. Awesome exposure. Pretty sustained 4c on your fingers and toes but no really dificult moves.
|Different Steve||17/Apr/06||2nd O/S||
|Rob Oram||13/Jun/05||2nd O/S||
Superb climb, I'm glad we mustered the bottle to do it. It looked really unlikely from below but actually was really steady, good holds and gear in all the right places.
Possibly the finest hard VS climb I've done
|Mark Collins||03/May/02||Lead O/S||
One of my all time favourites. Set off quite late in the afternoon and sneaked this one in. Suberb route. The approach down steep grassy slopes to get to the base of the route is more scary than the climbing.
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||27/Jul/01||2nd O/S||
superb - a must do
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
Lead 2nd pitch
|belay bunny turned bad||??/1998||-|
|craig h||27/Jun/96||Lead O/S||
26th birthday climb.
|whispering nic||?/Aug/91||Lead O/S||
Nice direct finish.
|Nick Rundall||??/1990||Lead O/S|
Fantastic route, really big feel. And there were some "loons" living in disused buses and vans at the top. They watched us do the climb and were spaced out and scared that we might die!
Steve Waite (Little Steve)
|Nic Robinson||06/May/80||Lead O/S|
Mike O'Brien, Mike Morrison