Rockfax Description
The last good route in this area is a serious undertaking. Climb up the right-hand corner of the arch to a foot-ledge near the top. Step up right onto a slab and negotiate a tricky and bold finish. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 08/Feb/1989.
The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AJ007 | 7 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: This is very serious at the grade, not well protected as the guide says. Unless you have micro wires the top is very run out. I almost lost it at the top stepping right from under the roof, I did not want to take that whipper, what a relief when I managed to hold it all together; but I know someone who wasn’t so lucky, fell from the crucial move at the top ripped gear and ended up a few meters from the deck. Any way I suggest removing the comment about good gear because it encourages the less skilled to have a go, and some one may get hurt! | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is very serious at the grade, not well protected as the guide says. Unless you have micro wires the top is very run out. I almost lost it at the top stepping right from under the roof, I did not want to take that whipper, what a relief when I managed to hold it all together; but I know someone who wasn’t so lucky, fell from the crucial move at the top ripped gear and ended up a few meters from the deck. Any way I suggest removing the comment about good gear because it encourages the less skilled to have a go, and some one may get hurt! |
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drcorbasisgod | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: I also saw a guy lob off in the same place as the dodgy handhold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I also saw a guy lob off in the same place as the dodgy handhold. |
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drcorbasisgod | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Not sure about the "good gear" comment in the guide, although I am prepared to accept that I missed something. At the midpoint where you leave the crack and climb to the overhang before stepping out right, there's a loose but (I thought) crucial handhold. This and everything afterwards felt desperate to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure about the "good gear" comment in the guide, although I am prepared to accept that I missed something. At the midpoint where you leave the crack and climb to the overhang before stepping out right, there's a loose but (I thought) crucial handhold. This and everything afterwards felt desperate to me. |
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psicobloc | 1 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Did this route on Sat and now its Monday morning and i am still thinking about it! Hard for the grade but still an awesome route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this route on Sat and now its Monday morning and i am still thinking about it! Hard for the grade but still an awesome route. |
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Owen W-G | 4 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I've not led many HVS's but this felt pretty desperate. The move around the corner was blind and the holds disappointing when you got there. I only just rattled my way to the top by skin of teeth. Some guy who led it after me lobbed spectacularly at the same point and he reckoned he was usually comfortable at the grade. Mostly good gear tho and worth a star for excitement. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I've not led many HVS's but this felt pretty desperate. The move around the corner was blind and the holds disappointing when you got there. I only just rattled my way to the top by skin of teeth. Some guy who led it after me lobbed spectacularly at the same point and he reckoned he was usually comfortable at the grade. Mostly good gear tho and worth a star for excitement. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)