Rockfax Description
An underrated route, but difficult to find in the right conditions. It follows the corner and chimney system up the left side of the face. Only to be climbed after a long period of dry weather.
Start left of the centre of the face, part way up the scree below two parallel corners below a small yellow niche.
1) V+, 25m. Climb a crack to enter the right-hand of the two corners (the left is also possible with similar difficulties).Follow this to a stance at the top.
2) V+, 30m. Climb a crack above then follow the prominent chimney to the right.
3) IV, 35m. Continue up the continuation corner then exit right just beyond a chockstone.
4) IV, 30m. Follow an easy ramp to the right then climb direct, keeping right of the chimney, exiting via a black gully. Continue easily for 10m to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch trad route - 5+,5+,5+,3
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Grade: V+ ***
(Tre Cime)