UKC
30m. Start at the wide crack below the small tree, climb this and pull onto a ledge to gain the slab. Climb the slab via a series of crack lines on good hooks, before traversing right to the small tree at the 2/3 height blank sloping ledge, sustained moves. Gain the wobbly boulder ledge via an awkward mantle round the tree. Step up and left, to either escape on the right or if you are feeling bold traverse left to take on the harder headwall twin crack line before pulling through the boulder roof at the top.

Note: initially graded VI 6/7. But unsure on grading for it being such a short route with no commitment, it certainly merits at least technical 5/6 overall with upper crack finish being technically harder, maybe around tech 7. Take what you will.

Craig Lamb & Findlay Cranston 05/Dec/2012.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Last pitch of a heavily rimed Shadow buttress A
Shadow Buttress A

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)

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