UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Much of the original route Shadrach is no more, with both the chimney and pinnacle now a lot nearer the road. This combination is a good way to reach the old top pitch.
1) 5a 32m. Climb up left over ledges to a scoop and groove to the right of Grim Wall. Climb the groove on the right over a steepening to a small ledge on the right above a roof. Move up again to a flake (this is now Shadrach) and continue up to a ledge below a short blank wall and belay.
2) 5a, 18m. Gain the groove above the rock scar is by moving up and right into it. The climbing is pretty bold and not the VS it used to be. Once in the groove, follow it to the top, moving to the right to gain the top of the crag. © Rockfax

FA. A.Moulam, G.Piggott, D.Thomas 13.5.1951 13/May/1951.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey ArĂȘte

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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