Rockfax Description
A line up the cracks and grooves in the centre of the buttress and well worth a look if Bare blåbær is rammed which it often is! Start below and left of the prominent straight crack that splits three offset overhangs.
1) N4, 30m. A wandering pitch up the slabs, trending leftwards to a belay at the foot of the attractive open groove.
2) N5, 30m. Climb the groove to a stance on the left at its top.
3) N5-, 30m. Climb up and right, then leftwards to a short steep crack splitting the overlap. Continue up the cracks above then move right to a constricted belay in the chimney on the right, at the top of the prominent corner system.
4) N5-, 30m. Climb the chimney past the jammed boulder and follow the groove until the delightful finger-crack in the slab to the left can be reached. Belay well back on a good ledge by a block and tree.
4) N5, 50m. Climb the left-facing grooves to a ledge with blocks.
5) N3, 20m. Easy slabs lead to top of the central gully.
6) N4+, 50m. Follow the groove and then easy slabs all the way rightwards to the belay at the top of Bare blåbær.
Descent - Abseil down Bare blåbær, taking care that the ropes don't jam on the second abseil, and avoiding annoying those who are having their own epics on the way up. © Rockfax
Lofoten Mid Grade Routes , Lofoten 2021
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Grade: n5 ***
(Gandalf)