The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. M.Kann, M.Bengey Aug/2009.
Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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rowanbrandreth | 10 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: The brambles have taken over and the section close to Bad to the Bone is pretty much impassable without a pair of secateurs. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The brambles have taken over and the section close to Bad to the Bone is pretty much impassable without a pair of secateurs. |
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Rhaegalex | 12 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Reasonable sized rock fell off the start, I would suggest avoiding the loose stuff by starting at the base of the cables(Start of Bad to the Bone), and either following them to the cave, or traversing right and climbin the slab to the cave. Very close belay trees at the top | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Reasonable sized rock fell off the start, I would suggest avoiding the loose stuff by starting at the base of the cables(Start of Bad to the Bone), and either following them to the cave, or traversing right and climbin the slab to the cave. Very close belay trees at the top |
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Norman_P_W | 22 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The initial slab may be dirty as it leads to an active cave dig and is having a lot of soil tipped down it. The route can be approached via the start of Bad to the Bone at the same standard. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The initial slab may be dirty as it leads to an active cave dig and is having a lot of soil tipped down it. The route can be approached via the start of Bad to the Bone at the same standard. |
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Norman_P_W | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The route is now clean and well worth doing. The gear is good and it is a nice line. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The route is now clean and well worth doing. The gear is good and it is a nice line. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stoke Lane Quarry)