Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
Follow Osiris to the overhang, then break out through its widest point, thankfully protected by a good thread and an old peg. Finish up easier ground above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb Osiris to the cave, then launch straight through the roof at it's widest point, awesome exposure. Threads in pocket and rusty peg just over lip.
Ticklists
Ultimate E2 ticklist , CUMC Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| badgerjockey | 2 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tat is welded into place presumably from being dogged on, so couldn’t check how good it was. Was fine to place my own thread, if a tad fiddly. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Tat is welded into place presumably from being dogged on, so couldn’t check how good it was. Was fine to place my own thread, if a tad fiddly. |
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| Col Kingshott | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Tat must have been replaced since those comments, as it seemed fine to me. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Tat must have been replaced since those comments, as it seemed fine to me. |
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| Furry Goose | 24 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The in situ thread is pretty poor quality. But is rather hard to replace on lead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The in situ thread is pretty poor quality. But is rather hard to replace on lead. |
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| iainJ | 23 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: In situ tat is well faded and shouldn't be relied on | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: In situ tat is well faded and shouldn't be relied on |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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Dan Dare
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Pennard)