Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
Start directly under the shield of rock. Climb good flake cracks heading right for 3m, then move back left on hidden flakes to gain the right side of the shield of rock and the ledge above. Head up the wall and finish up the corner on the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start 2m right of Thanksgiving, directly below the shield. Climb cracks bearing rightwards for 3m, then continue direct to the right side of the shield. Surmount the shield and continue rightwards up the wall above. Finish up the wide crack in the left side of the bulges. A direct finish through the bulges is worthwhile at E1 5b.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)