UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

35m.

Rockfax Description
A good route that takes on the blank groove.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb steeply up to a belay below the black groove.
2) 6c, 20m. Hard bridging (small wires) gains the top of the groove. Move right and finish up the short headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 15m, 5b. As for Earthly Powers P1.
2) 20m, 6c. Desperate bridging up the corner which Earthly Powers avoids to the right. Small wires are very useful. From the top of the corner, move right to finish up a short steep white headwall.

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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Yellow Hammer

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)

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