UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
The right-hand groove is well bolted. It dries slowly. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
https://dmmclimbing.com/Journal/May-2014/Esoteric-7c-slate-groove

Martin Crook 2014.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Butel 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose and suspect holds ready to go. Worth checking.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose and suspect holds ready to go. Worth checking.

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Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 6c ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)

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