Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The original slate route that failed to ignite much interest. It tends to avoid any real climbing, but is something of an adventure. Start at the base of a groove just right of the top of the scree cone.
1) 4c. 50m. Ascend the groove until forced left to a ledge on the arete. What remains of a manky peg and a wire offer some solace before you head left along the fault-line passing the perched block. This used to be the belay, but there is a better, less dangerous one around the left edge of the slab.
2) 13m. Scramble up the scree to a belay below the final slab.
3) 4c, 24m. Head up the middle of the slab to gain the a ledge. Move left and then back right before gaining the top of the slab. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Scratch Arete
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))