The site is managed by Shropshire and Montgomery Wildlife Trusts and managed as a nature reserve. Please pay attention to the following: - Climbing is not allowed in the Northern Quarry or on Asterley Rocks. Organised groups wishing to use 'Cul de Sac' quarry - please contact the Red Ridge Centre first to avoid overcrowding. Tel (01938) 810821. The development of additional new routes may jeopardise the existing access arrangements - please contact the BMC for futher details.
There is an agreement between Shropshire Wildlife Trust, Montgomery Wildlife Trust and the British Mountaineering Council to allow individual recreational climbers and club members to rock climb on the rocks at Llanymynech. Nothing in the agreement is legally binding; however failure by climbers to follow these guidelines could lead to a permanent restriction on climbing at the whole site.The Wildlife Trusts welcomes visitors onto the nature reserve to explore and enjoy at close hand the spectacle of the cliffs and the wildlife this area supports.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Keep an eye open for signs detailing the nesting restriction in the Red Wall area. Currently all routes on Foreigner Wall are permanently restricted. Seasonal Restrictions apply to all routes on Red Walls from 1 March to 30 June.
Rockfax Description
A great pitch that weaves its way up the centre of the face. The climbing is sustained, route finding intricate, and the route is high in the grade. Start on the highest point of the earth mound then step left onto a narrow ledge and make a steep move to get established on the wall. Climb up until a horizontal traverse right, with feet level with a low peg (on Bastard) can be made, to beneath a line of pockets. Climb these, past an old thread, to a break. Continue direct up the thin wall to a more broken band of rock. Traverse left to a corner and climb this to its top. Move up the next short wall before hand traversing right to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax
FA. G.Caine, E.Austrums 4.10.70. Direct start Doug Kerr, S.Grove 25.7.87 04/Oct/1970.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 3 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seconded this. A very big route with plenty of interest and quite a few cruxes packed into the right hand crack. |
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jim jones | 17 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't think there was much difference between this & Black Bastard, (apart from the loose traverse), & probably worth E2 for seriousness. |
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JMarkW | 15 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required. Fantastic views from the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good outing! Some loose rock and sandy breaks in places, but the rock is good where it counts. Loads of gear - take plenty, although I wouldn't want to fall on the thread. Not particuarly high in the grade, just some thought about route finding and ropework required. Fantastic views from the top. |
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