Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
Start from the back of the huge chimney at very low spring tide only. Climb the right-hand chimney (possible belay if the tide threatens). Move into the left-hand chimney and climb it, moving left below the roof onto the front face. Finish up the corner above and right. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 14/Sep/2008.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chambers81 | 18 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: If you hate yourself this is the route for you. If not, have some pride, there are 3 star climbs all around you. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you hate yourself this is the route for you. If not, have some pride, there are 3 star climbs all around you. |
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| Small and weak | 18 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Needs a really low tide to access the beach | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Needs a really low tide to access the beach |
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Galactic Co-ordinator
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)