Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.
No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.
All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted.
Dates: 25 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June.
An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site.
Rockfax Description
A big first roof and more lurking above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An old 'E3 6a' now retro-bolted.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
string arms | 10 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I did an fa somewhere near here in the early nineties at E3 or soft E4 with a cam and a hand drilled 8mm bolt as the only gear. The bolt soon rotted away and the line became lost in time. Named Amadeus. It could well be this! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I did an fa somewhere near here in the early nineties at E3 or soft E4 with a cam and a hand drilled 8mm bolt as the only gear. The bolt soon rotted away and the line became lost in time. Named Amadeus. It could well be this! |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lower Pen Trwyn)