Rockfax Description
Enjoyable and varied climbing on good rock. There are equipped belays and some pegs on route.
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61. There are equipped abseil stations along the route, but this method of descent is not recommended as they follow the line of the ascent, which can be problematic for other parties.
1) II, 25m. Follow a grassy ledge up and right of the gully to a pegged stance.
2) IV, 20m. Climb a vegetated slab direct, follow a crack over a ledge and continue to a stance in a small niche.
3) IV, 35m. Move left out of the niche and climb the left-hand of two parallel cracks towards a roof. Avoid this on its left and continue more easily to a comfortable stance.
4) III+, 25m. Climb a ramp on the left.
5) IV+, 35m. Follow a grassy crack trending right, move left past a bulge and climb a corner to a stance on the right.
6) VI-, 25m. Move left and climb a flake then climb the well-pegged corner, the crux of which is short but steep, then exit right to the belay.
7) IV+, 15m. Step a few metres right then climb a crack direct to a stance below the prominent yellow roof.
8) IV+, 40m. Make an enjoyable traverse right under the roof then climb a crack to reach the final chimney. Climb this more easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes a line to the right of Rossi Tomasi. VI- or V A0
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
ClimbingNut | 6 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: First few pitches are pretty uninspiring, but gets way better after that. We struggled on the start of p3, went up and left from the belay bolt, staying about 1m left of the threaded peg, climbing the (single) crack. This felt a bit hard. I also extended p6 all the way up the crack, skipping the belay after the section which can be aided - which was great exposed jamming! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First few pitches are pretty uninspiring, but gets way better after that. We struggled on the start of p3, went up and left from the belay bolt, staying about 1m left of the threaded peg, climbing the (single) crack. This felt a bit hard. I also extended p6 all the way up the crack, skipping the belay after the section which can be aided - which was great exposed jamming! |
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Grade: VI- 5a ***
(Il Castelletto de Tofane)