No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Great climbing up the diagonal line with a sting in the tail.
1) 4c, 10m. Traverse out across the shelf to a wide crack. Climb this on good holds to a belay at the start of the ramp.
2) 5a, 25m. Move up the ramp, which is generally slabby and often climbed near the arete on the right, until you reach the base of the steeper final corner-crack. Battle your way up this - sustained all the way. Belays are found back from the edge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4c, 5a
North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Llidberis , North Wales isnt just slate apparently
User | Date | Notes | ||
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hpm2105 | 20 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Top pitch very good. 3* in my book. Felt soft for HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top pitch very good. 3* in my book. Felt soft for HVS. |
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Emily-Cooper | 28 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Lead P2 crack | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead P2 crack |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)