The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The arete climbed using the crack of Nonsuch. Originally climbed as an eliminate without the crack and gear placed from the route at E6 6c. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
ArĂȘte between Altar Crack and Nonsuch. Gear placed in both these routes as high as can be reached from under the roof. Climbed on its right-hand side eliminating the crack of Nonsuch gives the best climbing but can also be climbed using the crack for hands and gear at around E4 6b.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Dan Arkle | 8 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely bit of rock and great moves. It only really makes sense to use a hand in nonsuch to get over roof, then tackle the arete. Worth a star this way. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lovely bit of rock and great moves. It only really makes sense to use a hand in nonsuch to get over roof, then tackle the arete. Worth a star this way. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Millstone Edge)