These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jeopardise this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.
Rockfax Description
Climb the end of the buttress as a sort of prow, eliminating the wedged block and the sidewall. After a tricky setup a left hand high sloper is gained, then aim for the big tooth jug up right. Better than it looks, and can be notched up into the 7s if you stay off any holds used on Crystal. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Eliminate the side wall and trapped block. Using the big crack in the wall for right hand and the holds of crystal for the left move up towards the overhanging roof, using a heel hook to finish on the sharks tooth.
Route name changed (Correcting spelling of the name for app).
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Grade: f6C+ ***
(Roche Abbey)