UKC Logbook - 'Oma Sus'

120m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route with a fine top pitch. Start in the gully at the name.
1) 4a, 26m. Take the line of threads and bolts to a stance.
2) 3, 25m. Continue up slabs (easy but very little gear) to the mid-height ledge.
3) 4a, 28m. Climb up for 4m then trend rightwards up the weakness to a stance on the abseil line.
4) 5a, 25m. Follow the line of the rightward-trending ramp with well-spaced bolt protection and great positions. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A route with a fine top pitch. Start in the gully at the name.
1) 4, 26m. Take the line of threads and bolts to a good stance.
2) 3, 34m. Continue up slabs (threads) to the mid-height ledge.
3) 4, 30m. Up for 4m then trend rightwards up the weakness.
4) 5, 30m. Follow the line of the rightward-trending ramp with well-spaced bolt protection and great positions.

Best to abseil (2 pitches) down Ana/Lofi etc and don't attempt to abseil back down the traverse on pitch 4

FA. Hannelore and Kurt Krentzenbeck 2000s Equipped by Horst Urban. 2005.

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User	Date		Notes
StefanB	6 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: The last two pitches are amazing! The final pitch is scarier to second than to lead, as there is scope for a big pendulum, if falling off the crux move.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The last two pitches are amazing! The final pitch is scarier to second than to lead, as there is scope for a big pendulum, if falling off the crux move.