Restricted Access
The previous owner who had a history of violent altercations with climbers has passed away. The attitude of the current occupiers towards access for climbing is not known. If climbers are asked to leave or are challenged for being on the cliff please contact the BMC with details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal restrictions apply across the whole crag.
32m, 2 pitches.
The next zawn round to the east of smurfs zawn.
East side of the zawn
Either abseil in or descend the grassy depression and make a low tide and probably wet traverse in.
From various possible stances at the base of the large triangular buttress feature take a vague rightward slating groove to the large sloping ledge.
Possible belay. From the left hand end of the ledge take the worrying looking blocky corner to the grassy slope.
Possible belay. At the right hand end of the grass take the rightward slanting grooves and headwall above.
Belay from the spiked bluffs jutting out and/or the good fence posts well back.
East side of the zawn
Either abseil in or descend the grassy depression and make a low tide and probably wet traverse in.
From various possible stances at the base of the large triangular buttress feature take a vague rightward slating groove to the large sloping ledge.
Possible belay. From the left hand end of the ledge take the worrying looking blocky corner to the grassy slope.
Possible belay. At the right hand end of the grass take the rightward slanting grooves and headwall above.
Belay from the spiked bluffs jutting out and/or the good fence posts well back.
James Cootes Sep/2020.
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Route of Interest
The Concrete Chimney
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)