Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
This route isn't technically very hard, or badly protected, it is just extremely steep. From the first ledge on War Crime, climb a steep graunchy crack into a large triangular niche. Swing left out of the niche onto a steep wall. Climb this on very good holds until you are forced around the arete on the right. The slab above leads more easily to a block strewn ledge. Finish up the groove above in a good position. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, S.Findlay 14/Aug/1982.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Pumparama. A good test of that climbing wall fitness | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pumparama. A good test of that climbing wall fitness |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Huntsman's Leap)